Remus Revolution!!
- Thread starter DMorck
- Start date
tomari
Just a custom user title!
aw! aaaah! ooohhhh!!! i like it !!! :rockon: :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:
thanks!
now how can i buy them with wife not noticing??? maybe i have to talk to her about the dangers awaiting when looking a bike from behind and ridding without earplugs :BLAA:
Shiloh
Squire to Lord Bouche
The reasons that I found you could not install the Leo's without the included Cat eliminator on an 09 were three fold.
1) The inside diameter of the Y pipe would need to be a match to the outside diameter of the Yamaha Cat pipe. It is not even close, being 4 to 5 mm larger ID than the Yamaha pipes OD,
2) The Y pipe is not slotted so as to allow clamping, so this would need to be done as well as something to allow a method of matching the diameters.
3) The y pipe attaches to the up pipe (cat pipe) via a tension spring located on the underside of the pipe. There is no attachment point on the underside of the Yamaha cat pipe for the tension spring.
If you look closely at the Leo Vince Cat Elimination Pipe, you will notice the the end that attaches to Yamaha collector pipe is not flared to slip over the pipe, but is instead reduced in diameter to allow a slip fit suitable for clamping.
Can it be done, yes, but not as shipped. A muffler shop could rework things for you to make it work, but I choose not to take that approach.
Shiloh
Squire to Lord Bouche
Thanks for the heads up,. I found the bits you mentioned taped to some packing material,. Didn't even notice them before.
A few minutes with a drill, and they now are screw attached. Thanks for the help on reducing things I send to the land fills by mistake.
Chris
GO!!!!!!!
Hehe, no problem!Thanks for the heads up,. I found the bits you mentioned taped to some packing material,. Didn't even notice them before.
A few minutes with a drill, and they now are screw attached. Thanks for the help on reducing things I send to the land fills by mistake.
thebikergeek
Junior Member
Remus are great! I've got a full system with PCIII and it really is fantastic
Olegator
Junior Member
That's funny how in all your reviews none of you guys talked about the most importaint part of any exhaust system that shows quality, the welds.
That being said, the quality of welds on my Remus was fair, but not great by any means. I don't know how it compares to other exhausts, but all of the performance parts that I have on my track car have far better weld lines than Remus.
I can take and post some pictures if needed.
That being said, the quality of welds on my Remus was fair, but not great by any means. I don't know how it compares to other exhausts, but all of the performance parts that I have on my track car have far better weld lines than Remus.
I can take and post some pictures if needed.
Shiloh
Squire to Lord Bouche
Your right, the weld are good, not bad, but not great by any means. Strange that the weld quality isn't the same as the attention to polishing the pipes, etc.
Olegator
Junior Member
I think this is because the pipes are made at a different factory, and the only thing Remus techs are doing is welding the pipes and riveting the plates...
Nonetheless, it's a deal for 500$
Nonetheless, it's a deal for 500$
PipBoy
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Guys, How the hell did you get the baffles out of the Remus? I've had these cans on my bike for about a month (Pics to come). When they arrived the first thing I did was drill out the rivets on the bottom. After which I tried for quite awhile (with the help of my room mate) to pull the baffles out a pair of pliers with no results. They both moved about a quarter inch so i know there should be nothing else holding them in there. After doing an internet search i found alot of people with different bikes used a broom handle or something to push them out from the other end. This however wont work with the FZ6 Remus because the y pipe and connecting pipe came welded to the cans already. After some frustration I mounted them to my bike anyway. Once on the bike, I tried pulling them out with channel locks, vice grips, pulling on a wire run through the little bracket where the rivet was. I was pretty much standing on the back wheel pulling this wire. I even (very stupidly) tied one end of a cable to a pole and the other end to the baffle and tried using the bikes own power to rip it out. :disapproveA momentary lapse in reason amongst desperation. I wont do that again) The only other thing I can think of is heating the outside of the can with a heat gun and then trying to pull them? Again they are moving a little bit but the dang things will not come out!:
I've had these cans on my bike for about a month (Pics to come). When they arrived the first thing I did was drill out the rivets on the bottom. After which I tried for quite awhile (with the help of my room mate) to pull the baffles out a pair of pliers with no results. They both moved about a quarter inch so i know there should be nothing else holding them in there. After doing an internet search i found alot of people with different bikes used a broom handle or something to push them out from the other end. This however wont work with the FZ6 Remus because the y pipe and connecting pipe came welded to the cans already. After some frustration I mounted them to my bike anyway. Once on the bike, I tried pulling them out with channel locks, vice grips, pulling on a wire run through the little bracket where the rivet was. I was pretty much standing on the back wheel pulling this wire. I even (very stupidly) tied one end of a cable to a pole and the other end to the baffle and tried using the bikes own power to rip it out. :disapproveA momentary lapse in reason amongst desperation. I wont do that again) The only other thing I can think of is heating the outside of the can with a heat gun and then trying to pull them? Again they are moving a little bit but the dang things will not come out!:
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PipBoy
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oh by the way I got mine on pipecity for $499. I originaly ordered the carbon ones when the sale went up on the forum, but you guys bought them all up that night :BLAA:. The lady on the phone was really cool though. She said she found the titanium pair in the warehouse. I think they look great! :needpics:I know. But I REALLY want to get those baffles out first :thumbup:
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Shiloh
Squire to Lord Bouche
Oh yes, the baffles. I had to play a bit to get mine out.
Here is the way I did it.
Rivets are removed and the baffle can be moved about 1/4 inch (5 -6 mm).
Now get a pair of vise grips and clamp them tight to the top edge of the baffle.
Take a adjustable crescent wrench and adjust the span so that it just fits over the narrowest part of the vise grip (between the clamping jaws and the handle area). The crescent wrench will be nearly vertical, and will be used to apply rearward force on the vise grips.
Now, take a small piece of wood and place it such that the wood rests on the projecting lip of the baffle and butts against the lip of the exhaust. The wood should be hard wood and about 3/4 inch thick and about 2 to 3 inches wide, length isn't important.
The handle of the crescent wrench is then rested against the upper edge of the wood which provides the fulcrum point. Just tap the handle toward the front of the bike, and the vise grips will move the baffles to the rear., as the crescent pivots about the wood block fulcrum point.
I used a rubber mallet to tap on the handle of the crescent wrench and the baffles came out without any (additional) problems.
Hope this is clear enough to help.
Andy
Here is the way I did it.
Rivets are removed and the baffle can be moved about 1/4 inch (5 -6 mm).
Now get a pair of vise grips and clamp them tight to the top edge of the baffle.
Take a adjustable crescent wrench and adjust the span so that it just fits over the narrowest part of the vise grip (between the clamping jaws and the handle area). The crescent wrench will be nearly vertical, and will be used to apply rearward force on the vise grips.
Now, take a small piece of wood and place it such that the wood rests on the projecting lip of the baffle and butts against the lip of the exhaust. The wood should be hard wood and about 3/4 inch thick and about 2 to 3 inches wide, length isn't important.
The handle of the crescent wrench is then rested against the upper edge of the wood which provides the fulcrum point. Just tap the handle toward the front of the bike, and the vise grips will move the baffles to the rear., as the crescent pivots about the wood block fulcrum point.
I used a rubber mallet to tap on the handle of the crescent wrench and the baffles came out without any (additional) problems.
Hope this is clear enough to help.
Andy
