Prime and crank but no start

[Johnski]

I'll try and keep this short, if the immobiliser light is constantly on does that mean it won't start? It's primes and cranks but won't start.

Now, I've bought all the parts, chassis, loom, sub frame etc it's was never a complete running bike.

It didn't come with a key or barrel so I bought a brand new key and barrel (probably chinese), I also bought an immobiliser bypass thingy.

So I'm guessing the constant red light is basically the ecu telling me to forget it because it's not gonna let me start it?

 

[Johnski]

Oh and 1 key piece of information, the barrel I bought has 2 2 pin plugs where as my loom has a 2 pin and a 1 pin, obviously the 1 pin plug on the loom didn't have anything going in to it as I don't know what it's for or which wire from the new barrel goes in to it if the makes sense?

 

[Motogiro]

Got spark?

 

[Johnski]

Not checked yet, can't smell any fuel in the TBs

The battery is currently on charge

 

[Motogiro]

Both the coils and the fuel injectors get their ground path through the ECU I imagine the immobilizer has to give the ECU the okay. I would still follow the basic path of spark and fuel presence first. Then you can look at other scenarios.

 

[Johnski]

OK so, when priming fuel does leave the tank and go to the rail

No sparks from the plugs, plugs are dry

 

[Gary in NJ]

Honestly, with a non-matching aftermarket ignition switch...who knows what's going on. It's all just guessing at this point.

 

[Johnski]

Honestly, with a non-matching aftermarket ignition switch...who knows what's going on. It's all just guessing at this point.

Just give me spark and fuel I'm sure it'll be fine

 

[tuning-forks]

The light staying on is a common issue with the emulator. Disconnecting the blue wire will get rid of it, see photo below.
If the pump is running, I think the immobilizer is no longer an issue so you have to find out why the injectors are not firing.

 

[Johnski]

OK, on holiday but will check wiring etc when I get back Monday/Tuesday

 

[Gary in NJ]

I think time spent with the wiring schematic, and understanding the continuity of the outputs of your ignition switch, will enable to see if the switch is compatible with the harness.

 

[Johnski]

OK update, so I've bought a new barrel/transponder and ecu so no more emulator and a key that matches.

Immobiliser light blinks every couple of seconds with the ignition off and doesn't blink when the ignition is on - so that's good lol

The hazards on the clocks now flash when the ignition is on, it's not the switch....... I've tried

Damn thing still won't start! I've not checked for fuel or a spark but it doesn't smell fuely in the TBs, at this point I'm thinking I'm gonna have to either remove the full loom or at least the injector part to check for any breaks in the wires etc

What started as a little project to pass the time is turning into a "why did I start this" project

 

[Motogiro]

OK update, so I've bought a new barrel/transponder and ecu so no more emulator and a key that matches.

Immobiliser light blinks every couple of seconds with the ignition off and doesn't blink when the ignition is on - so that's good lol

The hazards on the clocks now flash when the ignition is on, it's not the switch....... I've tried

Damn thing still won't start! I've not checked for fuel or a spark but it doesn't smell fuely in the TBs, at this point I'm thinking I'm gonna have to either remove the full loom or at least the injector part to check for any breaks in the wires etc

What started as a little project to pass the time is turning into a "why did I start this" project

There's red with blue tracer wire at the fuel pump. Check to see if you have 12 vdc there with the key turn to on. The same at the ignition coils. There is a red with black tracer that feed the coils. You want to see 12 vdc. with the key turned on.

 

[Johnski]

OK sooo, the fuel pump wire, when I turn on the ignition I get 12v, after a couple of seconds I can hear the relay click and the voltage goes to 0

The coils I get 12v with the ignition on

I've attached a couple of photos to make sure I'm checking the correct wires

 

[Johnski]

She's Alive, SHE'S ALIVE!

Now before I say what was the issue, I'll say I've been working on cars for over 20 years and I just wanted to buy parts for a bike to see if I could build it and get it running, so what was it stopping it from starting? Well I hadn't connected the clutch switch or the front brake switch as I didn't think they'd be needed to make it run, well, they are! Plugged them in, pressed the button and she fired right up, haven't had a smile like on my face for a long time, so thanks for all the help but keep an eye open as I'm sure I'll be asking some more questions later

 

[Motogiro]

OK sooo, the fuel pump wire, when I turn on the ignition I get 12v, after a couple of seconds I can hear the relay click and the voltage goes to 0

The coils I get 12v with the ignition on

I've attached a couple of photos to make sure I'm checking the correct wires

Great! It looks like the ECU is Allowing fuel pump prime but it's not allowing the fuel pump/injectors to run. There's a unit called the Starter interrupt- cut off relay unit. It's responsible for the safety protocols.
I see since I've started responding to your last post that you've got it resolved. LOL!
That's where I was going to take you next.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the bikes in neutral, the clutch switch, shouldn't make a difference in crank and start.

Same for the front brake switch , even if not in neutral, that shouldn't affect running...

Very odd but I think you did something else (not the above) that got it running..

.

 

[Motogiro]

If the bikes in neutral, the clutch switch, shouldn't make a difference in crank and start.

Same for the front brake switch , even if not in neutral, that shouldn't affect running...

Very odd but I think you did something else (not the above) that got it running..

.

The ECU outputs a signal thru the clutch switch that then passed through 2 diodes on the starter interrupt-cut off relay assembly. One diode to the side stand switch and the other diode to the neutral safety switch. I agree It doesn't make sense. Some logic may be set by the ECU in at some point if it sees there is a neutral path or side stand path.

 

[trepetti]

The ECU outputs a signal thru the clutch switch that then passed through 2 diodes on the starter interrupt-cut off relay assembly. One diode to the side stand switch and the other diode to the neutral safety switch. I agree It doesn't make sense. Some logic may be set by the ECU in at some point if it sees there is a neutral path or side stand path.

This would make sense IF the neutral switch was unplugged or busted.

 

[grahammarsden]

Just wondering if, during your workings, you might have changed the position of the Tip-over sensor?