Simple Steps To Replace Rear Brake Pads :-)

[FinalImpact]

Re: Replace Rear Brake Pads, Don't let old fluid return to MC!!!

So, if rebuilding the brake caliper (it's disconnected fully from the bike), zip tying the hand lever to the grip will STOP ALL fluid in the lines from bleeding out?

Does that apply to ABS equipped systems as well??

It stops air from entering and equalizing the pressure so, yes - IME it stops it from emptying the reservoir in most cases. I wouldn't say its 100% drip free as we can't stop gravity! :thumbup:

As for ABS systems; also true as they act the same until the ABS unit is in diagnostic mode and/or activated by its ABS ECU.

FWIW: I usually remove fluid from the reservoir with a syringe as it takes many strokes to pump it through. That and adding new fluid just makes a larger volume of contaminated fluid that must be pumped out.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Replace Rear Brake Pads, Don't let old fluid return to MC!!!

It stops air from entering and equalizing the pressure so, yes - IME it stops it from emptying the reservoir in most cases. I wouldn't say its 100% drip free as we can't stop gravity!

Interesting and very helpfull!! If it keeps the MC from running dry, that's the main PIA...

I can rebuild the 4 piston caliper pots MUCH faster than it takes me to bleed ALL the air out of a dry system (besides going thru two bottle of DOT 4). That's with using a profession grade Mity Vac AND using standard bleeding procedures with two separate, straight (no loop) SS lines direct to the calipers..

Mine won't need a re-build for a couple of years yet, but I'll keep that in mind.

Perhaps a member rebuilding his can try it and see how well it works too. I'll certainly bring it up when a new caliper rebuild thread comes up...

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Replace Rear Brake Pads, Don't let old fluid return to MC!!!

Interesting and very helpfull!! If it keeps the MC from running dry, that's the main PIA...

I can rebuild the 4 piston caliper pots MUCH faster than it takes me to bleed ALL the air out of a dry system (besides going thru two bottle of DOT 4). That's with using a profession grade Mity Vac AND using standard bleeding procedures with two separate, straight (no loop) SS lines direct to the calipers..

Mine won't need a re-build for a couple of years yet, but I'll keep that in mind.

Perhaps a member rebuilding his can try it and see how well it works too. I'll certainly bring it up when a new caliper rebuild thread comes up...

FWIW: When installing new lines or after caliper rebuild, a 50cc syringe is very inexpensive and easily obtainable.
Open ONE bleeder, fill the reservoir, connect syringe to open bleeder and give it a pull. Its direct action will fill the lines and caliper. Repeat on other side and then pressure bleed and tap caliper (while under pressure) in an upward fashion to dislodge air bubbles.

There is little to no waste - especially if you suck the MC dry (w/syringe) and fill it with fresh fluid so you're not mixing old & new fluids. There is very little waste.

One brake system can be bled in 15 min from a completely empty status.