Overheating issue plz help

[fzsixx]

So I ran into my first problem today i was out for a ride and I was sitting at a long light when I noticed my coolant temp light came on and the temp gauge was flashing at me so I found a safe place to pull over and let it overheat again and I noticed the fan never came on and the bike was at 250 deg... So i got her home and as long as i was moving the temp was fine but if a sat to long it crept back up. Haynes manual said to check the fuse first so I did and the 20A fuse was blown I replaced the fuse and let her run and she overheated again all the way up to 250 deg and no fan any help would be great thanks guys -Matt

 

[motojoe122]

Can you spin the fan by hand? The reason I ask is because small rocks can get stuck in the fan blades causing it to get stuck. Something to look at:thumbup:

 

[megatronixs]

Ouch fzsixx, sounds kinda like your fan motor burned up. i saw a post a few weeks ago saying that the fan fuse rating was to high so if something got caught in the fan it would then not blow the fuse like it should, but then just burn the fan motor up. and then maybe blew the fuse after.

spin the fan by hand see if it spins freely or if something caught.
If it spins freely then find a multimeter or test light make sure the fan is getting power, if it spins and its getting power your fan may be dead.

 

[Motogiro]

So I ran into my first problem today i was out for a ride and I was sitting at a long light when I noticed my coolant temp light came on and the temp gauge was flashing at me so I found a safe place to pull over and let it overheat again and I noticed the fan never came on and the bike was at 250 deg... So i got her home and as long as i was moving the temp was fine but if a sat to long it crept back up. Haynes manual said to check the fuse first so I did and the 20A fuse was blown I replaced the fuse and let her run and she overheated again all the way up to 250 deg and no fan any help would be great thanks guys -Matt

Good possibility the fan motor is blown or jammed with a stone. Very common on the FZ6. Some one on our forum is experimenting with using a lower amp fuse to help save the fan in this type of event. If the fan is just jammed and still works try a 10 amp fuse instead of a 20 amp. Same if you need a new fan. Try a 10 amp. The fans don't draw any where near 20 amps and a 10 amp may be plenty.

See if you can turn it by hand..

 

[Ssky0078]

Ouch fzsixx, sounds kinda like your fan motor burned up. i saw a post a few weeks ago saying that the fan fuse rating was to high so if something got caught in the fan it would then not blow the fuse like it should, but then just burn the fan motor up. and then maybe blew the fuse after.

spin the fan by hand see if it spins freely or if something caught.
If it spins freely then find a multimeter or test light make sure the fan is getting power, if it spins and its getting power your fan may be dead.

I remember this thread as well, I think he ended up using a much lower amperage like 5 or 12. I can't remember the name of the thread.

 

[Ssky0078]

Hey if you're in Mesa I'd go to Apache Motorcycle if you end up going into a shop, stay away from RideNow as they tend to screw people over. Also Partshark I've found to be the best place to order parts so far.

 

[fzsixx]

Got an update for you guys as i was taking off the fan relay with some needle nose and wiggling it out i heard and saw the fan start to move right as i pulled out the relay lol i put it right back in and nothing... tested the relay with a 12v bat and heard the click but im not to sure how to use a DMM and check ohms so im not 100% its the fan since i heard it start up maybe the relay then?? -Matt

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can test the fan directly and run 12 volts to the terminals of the fan. It should kick on. If it works, the problem is elsewhere.


You didn't answer if you found anything JAMBING UP THE FAN ITSELF initially?

 

[YZF73]

Good possibility the fan motor is blown or jammed with a stone. Very common on the FZ6. Some one on our forum is experimenting with using a lower amp fuse to help save the fan in this type of event. If the fan is just jammed and still works try a 10 amp fuse instead of a 20 amp. Same if you need a new fan. Try a 10 amp. The fans don't draw any where near 20 amps and a 10 amp may be plenty.

See if you can turn it by hand..

Here's the thread:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/47469-replace-your-radiator-fan-fuse.html

I'm currently testing a 7.5A, as recommended by Motogiro a 10A is probably the best bet for now, just make sure you keep an eye on it and make sure you have another fuse handy if it happens to blow mid journey!


Yamahaboyz

 

[fzsixx]

You can test the fan directly and run 12 volts to the terminals of the fan. It should kick on. If it works, the problem is elsewhere.


You didn't answer if you found anything JAMBING UP THE FAN ITSELF initially?

oh sorry no there was nothing jamming up the fan or anything it will spin freely.

 

[Motogiro]

Got an update for you guys as i was taking off the fan relay with some needle nose and wiggling it out i heard and saw the fan start to move right as i pulled out the relay lol i put it right back in and nothing... tested the relay with a 12v bat and heard the click but im not to sure how to use a DMM and check ohms so im not 100% its the fan since i heard it start up maybe the relay then?? -Matt

I'll assume the fan is free and rotates by hand. As Scott said you can unplug the fan from the bike and run 12 VDC directly to confirm the motor works. When you do this test do it a few times to assure there isn't a dead short spot on the motor. I tried repairing one of these fans and the armature had a spot where it started fine intermittently but still had a spot that was shorted and ran very high current draw and then would dead short from some starting point.

The cooling system uses a thermistor type temperature sensor that is in a loop to and from the ECU. When this sensor is at a specific value the ECU allows current for the relay coil and current is then passed by the relay contact assembly to the fan. Do not apply voltages to these devices while they are plugged into the bike.

If you PM me your email address I'll get a trouble shooting package out to you now or this evening.

