No rear axle bolt alignment marks, why?

[Corsara]

I bought my FZ6 recently, and I noticed it doesn't have marks for aligning the rear wheel. What's up with that?

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Okay, in that set up, you just count the number of threads. That's assuming the bolts are the same length. Which you should be able to check. Then start with both nuts flush to the end of the bolt and tighten it down equal amounts (one turn left, one turn right, going down to quarter turns as you get close) until the chain is properly tensioned. Once that's done, screw down the lock nut on top.


The other way is to loosen everything up, find someone to hold the bike vertical and they'll hold the front wheel straight too. Then find two boards (or anything else that's long and straight and is tall enough to hit the side of the tire) and put them in tight with the rear wheel. One on each side. The clearance should be the same on each side of the front wheel.

 

[DownrangeFuture]

And looking at those pics, if the bolts are the same length, your rear wheel is crooked. Guys at the stealership like to torque both sides down because they think both sides will have the same torque if the wheel is even. Which isn't true at all.

Well, maybe not uneven, it's hard to tell. Either way, that's how you check.

 

[greg]

the blocks that the axle goes into have either been put in upside down or the wrong way around, i wouldn't rely on the marks too much though

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Yeah, they can be good, or they can be way off. So, while you're flipping your blocks around, pull the adjustment bolts and check to see if they're the same length, and use the top method. By doing that you can get the alignment to within a few micrometers and that's actually better than with one of those fancy laser alignment tools.

And once you've done that, check your alignment marks, if they're dead on, do it 2-3 times to make sure and then just use the alignment marks.

 

[Corsara]

Thanks! There is only one problem---after I bought it I wanted to adjust the chain slack, but no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't loosen that damn axle bolt...so I took it to the shop and they adjusted the tension for 20 bucks or so (I took it to a very reputable bike shop hereby)..

the blocks that the axle goes into have either been put in upside down or the wrong way around, i wouldn't rely on the marks too much though

If these blocks are indeed inserted the wrong way, do you think it influences the rideability of the bike? Should I have this corrected by all means?

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[Corsara]

Assume I manage to loosen up that damn axle nut, do I need to take the wheel off in order to flip the blocks, or it is simpler than that? Just want to make sure I am prepared to what I am getting into..

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[DownrangeFuture]

You'll have to remove the axle, so I guess if you had someone hold the tire in place, you wouldn't have to remove it. But yeah, it's coming off. Two bolts hold on the brake caliper, and the one big axle nut.

If you have a socket wrench that fits it, put it on the nut and kick the end of the wrench. It should break (or wink, 'cause, you know, if it'll wink it'll screw) and come off easily. That or get a cheater bar, which normally is a long piece of pipe that will fit over the handle of the wrench.

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Of course that means, get it as tight as you can with your wrench and give it a kick the other way to tighten it back up to torque.

 

[Corsara]

I'm at work now, but looking at my own pictures again, seems like the right side bolt looks longer because of the shadow that the camera flash made. In all cases, I can't wait for this damn slow work day to be over, so that I get home and do some measurements. I don't think I have a perfectly straight board, but I'll try to accomplish the same thing with a string, and will measure the distance from the front tire to the string while it's touching the rear in two places..

If I have to adjust this, I'll try to flip/switch these blocks (I'll force the axle nut with a cheaters pipe as suggested). Do they slide out to the side, or how?

Funny thing is that manual specifies 87 ft pound torque on the axle, and previously I tried unscrewing it with my torque wrench, which goes all the way up to 100 ft pound..apparently it's common to screw this damn thing with unreal forces..

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Yep, it's called an impact wrench. You can only use them on bolts that don't have a torque spec, or in the off direction only.

Doesn't stop mechanics. They're paid by the job and don't give a damn if it's too tight. Torquing down properly takes time.

