Okay to Delay 600 Mile Maintenance?

[GreenToaster]

Hey,

I am going to the mountains this weekend and I will put ~250 miles on my machine. It has 550 on it now and I don't have time to take it to the shop.

I am capable of getting the oil, oil filter, kerosene and chain lube. I know how to change the oil and clean, lube and adjust the chain. Is there anything else that's "must do" by the dealer at 600 miles? Do they normally check valve adjustment or something else? If so, could I wait until I get a few more miles on the machine?

How essential would it be for me to get a 600 mile check by the dealer compared to doing the oil and chain myself?

Thanks,

GT

 

[dako81]

Do the oil and chain yourself. They don't check the valves or anything.

 

[The Toecutter]

just change the oil. adjust the cables and chain check the bolt's all over the machine and adjust tire pressure.valve clearance is'nt due till 24'000 miles

 

[GreenToaster]

Thanks - I'll get the oil filter, oil and some chain lube.

Anyone recommend oil and chain lube? I read the thread about oil filters - good info. Should I go with synthetic? I've never used synthetic oil before and I was told once you try it you shouldn't go back to "regular" oil.

I plan on keeping this machine for a long time - ten years, 100,000 miles.

Thanks

 

[kinderwood]

As for using synthetic I wholeheartedly recommend it. Read All About Motor Oil if you have time. Search the forum. Oil has been talked to death.

Once you use synthetic you can indeed go back to regular oil. Some people say that switching back to conventional used to give you issues with the seals. But this is only on older vehicles (like 80s). That's what I've heard, I can't back it up with and facts. However, it is totally 100% possible on modern vehicles. *Most* "synthetics" today are made from conventional stocks and have a different additive package added (there are full synthetics though).

So short answer, yes.

 

[Jedi]

As above, oil and filter is the most vital part as you want to get rid of any suspended metal particles in the oil caused by the running-in process. Your chain should be cleaned and lubed every couple of weeks anyway.

other than that, check your cables and retorque any critical fasteners such as engine mounts, swing arm, fork clamps, caliper mounts and axles.

 

[madmanmaigret]

this is what I have heard about the not being able to switch back and forth between synthetic and regular oils: (in my own words)

Back in the day synthetic oils were thinner so they put additives that made seals, etc swell to keep from leaking. Well now your seals were all stretched out and dino oil didn't have that addititve so when you switched back to dino oil the seals would leak. This is not a problem anymore because synthetic does not have those additives in them anymore. And if it is a problem, you can use "high mileage" oil because it also has the additives that swell seals to lessen oil consumption on older vehicles.



to the OP: I would do my oil/filter and chain clean/lube. Check your cables and like said before tighten any bolts you can get to (you have a torque wrench don't you?) the money that the shop will charge you to do that is not worth it IMO. :thumbup:

 

[GreenToaster]

Thank you everyone.

Rather than search for a place that sells kerosene and getting a container to put it in (to clean my chain) I purchased a can of chain cleaner (stupid, probably) and also got a Yamaha filter, Kawasaki 10W-30, and Motul Chain lube.

I'll do that stuff in the morning, before I head out. I'll post photos of the ride - will be meeting some folks from the area at Turner's corner ~noon.

I'll probably switch over to synthetic when I learn more and get to 3500 miles on the fizzix.

Thanks

 

[FZyLarry]

For a chain lube I like the DuPont Teflon in the aerosol can. It goes on "wet" and after about a minute it is kind of a dry waxy feel to it. It seems to be a good lube and rust preventative, doesn't attract dirt and doesn't fling off that much.

 

[GreenToaster]

I noticed better shifting after changing the oil. Also, the stuff that came out of it seemed "thick" and nasty green. Although I warmed it up before draining and I let it drain for at least 20 minutes, I think I'll change the oil again in another 1000 miles.

This bike is exceeding my expectations - the rear tire has finally got shred marks on the edges - it leans very well, even being "heavy" and having upright bars - I love this machine - really, really, really love it. It's the first inline four cylinder I've ever owned in 600 size. I've owned several "modern" street bikes and this is a great machine. Occasionally I'll have to whip it a bit more than my 900RR but I'm not complaining - I love it and I rode the snot out of it last Saturday - it performed flawlessly.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions - love the aluminum foil idea - I do that with my Nissan and Honda cars too.

Happy riding,

GT