 

[fzsixx]

Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

As I said before the fuse is good tested voltage to the fuse with ignition on and off both checked good according to haynes. Also checked voltage to the relay and checked the relay itself for continuity both checked out fine. My task for today when i get off at three check the voltage to the fan and to the temp sensor check the ohms to the temp sensor and hook a 12v up to the fan and see if it works.......wish me luck......at least its been pouring rain here in AZ so im not missing out on riding.... -Matt

 

[JimStl]

Re: Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

Not my area of expertise, but I do remember reading a thread about how our bikes are venerable to small rocks getting up into the fan and causing it to lockup and then burn out. People were doing a pretty simple mod with wire mesh that would keep any debris out of the fan. Just FYI.
Best of luck with your bike!

 

[Ssky0078]

Re: Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

As I said before the fuse is good tested voltage to the fuse with ignition on and off both checked good according to haynes. Also checked voltage to the relay and checked the relay itself for continuity both checked out fine. My task for today when i get off at three check the voltage to the fan and to the temp sensor check the ohms to the temp sensor and hook a 12v up to the fan and see if it works.......wish me luck......at least its been pouring rain here in AZ so im not missing out on riding.... -Matt

Also, refresh my memory, I think your bike had low mileage and may have sat for awhile. When I was looking at buying bikes I talked to my local Yamaha service mechanic and he said that sometimes the radiator fluid will develop condensation from absorption through the pipes and turn the glycol into foamy gunky stuff that will plug up your radiator, hoses and everything. He said most people will get a few hundred miles after firing the bike up for the first time in a long time before this happens. Did you just start riding the bike or do a coolant flush and fill? Also consider that a flush and fill is supposed to be done every 24 months, are you due for one anyway?

You may be chasing electrical gremlins when it's a fluid issue. For $30 worth of coolant it's at least worth doing, especially if it may be due anyway.

Not my area of expertise, but I do remember reading a thread about how our bikes are venerable to small rocks getting up into the fan and causing it to lockup and then burn out. People were doing a pretty simple mod with wire mesh that would keep any debris out of the fan. Just FYI.
Best of luck with your bike!

I believe he said that he already checked that and the fan moved freely.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

Previous related thread:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/47722-overheating-issue-plz-help.html

It would be easier if you could keep everything on one thread, its a bit easier trying to help...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'll assume the fan is free and rotates by hand. As Scott said you can unplug the fan from the bike and run 12 VDC directly to confirm the motor works. When you do this test do it a few times to assure there isn't a dead short spot on the motor. I tried repairing one of these fans and the armature had a spot where it started fine intermittently but still had a spot that was shorted and ran very high current draw and then would dead short from some starting point.

The cooling system uses a thermistor type temperature sensor that is in a loop to and from the ECU. When this sensor is at a specific value the ECU allows current for the relay coil and current is then passed by the relay contact assembly to the fan. Do not apply voltages to these devices while they are plugged into the bike.

If you PM me your email address I'll get a trouble shooting package out to you now or this evening.

Cliff, the temp sensor, at the back of the engine, wouldn't that just make a ground (and activate the fan) once the higher temp (overheating) was reached? Nevermind, just looked at the wiring diagram, one line into the sensor, one wire out....

 

[Nelly]

I moved all of the posts back into the one thread to aid readability and problem solving. Hope you get it fixed soon. Importantly post up the resolution as this will be a great help to other forum members.

Neil:thumbup:

 

[yamihoe]

Re: Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

You may be chasing electrical gremlins when it's a fluid issue. For $30 worth of coolant it's at least worth doing, especially if it may be due anyway.

what kind of antifreeze do you buy???
a gallon of 50/50 (~$13 US) more than fills the fz.

I have tried that stay cool stuff by redline and royal purple....it DOES work, I noticed it takes less time to warm up now that I swapped to my winter blend of coolant.
I also have wired my fan to come on with a switch WITHOUT affecting the normal operation of the fan.

 

[Ssky0078]

Re: Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

what kind of antifreeze do you buy???
a gallon of 50/50 (~$13 US) more than fills the fz.

I have tried that stay cool stuff by redline and royal purple....it DOES work, I noticed it takes less time to warm up now that I swapped to my winter blend of coolant.
I also have wired my fan to come on with a switch WITHOUT affecting the normal operation of the fan.

I personally buy the Yamalube YamaCool. I know it's cliche to buy factory products because more expensive, blah, blah, blah, but I have 2 reasons.

1) It is a 60/40 coolant/water blend meaning that it has a higher boiling point than a 50/50 blend keeping the pressure on the plumbing and engine lower (my fan kicks on at 216 every time). I live in Arizona and have on a couple of warm days in the mid 70s already watched as I pulled off the freeway from a longer ride and watched the temp skyrocket to 225 and then work really hard to cool back down.

Copied this little table off of HowStuffWorks.com
Fluid - Freezing Point - Boiling Point
•Pure Water: 0 C / 32 F - 100 C / 212 F
•50/50 mix of C2H6O2/Water: -37 C / -35 F - 106 C / 223 F
•70/30 mix of C2H6O2/Water: -55 C / -67 F - 113 C / 235 F

2) It supposedly has ingredients to protect an aluminum engine parts as per the manuals instructions. I however am sure that ethlene glycol and water no matter who makes it will pretty much be the same but I like to follow directions.

The price does suck a little bit. It takes 2.2 L to fill the cooling system and the YamahCool is about $8/L. But, I'd rather put less stress on my bike for the extra $20 ($32 for gallon of YamaCool vs. $13 for 50/50 blend)

 

[JimStl]

Re: Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

I believe he said that he already checked that and the fan moved freely.

Yeah, sorry. Somehow I missed the whole first page of this thread. :spank: