Old FZ6 But New To Me

[Gary in NJ]

The only way to service the forks is to remove them. You can remove the caps (one at a time so the bike doesn’t fall on its face) to peek inside, but all you’ll see is gray oil.

I’ve always use EBC brake pads. They offer great feel and long life. On my TS-Z400 I installed a BraKing 320mm rotor so I decided to try the semi-metallic pads that they recommended to pair with the rotor. So far they work great (320mm rotor on a 290 pound bike....yeah I’ve got good brakes) but only time will tell how they wear.

 

[DeepBarney]

The only way to service the forks is to remove them. You can remove the caps (one at a time so the bike doesn’t fall on its face) to peek inside, but all you’ll see is gray oil.

I’ve always use EBC brake pads. They offer great feel and long life. On my TS-Z400 I installed a BraKing 320mm rotor so I decided to try the semi-metallic pads that they recommended to pair with the rotor. So far they work great (320mm rotor on a 290 pound bike....yeah I’ve got good brakes) but only time will tell how they wear.

I've got EBC HH pads and rotors on the front and rear of my Bonneville with stainless lines. The front is better, the rear is too quick to lock up. With the FZ6 being lighter and having much greater stopping power from the get go, I reckon semi metallic pads and possibly stainless lines will give the bike plenty of "woah" for for me. Plus there's the wear issue I mentioned. I'd rather wear down pads before rotors.

Braking seems more common in EU than here, and any reviews I've read have been favorable. So I'll give them a go.

 

[DeepBarney]

Can anyone confirm if this is an aftermarket cam chain adjuster and if it's the kind that's all manual/direct tensioner, or if it just preloads a spring style tensioner?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's aftermarket, manually adjusts the cam chain and there's NO spring inside it...

IMO, more trouble than it's worth..


.

 

[DeepBarney]

Alright, looks like I'll be sourcing an OEM style then

 

[Gary in NJ]

Not so fast there. The manual CCT is more reliable than the automatic unit. When the ACCT fails it takes the entire valve train with it. The MCCT only needs to be adjusted periodically.

 

[Ohendo]

Manual just needs to be checked periodically for proper tension; nothing wrong with it. Some guys I know will rip out the auto tensioner day 1 of ownership and replace with manual. (I still use my ACCT, full disclosure).

New OEM will set you back a cool $100.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just one more thing to have to keep after and potentially FU in the adjustment.

Pop in an OEM and never have to deal with it again..

The older original units sometimes had issues, not enough spring pressure. Being a "ratcheting style" , it's not like the internals would back off all together and let the chain flop about.

Do some research on the adjustment procedure and ONLY if your willing to check/adjust occasionally would I even consider it.

.

 

[DeepBarney]

I'll make sure it's adjusted and live when it for awhile before I replace it. If the adjustment procedure isn't too annoying and it can go oil change intervals before needing attention, then I may leave it on.

 

[DeepBarney]

Tonight I got the new battery put in and then re-filled the radiator/block with a water and citric acid solution. Fired it up with some fresh gas in the tank. After letting it come up to temp I fiddled with the idle adjuster until I got it to idle consistently at ~1100rpm. I wasn't able to get it to idle any higher though. Should it still keep increasing the idle speed the more I tighten that screw? Finally shut it off after 20 min run time. The temps rose to 212°F during that period but the fan kicked on and brought it back down to to 205°F pretty quick. Drained the system again and now it's just waiting for me to go get some more distilled water to flush it one more time with (straight water) so I can add the antifreeze.

Noticed an engine tick coming from the clutch side while working on it. I'll have to post a video to YouTube and copy a link so y'all can hopefully tell me its normal.

 

[DeepBarney]

Update: coolant has been staying clean. Replaced the rear shock , which was a bear thanks to the pin that goes through the lower mount. Got it out after several days of spraying it with PB Blaster and finally heating it with a little propane torch. Cleaned the pin and the hole, greased them up, and put it all back together with a lower mileage original (thanks again @Gary in NJ ). Found out two of the rear bolts on the hub for the rear wheel must be stripped because I couldn't loosen the nuts off, they just spin (lug bolt doesn't, I checked while using a box end wrench). So it looks like I'm off to flEbay to find a replacement hub. May try to repair the old one too. Anyone know if those studs/ lug bolts are threaded where they go into the hub?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The studs are just threaded in , part #16: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fz6-fzs6w/rear-wheel

You can drill/re-tap the hub for new threads and install SS threads.

