R6 sprocket and chain mod

H

HavBlue

anyone out there done it. worth the cash? what kind of performance are we looking at

Not yet but I have dropped to the 15T counter that is used on the R6 and it was impressive. The FZ6 uses a 530 pitch with a 16/46 gearing and a redline of 14,000rpm. The ratio on the final drive is 2.87:1. The current R6 uses a 525 pitch with a 15/48 final and a redline of like 16,000rpm. The ratio is 3.2:1. You will lose roughly 10mph on the top end but getting there will be much easier and that gearing will rock in the twisties. Is it worth it? Base on my experience with the 15/46 set up I would say "oh hell yes" and that's why I am patiently waiting for the OEM stuff to wear out...... You will need a speedo healer to bring the clock back to correct.
 
H

HavBlue

A spedo healer is a programable electronic device that taps into the circuit and adjusts the signal to the head unit.
 

DefyInertia

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+1 to everything HavBlue said (except maybe the top speed thing).

You will lose roughly 10mph on the top end but getting there will be much easier

So you're saying we'd be able to redline in 6th with -1/+2? Or are you talking about theoretical top speed? I know with -1 that I still can't wind the bike all the way out (too much wind resistance) so I have not lost any top speed. Thoughts?
 

DefyInertia

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That conversation rings a bell :D

yeah, no joke. Hav likes speed so I want to pick his brain on the -1/+2 impact.

Oh...just went back and looked at that other thread and saw Ped posted this:

with -1/+2 i can bounce the rev limiter no problem in 5th. with stock gearing i cant get
there reasonably. so being able to shift into 6th, im probably able to reach the same or higher top speeds. btw, ive hit an actual 146 in 5th (or maye just into 6th) stock, but the bike had pretty much pooped out.

EDIT - ped is speculating (and it seems reasonable to me) that we're not losing anything off the top end even with -1/+2...I wonder what the optimum gearing would be if defined as the gearing that would give you the most thrust without losing any actual top end.
 
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Wavex

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He says he hit 146mph actual on his stock FZ... which we can all pretty much confirm.

He did not mention his top actual speed after the -1/+2 though... which is what we`re asking right now :) I`d still bet you wouldn`t get to 146 after the conversion.
 

dhcg86

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I did the one up two down- and the bike is way faster- but I dont know how fast because the speedo is off- does anyone know by how much?

like a percentage?
 

Wavex

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The bike is not way faster, you actually lose speed in each gear, but you gain torque because you`ll be higher in rpm for a given speed, so you will get to 100mph faster, but the question is will you lose top speed on the FZ, since you can`t redline in 6th anyway.

Some ppl think that because you`ll be able to use the more "useful" part of the power band, you`ll be able to go faster in 6th... I have doubts :)

But anyway, I am going to perform my own test and report back shortly :thumbup:
 

DefyInertia

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He says he hit 146mph actual on his stock FZ... which we can all pretty much confirm.

He did not mention his top actual speed after the -1/+2 though... which is what we`re asking right now :) I`d still bet you wouldn`t get to 146 after the conversion.

oh shoot, i read it wrong (duh!). I'd still bet you would :D

The bike is not way faster, you actually lose speed in each gear, but you gain torque because you`ll be higher in rpm for a given speed, so you will get to 100mph faster, but the question is will you lose top speed on the FZ, since you can`t redline in 6th anyway.

Some ppl think that because you`ll be able to use the more "useful" part of the power band, you`ll be able to go faster in 6th... I have doubts :)

But anyway, I am going to perform my own test and report back shortly :thumbup:

I think by "faster" he meant accelerates harder (i.e., quicker). It's definitly way quicker. Your HP and torque shouldn't change, just your "thrust".

I just doubt you'll be able to redline 6th even with -1/+2...definitly not with -1

I too am going to figure out a way to do a ~safe test at some point :D this is great...
 

Wavex

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Agreed, it`s a fun discussion because there is no way of knowing without actually testing it.

Your torque per given speed (not rpm) will be higher though, since you are now in higher rpm for any given speed, and we know we get more torque on the fizzer the higher the rpms (until you pass 11k-12k, then torque decreases again).
 

Wavex

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OK after talking to Defy on the phone I may be talking out of my ass :D

I`ll shut up until I get test results haha
 

DefyInertia

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Your torque per given speed (not rpm) will be higher though, since you are now in higher rpm for any given speed, and we know we get more torque on the fizzer the higher the rpms (until you pass 11k-12k, then torque decreases again).

Agreed...so long as everyone is clear the peak HP/tq. will not change; they will just arrive at different traveling speeds (not rpm) which translates into more thrust when everything else is held constant. :thumbup:

EDIT - i'm shutting up now too!
 

Doorag

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Sorry, I have to do it - So where did we get to on this? Has anyone had time since August to give the -1/+2 a real world test or are we all still guessing??

Also, where can I pick up a 15T fromt sprocket? I assume any make will be ok or is there some super-duper flashy colored one I should get?
 

CanadianFZ6

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Sorry, I have to do it - So where did we get to on this? Has anyone had time since August to give the -1/+2 a real world test or are we all still guessing??

Also, where can I pick up a 15T fromt sprocket? I assume any make will be ok or is there some super-duper flashy colored one I should get?

I bought mine from SunStar Albeit it was a 17T counter that I bought.... My advice would to avoid aluminum sprockets... Steel is the way to go.
 
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H

HavBlue

Wow, this has brought up some neat things....

If you drop one in the front you will increase the rpm in each respective gear relative to the same road speed you were traveling at with the stock gear. If you go -1 and +2 this will increase (rpm to speed) even more. The overall ability of the bike to accelerate (time to distance) will decrease (the time it takes to get there) relative to the stock gearing and the bike should for all practical purposes drop in terminal velocity due to a 14,000rpm redline. The R6 has 2,000 more rpm to play with and it can use that which our bike does not have. If you think the FZ6 won't make it to the redline in 6th at -1 +2, just use one of those gearing calculators that are posted from time to time and check it out. Don't think it will work? How do you think they index cars and bikes at a drag strip before that vehicle has ever made a pass. Funny thing is they get dang close every time and the vehicle has yet to move.
 

Silver05

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So here's another question on this topic - I'm an old guy now (36 - ha) so I don't often run at 100+ speeds much anymore. But I was thinking of ADDING a tooth to the front to keep RPMs down on the road.

My concern was not really of gas mileage - we're already getting 55 or so mpg. But rather just letting the motor work a little less to go 75 or so. What are your thoughts on this? Is it worth adding a tooth to lower highway RPMs, or should I just not worry about it?

The other aspect is that adding a tooth would make the speedometer just about right. Looking forward to your feedback!

:Sport:
 

AJ_rider

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Does anybody know if there is a How-to/walkthrough for installing this mod (520 conversion) including the speedohealer? My search came up empty. Thanks.
 
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