Steering stem trouble

[HavocWreaker]

If anyone has worked with the steering stem they will notice that there is a rubber washer between the adjuster nut (bottom) and the lock nut (top) how can you ever "lock" the nuts together if there is a rubber washer between them?

It seems that with the whole assembly (locking clip, top nut, rubber washer, bottom nut) It works just like one single large nut, and loosens on a dime. Doesn't make any sense to me.

Anyone have any insight as to why it was designed like this?
Can I do away with the rubber washer safely? Or am I missing something that makes it vital to the assembly?

 

[tjhess74]

the two nuts shouldnt be locked together. the bottom nut keeps the proper preload on the stem bearing. the top nut absorbs the torque from the stem nut/top clamp, and prevents that torque from being transferred to the bottom nut. hence, the rubber isolator.

tighten the top nut until the rubber is firm against the bottom nut, then rotate the top nut so the castle depressions line up, then make sure the claw washer keeps them in line.

this is the first design that i have seen the rubber isolator, but then again, this is my first yamaha. on other bikes, i make sure the top nut is loose, hovering just above the bottom nut.

 

[novaks47]

this is the first design that i have seen the rubber isolator, but then again, this is my first yamaha. on other bikes, i make sure the top nut is loose, hovering just above the bottom nut.

That's because this the old school way of doing it. Even the round bearings are the old way of doing it. They just don't last long. If you search around, you'll see a few threads where people converted to tapered bearings. I was honestly surprised to see this on a newer sport-type bike. I'd expect this on my TW, as the whole bike is just old design, but on a newer bike, I think it's a little silly.

 

[abraxas]

I had the same query. The problem is that the rubber allows the nuts to loosten, resutling in the steering head starting to knock every time i hit brakes or a bump.

I've removed the rubber, as it got squuezed out the side anyway. Haven't had any noticable side effects yet, but i'm looking for a similr rubber to replace it with, one that doesn't get squeezed out.

 

[fazil]

I've removed the rubber too while i was changing the bearings to tapered ones. It was about 1.5 years and 5000 miles ago.
It didn't make any issue.

 

[tjhess74]

abra, your bottom nut shouldnt get looser. it is held in place by the claw washer that is held in place by the top nut. the top nut should be held in place by the torque forcing down on the top triple clamp.

i replaced my rollers with tapered ones from all balls. ALOT of newer bikes are coming from the factory with roller bearings. after a little research online, i too discovered that is the way it used to be done a long time ago. not sure why they went back to it, as nova stated.

if you do switch to tapered bearings, note that the preload torque value from the manual will no longer apply. tapered bearings require a fraction of the torque that roller bearings do.

 

[novaks47]

They're switching back because the old style bearings are cheaper. All the top moto companies are trying to save every penny they can on production and parts, due to shrinking sales, especially here in the US. I'm sure it helps bring more people in more often into the dealerships to have them replaced too, which helps everyone in the chain to make some cash. I don't mind them cheaping out on certain things like tires, chains, and grips, but I really wish they wouldn't cheap out on something like the stem bearings. Such a pain in the neck!

 

[chrisdot1]

whats the best way to keep bike standing whilst front end removal, i need to do this bearing job, got tapered ones and seals for 30 quid comin.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

whats the best way to keep bike standing whilst front end removal, i need to do this bearing job, got tapered ones and seals for 30 quid comin.

Center stand, then support the lower header (closer to the front, flat end ) with a short piece of 2x4 with a sizzor jack. It'll pick the front end right up and its steady... (you probably have a sizzor jack with the spare tire in your car)

 

[04fizzer]

whats the best way to keep bike standing whilst front end removal, i need to do this bearing job, got tapered ones and seals for 30 quid comin.

I used the center stand, and weighted down the back end. The idea of using the headers to support the bike made me nervous.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I used the center stand, and weighted down the back end. The idea of using the headers to support the bike made me nervous.

I used this method on my 2004 FJR for the last 6 years, and last 3 years on my 07 FZ6... the header is plenty strong enough and stable...

I, personally wouldn't trust a weight possibly falling off the back and the bike crashing forward, but to each his own...

I would not use a hydralic jack, should it leak down, so does the bike... A mechanical sissor jack won't fail... There might be 50 lbs on it..

 

[04fizzer]

I used this method on my 2004 FJR for the last 6 years, and last 3 years on my 07 FZ6... the header is plenty strong enough and stable...

I, personally wouldn't trust a weight possibly falling off the back and the bike crashing forward, but to each his own...

I would not use a hydralic jack, should it leak down, so does the bike... A mechanical sissor jack won't fail... There might be 50 lbs on it..

Obviously you have to be smart about how you do it. Just setting a weight on the seat's not the way to do it. I used a 2x4 through the back wheel and a couple cinder blocks as weight. Much more secure and less likely to fall.