Service Parts

[andyfazer600]

Hi folks,

Looking for some assistance in confirming if I'm on the right track in collecting parts ready for the next/future services.

Thus far I have a couple of Champion COF203 oil filters, Castrol Power 1 Racing fully synthetic 10W/40 and (I think) the correct Comma lithium based multi-purpose grease for steering head, suspension linkage, swing arm bearings etc. I also plan on changing to braided brake hoses so have some Halfords DOT 4 brake fluid on standby.

Other parts I am going to get are NGK CR9EIX iridium spark plugs and engine coolant (ethylene glycol based with corrosion inhibitors for aluminium engines). I'm not planning on getting any aerosol cable lubricant as I'm think of just using some of the above mentioned engine oil as recommended in the Yamaha manual.

Anything I've missed? Also I'm struggling to find somewhere that sells the correct coolant.

Sorry if I seem a little 'asky', this is my first time of servicing my own bike and I want to get it right.

 

[PhotoAl]

Don't know if I would spend the extra on the iridium spark plugs, ran them then a set or "stock" plugs and didn't notice much difference. For coolant I have used Honda motorcycle coolant and last time the Motule (spelling?).

Take your time, it's not that hard. I used Honda threadlocker (medium) on everything. Torque everything to specs (never over, most of the time a little under like 50 instead of 52). It is a lot of fun as long as you dont get in a rush.

 

[FinalImpact]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/50319-service-parts.html

Hi folks,

Looking for some assistance in confirming if I'm on the right track in collecting parts ready for the next/future services.

Thus far I have a couple of Champion COF203 oil filters, Castrol Power 1 Racing fully synthetic 10W/40 and (I think) the correct Comma lithium based multi-purpose grease for steering head, suspension linkage, swing arm bearings etc. I also plan on changing to braided brake hoses so have some Halfords DOT 4 brake fluid on standby.

Other parts I am going to get are NGK CR9EIX iridium spark plugs and engine coolant (ethylene glycol based with corrosion inhibitors for aluminium engines). I'm not planning on getting any aerosol cable lubricant as I'm think of just using some of the above mentioned engine oil as recommended in the Yamaha manual.

Anything I've missed? Also I'm struggling to find somewhere that sells the correct coolant.

Sorry if I seem a little 'asky', this is my first time of servicing my own bike and I want to get it right.

Everything seems good although I personally wouldn't run "racing oil" all season but plenty of people do. Often times you pay more for it and it may not contain suitable amount of corrosion inhibitors for extended off cycle high humidity conditions. JMO....

As for the plugs, it will save you labor but no performance increase. I would still inspect them at 2.4km / 15k miles. Also take a look at this when doing the plug replacement. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/48874-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe with your year bike, replacing the spark plugs require removing the radiator so you may want to do those at the same time. I use Prestone 50/50 pre-mixed or you can use a motorcycle specific coolant. A turkey baster is said to work well draining your overflow coolant tank (as that fluid should be changed out too).

As the plugs can be a PIA to get to, I didn't see much if any difference in performance when I installed them in my bike but they last considerably longer than regular ones. I got mine on Amazon and they were very reasonable(maybe $1 more than the stockers).

The spark plug caps CAN (and likely) will be stuck good to the valve cover. DO NOT pull on the wire. You can, with a thin screwdriver, gently work the cap upwards and off the valve cover.

When re-installing, putting some di-lectric grease on the rubber part of the cap where it meets the valve cover will allow it to SNAP back on the plug easily. Without that, its not hard to think the plug wire is fully on and it is NOT... While the iridiums are suppossed to be pre-gapped, check the gap witha wire gauge (this is per NGK I contacted). Three plugs were dead on, the last off by .001" (I didn't mess with it).

Putting a short piece of rubber hose on the porcelin end of the spark plug when re-installing the new plug allows you to gently get it down to the hole and start spinning it into the threads. Pull the hose off once started and finish with a socket. Also, per NGK, those spark plug threads DO NOT REQUIRE anti-seize, they already have a coating on the threads to prevent later seizure.

