Numerous issues, overheating, rising idle, drivability....

yamihoe

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Hey guys and gals, I've been away for a bit! ;):(
I've started having some serious issues with my baby lately, rampant overheating ( flushed once a year since I've owned it in 2010) the radiator has been cleaned and I verified it with my boroscope, cut the thermostat ( restricted opening but still open constantly) warmup time was extended by maybe a minute but still it gets hot sitting in traffic. Water pump is clean and clear, inlet and outlet temps drop through the radiator, upper and lower hoses. Fan comes on when commanded by the ecu and by my manual switch.

Onto my idle issue, started Sunday, starts up just fine, idles at 1310 just like it's done for the last 55,000 miles. Within 1/2 mile the idle is up to 3,000 and no way of getting it down. Twisting the throttle back drops it 500 rpms. Tps reads exactly 15 at idle (doesn't change when I twist the throttle back) and goes to 100% at WOT. The bike seems to ride fine, no hiccups in power, no stalling, cannot verify any change in fuel economy, no diag codes.

Both started within 2 weeks of each other and I haven't dug deep into the idle issue yet but I figured I'd start here for some brainstorming. Could a bad coolant temp sensor give the ecu implausible readings and its trying to warm the bike by idling up? Is there even a iac on these? Are there ohm specs for the coolant temp sensor? I have so little time to mess with it anymore but I need to make the time soon.

Thanks for reading ( I know it's long but I'm thorough) cliff? Scott, anything?
 

FinalImpact

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Sounds like an air leak.
Pull the air box and inspect all hoses!

It waits for the rpm to jump as its running rich at start up. Normal! So when it leans out like its supposed to as the temp goes up, then the issue of an air leak becomes more obvious and the lean mixture makes the RPM climb.

Explains most everything... a vacuum leak!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Just a couple of basic's first,


Quote "cut the thermostat ( restricted opening but still open constantly)" .

I'm not quite sure what that means. Has the thermostat been removed? If so replace it if it tests good (I'd just replace it with new) (its been working quite awhile), the bikes not designed to run without it and will cause issues. You need the thermostat to restrict water somewhat **so the radiator can cool it down**. Put that back in there, period(if not installed).

Also overlooked is the radiator cap. If it's failed, crappy, not a good seal, that'll cause over heating easily. Clean it real good first, may need replacement...

Check the temp sensor and make sure that hasn't failed if the thermostat is back in and there's still issues with heat.



Re the higher RPM's, check your throttle cable (for proper play) and especially where the cable attaches to the throttle body, (left side).
If the cable is too tight or frayed inside the outer cable will cause issues. Does the throttle plate fully close when acting up?
Does the throttle movement feel normal / any binding?

Can you turn the main idle screw (LS) down some and see if there's any effect in the idle?


We're assuming NOTHING else has been done prior to the issue, CORRECT?

If so, the above probably did not occur (covering all bases) and agreed with FI, a rubber hose, under the air filter assembly, with old age/heat, etc,
could have cracked causing a vacuum leak / lean condition and a high idle. Shouldn't be hard to find as a 3,000 rpm rise is pretty high. The syncing hoses also have plugs on them, make sure their in place and the 4 hoses are fully installed onto the TB's...

No tinkering would cause that to crack/split
 
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yamihoe

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Initially I had thought vacuum leak as well, but it tripped me up that it's so inconsistent. On my way home today the idle never got above 1610 the whole ride. throttle feels like it always has, no binding and its lubed. I know I have to pull the tank and look everything over, I'm going to have to find time for that after I fly half way across the country lol

This isn't the original thermostat, it's the third one since October. Cap is clean, although I should replace it anyways.

And yes, nothing else has been changed on the bike, just cleaned the chain and what I've already mentioned.

Great ideas, thanks!!!! I had hoped it would have just gone away lol
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The restricted opening of the thermostat, when you test it in a pot of hot water, is it opening fully?
And more curious, what happened that your "going thru" so many thermostats?

Do you have the shop manual and is the thermostat going back in correctly positioned and the bleed hole towards the top?

Also, try turning idle screw (LS accessible from the left side) out, CC, and see if that does anything.

Try bringing it down to 1,100 RPM, if it even does anything (doubtful from what you describe)...
 
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