Just an FYI, Yamaha calls for 72' lbs torque for those bolts. **After a long, heated discussion (couple years ago) on if these were too tight, I tested them and could get to 72 but it's awfully tight.

My last rear sprocket change, I think I stopped at 60' lbs. With the self locking nuts, it's not going anywhere.

I suspect someone did bring them up to 72, maybe more and now you see the results..

I wouldn't recommend going to 72, but that's your choice..

 

[Gary in NJ]

I believe that those bolts come from the factory with locktitie already applied. Therefore it would be appropriate to use a wet torque value - 85-90% or about 60 lb-ft.

 

[DeepBarney]

Thanks! I may see about rehab/replacing them. Though replacement hubs can be had for $20-30 on eBay which is a lot better than I thought they'd be. Plus all of the ones I saw included a free used sprocket bolted on and ready to go. haha

I reckon someone didn't use a torque wrench last time, or worse an impact. Thankfully the load is perpendicular to the clamping force, so even if I just rehab them I'll feel confident the sprocket is not going to divorce from the hub. Probably going to have to cut the old nuts off though. If I can't do so without cutting into the bolt it definitely means replacement time.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd personally replace those nuts as they are self locking...

It'd probably be ok but as cheap as they are, great insurance as you don't want the old one's possibly failing(especially after being over torqued)..

Just a thought..

 

[DeepBarney]

Oh yeah, all the nuts will be replaced and the bolts heavily scrutinized since they were all likely overtightened.

 

[DeepBarney]

Was able to get the nuts off with a cold chisel and wrench. While the threads didn't look great it appears the nuts bore the brunt of it, so I took the rest off along with the washers and sprocket. The rest of the studs were better, but still had the knife edge of the threads flattened from overtightening. So out came the m8x1.25 die, and all were lightly lubed and re-threaded. They're all quite serviceable now. I then found the best looking nut, chased the threads, and spun it on all the studs for a final check. Yep, this'll work. Going to grab some nuts at the hardware store today so I can slap it back together.

Will be putting them on with a wrench and choking up on it to avoid overtightening. Then I'll use the torque wrench and work up from 30ft/lbs by 10, doing a wrench check after each pass. Once they're torqued up as high as I feel comfortable going with them I'm going to mark nuts with a paint stick so I can see if any back off.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Those studs are annodized from the factory. By re-cutting them the finish is now removed and I'd be concerned that studs will rust over time, once again causing mechanical freezing. You can not coat them with never-seize to protect them, but I would consider a light primer. Or just accept the fact that if/when you need to change the sprocket in the future, you will have to cut the nuts/studs off.

 

[DeepBarney]

Those studs are annodized from the factory. By re-cutting them the finish is now removed and I'd be concerned that studs will rust over time, once again causing mechanical freezing. You can not coat them with never-seize to protect them, but I would consider a light primer. Or just accept the fact that if/when you need to change the sprocket in the future, you will have to cut the nuts/studs off.

Yeah I'm more or less expecting to replace the studs when I have to replace the rear sprocket, but I'll give em a shot of primer to hopefully provide some additional corrosion deterrent. Thanks for the heads up.

Why do you say never-seize can't be used? I wouldn't use it because the lubrication factor makes for a greater risk of accidentally overtightening and stripping the threads again.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Never-seize shouldn't be used because it will contaminate the thread lock, and the bolts will EASILY walk out. I'm ok using never-seize on the shank of a bolt and tread lock on the threads (I do that all of the time with lower links), but never use never-seize and thread lock on the threads together. About 30 years ago I did just that on the front caliper bolts on my KX125, and I didn't realize the mistake I made until I landed a double jump that went into a bermed left hand turn at Englishtown. My caliper was off the mounts and I had no front brake - luckily no one was standing on the other side of that berm because I turned it into another jump