Good luck, take your time, you'll be fine!!

 

[andyfazer600]

Don't know if I would spend the extra on the iridium spark plugs, ran them then a set or "stock" plugs and didn't notice much difference. For coolant I have used Honda motorcycle coolant and last time the Motule (spelling?).

Take your time, it's not that hard. I used Honda threadlocker (medium) on everything. Torque everything to specs (never over, most of the time a little under like 50 instead of 52). It is a lot of fun as long as you dont get in a rush.

I can get the iridium plugs for nearly the same price which was my only reason behind going for them, I think their only advantage is they tend to hold up and last a bit better.

Thanks for the tips on coolant, I think the correct spelling is Motul lol

I'm going to have a long, cold, dark Scottish winter to do everything so no doubt I'll be taking things very slowly. Only limiting factor is the amount of daylight I'll have and the amount time before my finger become frozen.

Everything seems good although I personally wouldn't run "racing oil" all season but plenty of people do. Often times you pay more for it and it may not contain suitable amount of corrosion inhibitors for extended off cycle high humidity conditions. JMO....

As for the plugs, it will save you labor but no performance increase. I would still inspect them at 2.4km / 15k miles. Also take a look at this when doing the plug replacement. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/48874-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

I'm not sure if it is genuinely "racing" oil or that's just a snazzy name Castrol stick of the tin.

Thanks for the tip on the plug caps, I'll definitely be checking them out.

 

[andyfazer600]

Going to change the fully synthetic oil for some part synthetic stuff

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Going to change the fully synthetic oil for some part synthetic stuff

I looked up the oil you posted and it appears to be for normal street riding, NOT TRACK use.

IMHO, I'd use that oil if you already have it. As noted above, Motul 5100, semi synthetic is fine too (I used it for many years in the FZ before switching to full Mobile 1 synthetic). I really couldn't tell any difference exept Mobil 4T lasts 5,000 miles, not 3,000 miles

Mobile one has similar full synthetic oils, I actually contacted Mobil and inquired. He directed me AWAY from the track use oil (for regular street use) and to use this full synthetic. Track use oil is epected to be changed very often(often engine rebuilds) and isn't designed to last 3,000 miles, that's per the Mobil REP.

I'd call the company directly (should be a # on the bottle or find it online) and inquire.


Their main site: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9047792&contentId=7081455

You have to put in your vehicle info (It won't let you post the direct link here) and it directs you.

Recommended for your 04 FZ: Power RS 4T 10W-40

The actual product: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9045375&contentId=7079435

 

[andyfazer600]

I looked up the oil you posted and it appears to be for normal street riding, NOT TRACK use.

IMHO, I'd use that oil if you already have it. As noted above, Motul 5100, semi synthetic is fine too (I used it for many years in the FZ before switching to full Mobile 1 synthetic). I really couldn't tell any difference exept Mobil 4T lasts 5,000 miles, not 3,000 miles

Mobile one has similar full synthetic oils, I actually contacted Mobil and inquired. He directed me AWAY from the track use oil (for regular street use) and to use this full synthetic. Track use oil is epected to be changed very often(often engine rebuilds) and isn't designed to last 3,000 miles, that's per the Mobil REP.

I'd call the company directly (should be a # on the bottle or find it online) and inquire.


Their main site: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9047792&contentId=7081455

You have to put in your vehicle info (It won't let you post the direct link here) and it directs you.

Recommended for your 04 FZ: Power RS 4T 10W-40

The actual product: Power RS Racing 4T | Castrol

Happy with that, if Castrol recommend it thats good enough for me. Yet again you wisdom is much appreciated :thumbup:

 

[andyfazer600]

I believe with your year bike, replacing the spark plugs require removing the radiator so you may want to do those at the same time. I use Prestone 50/50 pre-mixed or you can use a motorcycle specific coolant. A turkey baster is said to work well draining your overflow coolant tank (as that fluid should be changed out too).

