Possible to replace the headlight "glass"

[Mkii]

hello everyone.
Is it possible to replace the headlight glass on the yamaha FZ6N 2006?

I wounder this b4 i'm breaking something.

Why i want to do this. well.
the bike i have is for left traffic (like Uk,Japan,AU) but i need to get the headlight to be made for right traffic (like most countries have).

I bought an used (crached) bike lamp. my plan was just to try and replace the glass since everything else is looking good and works. so

*I will transfer my original Glass to the other lamp (the black unit where the glass is fitted to, that contain the reflector etc.
*Is this possible or will i by 100% chance break the plastic? i don't want to spend money on a new headlight unit.

best regards
Jesper

 

[phranK2k11]

Pop it in the oven for 6min at 200F/94C and the sealant will soften enough to pull the "glass" right off.

It's "step 1" when doing a projector retrofit

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ excellent!
Same thing with cage lights. Remove all screws, clips, fasteners, and into the oven.

You can buy new butyl rope to assemble it with. It comes in different diameters. Because your swapping parts id suggest new. Sorry not sure what size to suggest. Look to the hid retro sites....

 

[2old2ride]

Why can't you just use the adjusting screws?
I'm trying to figure out what side of the road you ride on has to do with anything. Yes the high beam is angled toward the curb side but the adjustment screw should have enough length to twist it back the other way.
The FZ-6 is a good bike but it is a budget bike, built to a price point. I can't see Yamaha building and keeping track of 2 different headlight screws when making one screw will do the job.
Of course, I might just be clueless. It has happened before. More then once if you listen to any of my X-wives.:spank:

 

[2old2ride]

Is that Fazer Baked or Roasted? Ala Mode?

 

[Motogiro]

Why can't you just use the adjusting screws?
I'm trying to figure out what side of the road you ride on has to do with anything. Yes the high beam is angled toward the curb side but the adjustment screw should have enough length to twist it back the other way.
The FZ-6 is a good bike but it is a budget bike, built to a price point. I can't see Yamaha building and keeping track of 2 different headlight screws when making one screw will do the job.
Of course, I might just be clueless. It has happened before. More then once if you listen to any of my X-wives.:spank:

They make two pretty different reflectors for countries that drive on the left. Too much of a difference to adjust out with the screws and also the lamps will also be swapped or opposite.

 

[2old2ride]

They make two pretty different reflectors for countries that drive on the left. Too much of a difference to adjust out with the screws and also the lamps will also be swapped or opposite.

Thank you. I didn't know that.

 

[Cloggy]

MKII rides a FZ6N (naked)

so he has a single headlight. as I understand it it's the glass that refracts (shapes) the beam, so if you add a new lens (glass) from a continental european lamp it should swap sides.

Jesper as I read your post, it seems that you want to fit your present UK lens (glass) to a broken continental lamp, which I think would have no effect as it's the lens that directs the beam.

As an example If you go from the UK to continental europe you should fit a headlight beam refractor like this one (hardly anybody does), and this changes the shape of the lens and so refracts the beam.

 

[Mkii]

MKII rides a FZ6N (naked)

so he has a single headlight. as I understand it it's the glass that refracts (shapes) the beam, so if you add a new lens (glass) from a continental european lamp it should swap sides.

Jesper as I read your post, it seems that you want to fit your present UK lens (glass) to a broken continental lamp, which I think would have no effect as it's the lens that directs the beam.

As an example If you go from the UK to continental europe you should fit a headlight beam refractor like this one (hardly anybody does), and this changes the shape of the lens and so refracts the beam.

the refractor pattern is in the reflector. i've checked it it will make difference
http://amhp.com.au/amhpshop/images/cy22_fz6n_2.jpg
look on that pic. u see that one of the lines have a quiet different angle. that's the problem between left handed and right-handed traffic reflectors. they have on different sides. this is what makes it pass the test.

 

[Mkii]

Pop it in the oven for 6min at 200F/94C and the sealant will soften enough to pull the "glass" right off.

It's "step 1" when doing a projector retrofit

Is this really safe?
the idea seems tempting.

 

[Cloggy]

the refractor pattern is in the reflector. i've checked it it will make difference
http://amhp.com.au/amhpshop/images/cy22_fz6n_2.jpg
look on that pic. u see that one of the lines have a quiet different angle. that's the problem between left handed and right-handed traffic reflectors. they have on different sides. this is what makes it pass the test.

Oops sorry, my bad i got this wrong :spank:
Good luck with the swap :thumbup:

 

[phranK2k11]

Safe, yes. 200/94 isn't nearly got enough to melt the plastic in that short of time. For that matter when it comes out you don't NEED gloves (pot holders) to handle it. For comfort sake, however, I did use them, and recommend you do to.

As I read you question I interpreted it as...
1) Your FZ6 has a headlight suited for driving/riding on the left side of the road and is in working order.
2)You have a headlight that came equipped on a FZ6 sold in a country that drives/rides on the right side of the road that has damage to the clear "glass" part.
3) You live in a country that drives/rides on the right side of the road.
4) you want to remove the "glass" from both headlights and swap them. Creating a headlight suited for operation in your country.

If this is correct, and they are from the same year, it will be an easy swap.

Post pics!!!!

 

[Mkii]

Safe, yes. 200/94 isn't nearly got enough to melt the plastic in that short of time. For that matter when it comes out you don't NEED gloves (pot holders) to handle it. For comfort sake, however, I did use them, and recommend you do to.

