R6 cam swap

ChevyFazer

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On a side note, unless you feel cramped, 200 lbs is nothing for this bike. My wife and I top 450lb and the bike still handles us just fine. The suspension on the other hand...

Thats what it is its the cramped feeling. Like im on a mini bike or something but im fine with the power altho more is always better ;) but the physical size of the fz1 would be its main selling point for me

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Kenward

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At the crank. I am hoping to get it the dyno soon. To see what it is at the wheel. But it pulls hard in the upper rpm range.

My freind has a honda 600rr 2011 and i give him some good competion

Sounds great, thanks! I went up against an 08 CBR 600RR with my first fz, and got destroyed, so that is nice to know. haha

i would be real intrested to see the dyno sheet if you ever have it done especially since your running the stock r6 cam and im thinkin of going with a upgraded r6 cam. With that and a couple other items im sure the little fz6 could hit triple digits. do you have any other mods?
 

Ben_H

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1 down on front sprocket helps alot to but now with cam swap i went 1 up on front sprocket. Saves gas
 

Marthy

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03-05 r6 06 up r6s

Hey Mate, I finally found this thread. I wasn't sure where I read it. I was wondering if you know what is the lift on your stock FZ6 cams. I'm getting close to have to do a valve adjustment on my FZ6R and if there's a possibility that the 6 cams fit in there. The 6R has 6mm (.236") of lift if I remember right.

Thanks
 

SovietRobot

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The FZ6 and R6 engines use the same valves, springs, cam gears/chain, except for the "inner" exhaust valve springs.
I'm wondering if they'll be fine with R6 cams?

Also the R6 has a camshaft position sensor, and possibly different timing, where I believe the FZ6 has no such sensor. Does that create any problems?
 

ChevyFazer

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Hey Mate, I finally found this thread. I wasn't sure where I read it. I was wondering if you know what is the lift on your stock FZ6 cams. I'm getting close to have to do a valve adjustment on my FZ6R and if there's a possibility that the 6 cams fit in there. The 6R has 6mm (.236") of lift if I remember right.

Thanks

Ive never looked into.the 6r is there a big difference in the motors or is it just a even more detuned r6 motor

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Marthy

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Ive never looked into.the 6r is there a big difference in the motors or is it just a even more detuned r6 motor

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It's more like a detune FZ6... The engine pull ok from 6K and get better between 7 000-10 500. It will go all the way to 12500 in first few gears but not much is going on pass 11K. I did 3 run on the Dyno. Stock, Exhaust w/o PCV and with PCV. I was able to see some gain on the dyno graph 7-10K but it fall off the cams pass 11K like it's not even funny!

I had 70 at the wheel stock
68 without PCV, R6 headers and Supertrapp with 8 discs
74 with PCV, R6 headers and Supertrapp with 12 discs + washer in 3 rows.

I never took the time to go back with the 6R header and Viper Can. It pull much better on top. I plan to go back on the dyno when the weather get in the mid 50's here in Florida. Just to try to get the same base line.
 

Ben_H

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I have the r6 cams in my fz6 and low end is ok but pulls hard at about 6k. No you don't need a pc3 but it does help. At first I just used the co adjustment. I have adjustable gears but did not put them on because it is to much work to get to them.
 

yoshiki

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03-05 r6 06 up r6s

Hi
so as far as you know the 03-05 r6 and 06- r6s is a direct fit?
i am concerned about the other engine parts if the camshaft is swapped, would it cause problems to the bike or faster wear and tear to other engine parts?
sorry not too good with mechanical stuff.
 

RJ2112

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Hi
so as far as you know the 03-05 r6 and 06- r6s is a direct fit?
i am concerned about the other engine parts if the camshaft is swapped, would it cause problems to the bike or faster wear and tear to other engine parts?
sorry not too good with mechanical stuff.

If the engine started out designed for mild performance, and you 'hopped it up', decreased engine life is the norm. Mechanical systems have to be designed as a whole to perform with long life at a given power output.

So far as engine life is concerned, 'hotter' cams will indeed accelerate engine wear. In the case of the FZ-6 the difference is going to be so small that you won't notice it; but it's there. As has been stated, if you keep the routine maintenance up, you should easily see 50,000+ miles even with the swapped cams.