As the plugs can be a PIA to get to, I didn't see much if any difference in performance when I installed them in my bike but they last considerably longer than regular ones. I got mine on Amazon and they were very reasonable(maybe $1 more than the stockers).

The spark plug caps CAN (and likely) will be stuck good to the valve cover. DO NOT pull on the wire. You can, with a thin screwdriver, gently work the cap upwards and off the valve cover.

When re-installing, putting some di-lectric grease on the rubber part of the cap where it meets the valve cover will allow it to SNAP back on the plug easily. Without that, its not hard to think the plug wire is fully on and it is NOT... While the iridiums are suppossed to be pre-gapped, check the gap witha wire gauge (this is per NGK I contacted). Three plugs were dead on, the last off by .001" (I didn't mess with it).

Putting a short piece of rubber hose on the porcelin end of the spark plug when re-installing the new plug allows you to gently get it down to the hole and start spinning it into the threads. Pull the hose off once started and finish with a socket. Also, per NGK, those spark plug threads DO NOT REQUIRE anti-seize, they already have a coating on the threads to prevent later seizure.

Good luck, take your time, you'll be fine!!

Thanks for the tips, especially about the plug caps. I'll be sure to take caution when removing them.

I'm really planning a good long service, check over and tidy up over at least 6 months as of the end of September.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I tried to "Chat" with them (Castrol) this am but couldn't get thru. I did however just receive this e-mail from them, (just as an FYI):



--Please enter your response above this line--
This ticket has been updated by LT - Castrol Representative

Thank you for contacting Castrol North America.

Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the engine manufacturer for the recommended oil (i.e. SAE grade, API rating and manufacturer specifications) specific to your application. This information can always be found in the owner's manual or by contacting the manufacturer directly.

For2004 Yamaha FZ6-N and FZ6-S, as per Castrol's 'Which Motorcycle Oil to Buy' tool (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9047792&contentId=7081455), Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40 oil is recommended for use.

Castrol Consumer Relations

Full ticket details

Ticket #68443
Ticket: When you were offline (via LivePerson)
Status: Emailed

Company: Castrol
Contact: Not Provided
Phone:
Address: Not Provided
, FL



Detail Description:
Mon 12/08/2013/4:00 PM EDT/ LT - Castrol Representative (time)-

Mon 12/08/2013/6:50 AM EDT/ [email protected] (email)is Power RS 4T 10W-40
oil good for everyday street use for an 04 Yamaha FZ6. Its whats recommended on your site? The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site.

Message sent from IP: 76.1.172.47

Problem Resolution:
Mon 12/08/2013/4:00 PM EDT/ LT - Castrol Representative (time)-

Thank you for contacting Castrol North America.

Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the engine manufacturer for the recommended oil (i.e. SAE grade, API rating and manufacturer specifications) specific to your application. This information can always be found in the owner's manual or by contacting the manufacturer directly.

For2004 Yamaha FZ6-N and FZ6-S, as per Castrol's 'Which Motorcycle Oil to Buy' tool (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9047792&contentId=7081455), Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40 oil is recommended for use.

Castrol Consumer Relations

 

[andyfazer600]

Thanks for contacting them. I'm going to try to speak someone in their UK technical department as well

 

[andyfazer600]

When re-installing, putting some di-lectric grease on the rubber part of the cap where it meets the valve cover will allow it to SNAP back on the plug easily.

Out of curiosity (and not being able to find it) what exactly is di-lectric grease? It may be that it is know across the pond by another name.

