KUMAJ
Member
Good choice! Actually, they provide sprockets as OEM stuff into Japanese bike, though their main products is thooth paste and hair shanpoo LOL.
They announce that roundness tolerance and accuracy is better than others.
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R6 sprocket and chain mod
- Thread starter firsttimefz
- Start date
Good choice! Actually, they provide sprockets as OEM stuff into Japanese bike, though their main products is thooth paste and hair shanpoo LOL.
They announce that roundness tolerance and accuracy is better than others.
KUMAJ
Member
I also think changing it to 17T to get milder 2nd gear, sometime I can't descision to turn corner on 2nd or 3rd gear because acceralate character is too different each other. I'll do it in this weekend and, inform you impression on high speed cruising and accelaration on 6th gear.
KUMAJ
Member
Last weekend I changed front sprocket to 17T. Yes I can use 2nd gear as efficientry gear in twisties. However, accelelate on 6th has became little too dull (need down the gear to reach to 150km/h) on the high way and, little seviar the clutch control at start. Actually, I need to do many go and stop in Tokyo and may not be problem in other countries or suburban. I'll report again after test on 15T to rely on exciting 3rd gear in winding road.
Feeling like this test will take one year for me to think well riding on total.
Incidentally, I described and compare gear raito (magnified by modified final raito to stock final raito) with '08 R6. It is interesting because 3rd to 6th is same with FZ6 installed 15T,2nd is similar with FZ6 stock.
Feeling like this test will take one year for me to think well riding on total.
Incidentally, I described and compare gear raito (magnified by modified final raito to stock final raito) with '08 R6. It is interesting because 3rd to 6th is same with FZ6 installed 15T,2nd is similar with FZ6 stock.
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bmccrary
Touring Mod
If you drop in chain size from what the factory size is expect to be adjust the chain abit more than you are now. That is unless you pony up the cash for a NICE chain. With my dirtbikes I would kill a DID in under a season. The best I found for not stretching is a Tsubaki chain. U.S. Tsubaki
I liked the Regina chain as well, it lasted a while but the gold finish wore off after one run.
Some good sprokets are Renthal, Sunstar and sproket specialties. (Sproket Specialties will cut you any sproket you desire if you cant find the number of teeth you are looking for.)
Also, Al sprokets are nice however they will tend to cup on you after a while so you may want to stick to steel.
As for a write up on changing out the sprokets. My advise would be as follows:
Remove old chain by removing the masterlink and pulling the chain off.
Remove rear wheel. Apply lots of PB blaster on the nuts that hold the rear spoket to the rubber damper on the rear wheel. Let sit and apply again. Using a closed end wrench remove the nuts and then remove the sproket and appy the new one. When putting the nuts back on, apply thread locker.
Counter shaft sprocket: Remove the cover and using a pair of C-clip pliers remove the C-clip and slide old sproket off and then add the new one, re insert C-clip.
The chain. Here comes the fun part.
First put the rear wheel back on and run the adjusters all the way in so that the axle is a far foward as possible.
When you order a chain to your specified length, the always come a few links too long. (Always) You will need to cut the chain to length. Now you can do this with a pair of chain breakers or you can use a dremel and grind down the sides of the link so that you can take it apart to the desired length. From there instal the new masterlink and you are good to go as soon and you double check things and make sure that you axle is straight and tight.
Also just as a side note if you want a neat way to see if you chain is shot. Remove the chain and lay it flat on the floor. Then take the two ends and move them towards you in a bending motion. The chain should curve in some, but if it moves in to a nice cresant shape, its toast.
I had a DID after one season almost make a U!
Also I like to service my chains from time to time by taking them off and soaking them in K-1 and scrubbing them till they are spotless. This will also remove a majority of the oil out of the chain so from there I let the chain soak in old engine oil for several days then hang it up over the pan from one end to drain off the excess.
Once it is back on the bike I coat it in my favorite chain lube.
-bryan
I liked the Regina chain as well, it lasted a while but the gold finish wore off after one run.
Some good sprokets are Renthal, Sunstar and sproket specialties. (Sproket Specialties will cut you any sproket you desire if you cant find the number of teeth you are looking for.)
Also, Al sprokets are nice however they will tend to cup on you after a while so you may want to stick to steel.
As for a write up on changing out the sprokets. My advise would be as follows:
Remove old chain by removing the masterlink and pulling the chain off.
Remove rear wheel. Apply lots of PB blaster on the nuts that hold the rear spoket to the rubber damper on the rear wheel. Let sit and apply again. Using a closed end wrench remove the nuts and then remove the sproket and appy the new one. When putting the nuts back on, apply thread locker.
Counter shaft sprocket: Remove the cover and using a pair of C-clip pliers remove the C-clip and slide old sproket off and then add the new one, re insert C-clip.
The chain. Here comes the fun part.
First put the rear wheel back on and run the adjusters all the way in so that the axle is a far foward as possible.
When you order a chain to your specified length, the always come a few links too long. (Always) You will need to cut the chain to length. Now you can do this with a pair of chain breakers or you can use a dremel and grind down the sides of the link so that you can take it apart to the desired length. From there instal the new masterlink and you are good to go as soon and you double check things and make sure that you axle is straight and tight.
Also just as a side note if you want a neat way to see if you chain is shot. Remove the chain and lay it flat on the floor. Then take the two ends and move them towards you in a bending motion. The chain should curve in some, but if it moves in to a nice cresant shape, its toast.
I had a DID after one season almost make a U!
Also I like to service my chains from time to time by taking them off and soaking them in K-1 and scrubbing them till they are spotless. This will also remove a majority of the oil out of the chain so from there I let the chain soak in old engine oil for several days then hang it up over the pan from one end to drain off the excess.
Once it is back on the bike I coat it in my favorite chain lube.
-bryan
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