As I read you question I interpreted it as...
1) Your FZ6 has a headlight suited for driving/riding on the left side of the road and is in working order.
2)You have a headlight that came equipped on a FZ6 sold in a country that drives/rides on the right side of the road that has damage to the clear "glass" part.
3) You live in a country that drives/rides on the right side of the road.
4) you want to remove the "glass" from both headlights and swap them. Creating a headlight suited for operation in your country.

If this is correct, and they are from the same year, it will be an easy swap.

Post pics!!!!

you got me correct sir!!!
i have one more question. What do i do after i have popped the both glasses
i suppose
1: clean the "contact" surfaces
2: apply some sort of glue (rubber glue???) or even silicon? to make it stick and be harder for moist to get inside. or is there another solution?

3: Pictures will come. my lamp and bike is in sweden (at my parents place, where i live when i come to sweden) and i'm in Poland studying medicine.

HOWEVER, when i get back to sweden for my first Holiday i will popp it and quote some guys here to keep it updated, meanwhile i'll search for info and tips and tricks of how to assembly it in a good way

 

[MattR302]

Is this really safe?
the idea seems tempting.

Yes, but preheat the oven first - otherwise there may be hot spots well above 200F. When I did mine, it took closer to 15 mins at 200F.

 

[FinalImpact]

1: clean the "contact" surfaces
2: apply some sort of glue (rubber glue???) or even silicon? to make it stick and be harder for moist to get inside. or is there another solution?

3: Pictures will come. my lamp and bike is in sweden (at my parents place, where i live when i come to sweden) and i'm in Poland studying medicine.

HOWEVER, when i get back to sweden for my first Holiday i will popp it and quote some guys here to keep it updated, meanwhile i'll search for info and tips and tricks of how to assembly it in a good way

Same thing with cage lights. Remove all screws, clips, fasteners, and into the oven.

You can buy new butyl rope to assemble it with. It comes in different diameters. Because your swapping parts id suggest new. Sorry not sure what size to suggest. Look to the hid retro sites....

Figure out what size butyl rope you need. With clean surfaces, apply rope evenly to surface.
If you can lay the mole face up with the lens on it in the oven, this is best.
Preheat oven to 250F, turn it down to 200F, insert mole face up. Let it come up to temp say ~ 3 to 4 min. Remove and apply the fasteners promptly BUT SLOWLY AND EVENLY SO YOU DON'T Crack it!

On cage lamps I've preheated thicker sections BEFORE it goes in the oven (around a boss and at sharp corners), then throw it in the oven.

Use a HIGH WATTAGE hair dryer or commercial heat gun for trouble spots.

My suggestion on rope size to to do a test with a couple of 1" strips (25mm) and make sure its thick enough to fill the gap but thin enough to compress.

As stated above, look on an HID Retrofit site for butyl rope and the size. You need the right size as too thick and it won't close and you risk breaking parts.

Some have used a VERY thick bead of silicone. Its hell to take apart and takes a long time to cure. Use low acid type if you go this route.

 

[Mkii]

Figure out what size butyl rope you need. With clean surfaces, apply rope evenly to surface.
If you can lay the mole face up with the lens on it in the oven, this is best.
Preheat oven to 250F, turn it down to 200F, insert mole face up. Let it come up to temp say ~ 3 to 4 min. Remove and apply the fasteners promptly BUT SLOWLY AND EVENLY SO YOU DON'T Crack it!

On cage lamps I've preheated thicker sections BEFORE it goes in the oven (around a boss and at sharp corners), then throw it in the oven.

Use a HIGH WATTAGE hair dryer or commercial heat gun for trouble spots.

My suggestion on rope size to to do a test with a couple of 1" strips (25mm) and make sure its thick enough to fill the gap but thin enough to compress.

As stated above, look on an HID Retrofit site for butyl rope and the size. You need the right size as too thick and it won't close and you risk breaking parts.

Some have used a VERY thick bead of silicone. Its hell to take apart and takes a long time to cure. Use low acid type if you go this route.

i hope i can find that in sweden. It's some sort of rubber that u heat so it will get sticky and almost melt right?

Any extra things that i need to think about b4 i start working with the Rope?
i have a 2kw hot-air gun, is that too hot? 800deg celcius at peak

 

[FinalImpact]

i hope i can find that in sweden. It's some sort of rubber that u heat so it will get sticky and almost melt right?

Any extra things that i need to think about b4 i start working with the Rope?
i have a 2kw hot-air gun, is that too hot? 800deg celcius at peak

Go to Auto windshield replacement shop. They use that black butyl to hold in front glass. Just not sure if they have it that small dia.

You better use a diffuser or the gun with too much dwell time and things will melt. Oven is much safer.

But during install, you could heat the butyl bead while its on the mole to soften the butyl, drop the lens on and pop it in the oven. PLAY with new piece and see how it behaves w/your heat gun AWAY from the lens and mole.

 

[Mkii]

Go to Auto windshield replacement shop. They use that black butyl to hold in front glass. Just not sure if they have it that small dia.

You better use a diffuser or the gun with too much dwell time and things will melt. Oven is much safer.

But during install, you could heat the butyl bead while its on the mole to soften the butyl, drop the lens on and pop it in the oven. PLAY with new piece and see how it behaves w/your heat gun AWAY from the lens and mole.

okey, maybe i should go to the windshield with the lamp with the glass off and ask them for opinion of what they think i should pick for diameter etc. then ask for more length than i need so i can test a pice b4

:thumbup: