Show us your "FZ" special tools

FinalImpact

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While tinkering on the bike this past weekend I snapped a picture of "Woody"! He's barely 8" tall and works perfect for propping the front wheel up!

He's cheap, effective, stable and fits nicely under the headers so the forks can be serviced!
attachment.php


JJD952
 

tejkowskit

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Already posted mine here http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/52571-home-built-motorcycle-maint-tools.html, but I'll post again :thumbup:

Not really fz specific, but for brake bleeding (no that fluid is not from the fz!)
20140415_185836.jpg


Everyone has on of these for the front axle!
20140415_185841.jpg


And finally my cable cleaner/luber. This with an air compressor and rag works better than any chinsy "cable luber tool". Clamp hose around clutch or throttle cable by tightening hose clamp, spray lube/cleaner in hose, use air compressor to force gunk out and lube onto cable! Works great.
20140415_185714.jpg


As for jacking up the front end, I usually just use 4x4's and 2x4's for cribbing. Not as convenient as your woody though.lol
 

FinalImpact

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Anyone needing to pull the clutch basket, here is a simple homemade tool. Just grab some used frictions and steel discs (rivet them together) and a weld a handle to the steel discs it. Not exactly in that order, but you get the idea....

I don't have this but if someone happens to have a basket full of burnt or non-usable steel discs, I'll take one!
 
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tyler2011

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Oh, mr woody. Good way to start this. Anyway, front axle also happens to be the same size as the outisde of a 5/8 spark plug socket. Take out the rubber plug holder and insert the 3/8 drive backwards. This does not work with all spark plug sockets, but works with my craftsman set.
 

ShoopCE

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ALMOST embarrassed to post this here, but here's another one of those things that can be used in place of an expensive single-use specialty tool. A good, sturdy, and really cheap replacement for the 19 mm bit that you need to remove the front wheel is this, a 1/2 " rod coupling nut. The exterior measures 3/4" across the faces which is almost exactly 19mm.

Coupling Nut.jpg

52966d1398969223-how-remove-your-front-wheel-0-75in-couplingnut-jpg


They're less than $3.00 at Lowes or Home Depot, or other full service hardware store.

I found this in a Google search. It was posted on sportbikes.net by user 831FZ6.

Chris
 
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FZSizzle

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Don't have a pic, but any soap dispenser "squirter" (I used a soft soap one) will work as a useful tool to put into oil dip stick reservoir and pump like you would soap if you happen to overfill the oil.

Found a pic!

Love riding my FZ6!
quqaveda.jpg
 
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tejkowskit

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ALMOST embarrassed to post this here, but here's another one of those things that can be used in place of an expensive single-use specialty tool. A good, sturdy, and really cheap replacement for the 19 mm bit that you need to remove the front wheel is this, a 1/2 " rod coupling nut. The exterior measures 3/4" across the faces which is almost exactly 19mm.

52966d1398969223-how-remove-your-front-wheel-0-75in-couplingnut-jpg


They're less than $3.00 at Lowes or Home Depot, or other full service hardware store.

I found this in a Google search. It was posted on sportbikes.net by user 831FZ6.

Chris

Great idea with the coupling nut! I'm definitely getting one. Much better than my bolt with nuts backed up to each other.
 

bdevries

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Cut the end off of a spark plug socket if you can't get the extension through and you end up getting something like this to remove the front axle.
 

2007Fizzer

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ALMOST embarrassed to post this here, but here's another one of those things that can be used in place of an expensive single-use specialty tool. A good, sturdy, and really cheap replacement for the 19 mm bit that you need to remove the front wheel is this, a 1/2 " rod coupling nut. The exterior measures 3/4" across the faces which is almost exactly 19mm.

They're less than $3.00 at Lowes or Home Depot, or other full service hardware store.
Chris

+1 on the rod coupler! Was only $1.39 at Home Depot this weekend, and fits like it was made for the task. Nice addition to my tool box. Thanks, Chris.
 