How's this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dielectric-Grease-for-contacts-and-connectors-/380370452070

 

[Gelvatron]

It's a non port oleum grease that protects from corrosion and promotes continuity through the connection just another form of protection

The eBay link looks right I'm sure it can be any color but usually clear or white hint I a silicone grease

 

[andyfazer600]

It's a non port oleum grease that protects from corrosion and promotes continuity through the connection just another form of protection

The eBay link looks right I'm sure it can be any color but usually clear or white hint I a silicone grease

Would a single 5 gram pouch be enough? Could I alternatively use an aerosol silicone grease?

Another couple of items I'm going to look at getting are a fuel filter and brake calliper seals

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Out of curiosity (and not being able to find it) what exactly is di-lectric grease? It may be that it is know across the pond by another name.

How's this? Dielectric Grease for contacts and connectors | eBay

Yep that's it!

I use it on EVERY CONNECTOR / bulb connector I come across or have to take apart.

It goes a long way and you need just a little on each cap, it won't won't soak in and go away. One, maybe 2 packets will be plenty.

Keeps any moisture in a bulb socket from rusting the two together too. Any automotive parts store should carry it, great stuff!

(DON"T get it on the glass of a headlight bulb, the two or three prongs is fine)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Would a single 5 gram pouch be enough? Could I alternatively use an aerosol silicone grease?

Another couple of items I'm going to look at getting are a fuel filter and brake calliper seals

The fuel filter is built into the fuel pump and is not replaceable.

I wouldn't use sprayable silicone grease, it'd help but will soak in and dry up making next time a PIA. The di-lectric grease will allow those caps to pop off and again, help keep water from intruding.


The below pic is the fuel filter/ fuel pump:

(pic's are from another forum member)

 

[andyfazer600]

Yep that's it!

I use it on EVERY CONNECTOR / bulb connector I come across or have to take apart.

It goes a long way and you need just a little on each cap, it won't won't soak in and go away. One, maybe 2 packets will be plenty.

Keeps any moisture in a bulb socket from rusting the two together too. Any automotive parts store should carry it, great stuff!

(DON"T get it on the glass of a headlight bulb, the two or three prongs is fine)

Great I'll get a couple ordered tonight :thumbup:

The fuel filter is built into the fuel pump and is not replaceable.

I wouldn't use sprayable silicone grease, it'd help but will soak in and dry up making next time a PIA. The di-lectric grease will allow those caps to pop off and again, help keep water from intruding.


The below pic is the fuel filter/ fuel pump:

(pic's are from another forum member)

I'll leave the fuel filter then LOL and the aerosol silicone grease

 

[andyfazer600]

Reference oil I have spoken with various parties with similar stories.

Yamaha UK are of the opinion 10W/40 is the choice oil for me but didn't really lean towards part or full synthetic. After a quick discussion with a chap in their technical department, he explained the main advantage of a full sythetic oil over a part synthetic is a greater level of protection for high revving, harder worked engines i.e. regular track use or racing, however, that is not to say that part synthetic is in no way 'unprotective' or indeed that full synthetic will not protect an engine in everyday commuting use (as I explained this was my bike's main use).

I also contacted the Yamaha dealer I bought the bike from in Glasgow and got much the same response as that of Yamaha UK.

The only people with a slightly different view were Castrol UK. I spoke, again with their technical department, and was initially advised on 10W/30. After chatting a bit more they mentioned 10W/40 would also be just as good for me. However the difference of opinion with Castrol was that full synthetic was the oil of choice for my bike.

I've come to the conclusion I'm going to stick with the synthetic 10W/40 I've already got as its sounds to me there is little difference between the two.

 

[andyfazer600]

I use Prestone 50/50 pre-mixed or you can use a motorcycle specific coolant. A turkey baster is said to work well draining your overflow coolant tank (as that fluid should be changed out too).

This look good?

antifreeze coolant 4ltrs ready to use | eBay

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This look good?

antifreeze coolant 4ltrs ready to use | eBay

Yepper, that's what I use. Its the extended life version, supposedly good for 5 years..

Don't think I'd go that long but its held up very well. My coolant rarely goes over 190 F (in SW Florida in the summer). :thumbup: