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question regarding wheel rotating

Humm... something's not right. When I had my 07 from new to 13,000 miles I always got 41-43 mpg riding a very spirited pace. With gear I'm about 200 lbs so no little fly here.

We need more information such as how do you ride? If you keep the rpm's way low like never going over 3500 rpmthat may affect milage. The FZ6 likes to run hard.

How many miles on the bike, last throttle body sync? Have you check the air filter/box for clean air filter and no obstructions?

Another way to check for drag on your rear brake rotor is to go for a good 20-30 mile ride, stop and wet you finger and very quickly touch the middle of your rear brake rotor. If the caliper is draging the rotor will be really really HOT! Careful.

As stated check chain condition, slack and keep it lubed. Keep us posted.
 
Here's some pictures of the brake pad? (not sure what it's called). Is it supposed to be touching like this?? When you spin the wheel is it suppose to make a screeching noise?

My bike is fairly new (~2000 miles) So I guess after a few more miles, the pad will get grinded away and allow freerer rotations. I just want to loosen it a little bit NOW.
 
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If someone could show me they get 2 full revolutions I would be grateful.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdJdHmEPgSQ]YouTube - Proper Right Foot Method[/ame]
 
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Cold engine. I'll do another with a warm engine, see how much difference it makes.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3ZMNHq4mKE]YouTube - FZ6 wheels spin[/ame]
 
I tried the right foot spin, got 1 rotation. I usually get 49 MPG. At least 180 miles before reserve, and never squeezed more than 3.9 gallons to fill up.
 
Interesting topic. I get about 1.5 rotations with my best right foot spin. Last 2 tanks were 51 mpg, leisurely riding.
 
I'm really curious how it is that you folks lubricated the Pistons???

The caliper has slides which allow it to float on the caliper mount. If it can't slide freely from side to side, it will drag. The pistons are internal to the caliper. 95% of the world beyond repair shops will not have the tools, talent or time to remove the pistons, boots and seals much less install them sucessfully without tearing the boot.

By the way: if you get standard grease on the boot or piston, it will make it swell and stick. Use only approved products or brake failure will be the end result.

Also, please be very clear about what you did, as I suspect most of you did not lube the pistons they are internal to the brake caliper. The only part you see is where the piston contacts the disc brake pad.

I'd say that the foot test is flop. Remove the chain if you wish to get a feel for how much "brake drag" the wheel has. Also make sure the rear brake is adjusted properly so that its not on partially. That short rod should have just a bit of freeplay at rest.
 
So it seems my bike may be normal...I just don't like the fact that the bike could potentially be slowed down by either the brake pad or the chain. Seems like a waste of energy.

I really wish we could do a comparison test, but I think it's highly improbable. My test would be riding at a certain speed, let's say 20mph. Then let go of the throttle, disengage the clutch and see how long it take the bike to coast to a stop. I bet my bike would stop in 20ft :eek:. Of course the condition has to be same (no slope, winds, ech.) so this is going no where.
 
What kind of chain lube do you use?? I use the DuPont Teflon spray with good results. Also how do you check the chain tension?? From your video it sounded kind of clacky (for lack of a better word), you might try loosening the tension a bit and see if that makes a difference. I check the tension with my lard arse sitting on the bike, I use a stick and move the chain to make sure there is enough slop(about 2"). Just something else to check:D

Jerry
 
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