Carlos840

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FinalImpact

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Anyone needing to pull the air box off your FZ, a 6" 4mm Allen Cap ball socket is pretty handy. This one is 6.5". I welded it up after struggling the first time to remove the air box with stubbies...

The added extension is not needed but get your knuckles clear.
attachment.php
 

FinalImpact

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+1 on the rod coupler! Was only $1.39 at Home Depot this weekend, and fits like it was made for the task. Nice addition to my tool box. Thanks, Chris.

Even though I don't have those forks anymore, I grabbed one ^^ as its just too handy and well, one of the bolt/double nut combo's fell apart the other day working on a friends bike!
 

2007Fizzer

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+1 on the soap dispenser squirter. Field expedient is always fun. I had a terrible time trying to remove my coolant reservoir. So I half filled it with some water and added a tiny bit of good low suds hand soap. Rocked the bike side to side for a while to scrub out the reservoir. Then emptied the dirty water with the soap dispenser squirter. (My wife had some fru-fru Body and Bath Works hand soap dispensers that have a "squirter" with a higher throughput and longer feed tube, and they work even better than the generic hand soap squirter.) Next time I'm gonna add a piece of appropriate diameter tubing to the outbound tip of the squirter, so I can shoot the dirty water and the old coolant right into my "empty Turkey Hill iced tea plastic 2 quart bottle" hazardous material "disposal container"!
 

trepetti

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8ugu5una.jpg


This is my steering nut wrench. I took a 32mm socket and a pneumatic wheel cutter and after some careful marking was able to make a wrench that allows simple torquing of the steering head.
 

FinalImpact

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For years I've used a small capillary tubes and syringes in various ways to purge and move fluids from mechanical hardware as it offers great control and less mess. The last part being the key ingredient (no mess). Example is the current cage which has very odd shaped brake master cylinder reservoir that is impossible to empty from the topside. however, it can be done with a syringe and flex tube like that shown below. In that case its far better than pumping all that fluid through the system. I do the same thing on the bike.

Lube the clutch cable:
Recently the hypo I'd been using failed so I had to build a new one and wanted to stay away from rubber products as they swell when exposed to petroleum products. I also thought it wise to ditch the needle...

Out goes the old:
attachment.php

I suppose one could remove engine oil should an "overfill" event occur too!


In with the new:
This one doesn't have a rubber cup to fail and because it isn't shanked down by small needle it flows pretty quick. The clutch cable loves it! PS - tubing is 0.032" OD Teflon and can be slid down the sheath roughly 5" if you choose to.
attachment.php
 

FinalImpact

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Fork Seal driver:

Use a 3' section of 2" PVC and cut multiple slices about 5" long up one end. Be sure to start with a true 90° cut on the end. Use a ZipTie, Hose clamp or heavy tape to adjust the size to your needs. Drive the OUTER edge of the seal, not the inside.

Its cheap and it works!
55965d1421968827-front-fork-oil-steering-head-bearings-tires-img_20150122_fork-seal-driver-jpg
 

2007Z6ALL-LED

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FinalImpact

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Not a tool but something to have in the shop!

In the US this product is available and seems to work great. Head bearings, rear shock bearing, swing arm, Anything that doesn't spin at high speed, pivots, levers, etc... Bought in a cartridge tube plus it's water resistant too. Take a look. Should be able to find it at most parts stores.

Valvoline Crimson™ Grease
Multi-purpose lithium soap grease designed for commercial fleets.
  • Provides excellent performance over a variety of operating conditions
  • Dyed red for easy identification
  • Contains select extreme pressure additives to protect and lubricate during heavy shock loading periods
  • Is fortified with oxidation and corrosion

Overview
Valvoline's Crimson grease (Red Lithium 12-Hydroxy) is a tacky, extreme pressure, lithium soap grease designed specifically for the commercial fleet environment }} And Many Yamaha's :D:D

Every Valvoline grease is formulated to stand up to a range of extreme operating environments and conditions. Across the board, Valvoline greases provide excellent pumpability, lubricate and protect while withstanding extreme temperatures and load stresses, and deliver outstanding resistance to water washout.
 
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