This is true, mainly because the FZ6 motor is de-tuned from the R6 version. The milder cams used in the FZ6 increase engine life due to reduced peak loads on the bearings, etc.

You would end up with engine wear rates between a stock FZ6, and a stock R-6. The R-6 will still wear more quickly, due to the higher compression head.
 

Marthy

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I did a stock r6 cam swap on my 2007. it revs smoother and does give it more noticable power. yes :BLAA:they just dropped right no modification required i had no pcv at first just adjusted co and it worked fine. now i have a juice box and it screams. and only cost me $160.00 for parts used cams $65.00 on ebay manual cam tensioner $50.00 on ebay and gaskets $45.00 from dealer. did work my self changed spark plugs to while i was there $30.00

Just wanted to drop a line here... The FZ6 cams does fit in the FZ6R. All I had to do is machine the I.D. of the 6R cams gear to fit the FZ6. I'm still working on fine tuning, might swing by the stealership tomorrow for a quick base run on the dyno to check where the power curve end up. The 6R only rev 12500, so I went on the safe side. As of right now I can feel a great gain in the mid range and still goes all the way to the rev limiter much quicker than stock.

If the power/torque curve look good, I'll get the bike tune on the dyno. I'll let you know how it goes. Good news, you can sell your stock cams now :rockon:

Thanks for bringing the idea...
 

Hellgate

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Hey Marty - I really respect what you're doing, I love the guy who is the first to try something.

But I got a chuckle...the FZ6R guys are putting in FZ6 cams, the FZ6 guys are putting in R6 cams, and the R6 guys buy R1s.

Lesson learned? No one is ever satisfied.

Cheers and happy tuning! :thumbup:
 

yamihoe

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I wasn't taking about timing spark advance. The actual camshafts. We use to slot the camshaft pulley and actually changing the timing when the valve open/close in relation with the crank. Doesn't need much of a difference. 1-3 deg max.

^^I believe you are going to degree the cam ;)
I have the wheel and pointer if you need it.

just remember the ohv cam in sb chevys are easier to mess with then dohc i4 motors....you have to (like mentioned) look at valve overlap, lobe separation, look to see if it'll coil bind, piston to valve clearances, etc for BOTH cams not just one...now to make it even more fun do it on a Cobra dohc v8, PITA lol
 
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Marthy

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^^I believe you are going to degree the cam ;)
I have the wheel and pointer if you need it.

just remember the ohv cam in sb chevys are easier to mess with then dohc i4 motors....you have to (like mentioned) look at valve overlap, lobe separation, look to see if it'll coil bind, piston to valve clearances, etc for BOTH cams not just one...now to make it even more fun do it on a Cobra dohc v8, PITA lol

Is there any other way to do it? LOL I got all that in stock Mate... Thanks. It end up to be very close to whatever the timing mark were lining up. So I started there... any educated guess is a good guess... to get a base line. So far it look very good. The mid range got a good kick and still breath very good all the way to the rev limiter. I might be able to retard the Intake a bit to get a bit more of that top end rush... but I need to be careful. I'm short 2K rmp compare to you. So whatever I do it will feel a bit more flat torque compare to a FZ6.

I'm still working on the map to smooth thing up before I do a base line run on the dyno. Getting close. If it all look good I'll get it tune on the dyno, the right way!
 

ChevyFazer

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No joke marthy I've always thought myself to be pretty good behind the wrench and pride myself in being able to do anything myself but honestly I envy you skill and knowledge good work and I can't wait to see a dyno
 

redballs

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I did a stock r6 cam swap on my 2007. it revs smoother and does give it more noticable power. yes :BLAA:they just dropped right no modification required i had no pcv at first just adjusted co and it worked fine. now i have a juice box and it screams. and only cost me $160.00 for parts used cams $65.00 on ebay manual cam tensioner $50.00 on ebay and gaskets $45.00 from dealer. did work my self changed spark plugs to while i was there $30.00



I was reading your post on your R6 Cam swap. You said it was just a drop in installation plus a gasket swap. Is there anything else I should look out for before starting this daunting task? Did you run into any hiccups? Was any machining required? Details please.

Thank you
 
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