 

[CCHOUSEKY]

Corsara, I've got one of these chain adjustment tools (I just bought it over the winter) and I couldn't be happier with it. It takes all the guesswork out of aligning the chain and, consequently, the rear tire. Just pop it on the top of your rear sprocket and sight down the rod until it's parallel with the chain. Of course, you still need to get your chain slack correct, but that's easy once you get everything aligned. I can't recommend it enough. :thumbup:

Motion Pro - Chain Alignment Tool

 

[skooter65]

+1 to the chain tool above.

Also, just as an FYI: You shouldn't use a torque wrench to remove bolts as it can, and will, destroy the calibration.

 

[greg]

i had problems getting my axle off, I was able to undo the bolt using a wrecking bar, but the axle was stuck firmly in place, so i let the tyre guys replace it

they didn't unscrew the chain adjust ment screws, and instead undid the axle bolt, and then used a hammer and a bar extender to drive the axle out. They then thouroughly lubed everythign up before reassembly. Make sure you undo your brake caliper, or you won't get the wheel back in.

You can keep the wheel still by putting the bike into gear

 

[Corsara]

Corsara, I've got one of these chain adjustment tools (I just bought it over the winter) and I couldn't be happier with it. It takes all the guesswork out of aligning the chain and, consequently, the rear tire. Just pop it on the top of your rear sprocket and sight down the rod until it's parallel with the chain. Of course, you still need to get your chain slack correct, but that's easy once you get everything aligned. I can't recommend it enough. :thumbup:

Motion Pro - Chain Alignment Tool

So let me see if I get this right: if the sprocket is perfectly aligned with the chain, that would imply that the whole rear tire is also perfectly aligned, yes?

 

[Corsara]

+1 to the chain tool above.

Also, just as an FYI: You shouldn't use a torque wrench to remove bolts as it can, and will, destroy the calibration.

Thanks for the tip. I tried just once (one pop at 100 ft lb), hope I didn't ruin the wrench.

 

[DownrangeFuture]

It depends on the type of wrench. The ones that break on the inside are usually okay, as long as you don't keep cranking on it when it breaks. Most torque wrenches are locked to one direction. Meaning they only ratchet in the wrong direction. The ones with the switch are usually okay as long as the torque doesn't exceed the maximum rated torque. And you then count that as a torque cycle once the bolt is off.

Or look into some of StrongArm's bi-directional torque wrenches. They're fine either way. But if it pops then it's a torque cycle.

I generally don't use them to take bolts off though. That's what regular wrenches are for.

 

[CCHOUSEKY]

So let me see if I get this right: if the sprocket is perfectly aligned with the chain, that would imply that the whole rear tire is also perfectly aligned, yes?

I will say generally...yes. That assumes that your sprockets are straight (aligned) correctly on the wheel, but I've yet to see anyone with that problem.

I think about it like this...the sprocket sits at a 90 degree angle to the axle. Because of this, the chain sits at the same 90 degree angle to the axle. So, based upon that, if your chain is aligned properly, then the rear wheel should be aligned properly.

But that's really over-complicating things...lol. My theory is, if the chain is aligned, then the rear wheel is aligned. :thumbup:

 

[Corsara]

It depends on the type of wrench. The ones that break on the inside are usually okay, as long as you don't keep cranking on it when it breaks. Most torque wrenches are locked to one direction. Meaning they only ratchet in the wrong direction. The ones with the switch are usually okay as long as the torque doesn't exceed the maximum rated torque. And you then count that as a torque cycle once the bolt is off.

Or look into some of StrongArm's bi-directional torque wrenches. They're fine either way. But if it pops then it's a torque cycle.

I generally don't use them to take bolts off though. That's what regular wrenches are for.

Mine is the click kind that has a switch to work both ways. However, I'm now confused about what is a "torque cycle" I used the wrench to screw in frame sliders, and I am afraid that if there is such thing as need to "reset" the torque wrench, my frame bolts might not be tightened up to specs, which could be dangerous I guess?!

 

[Corsara]

I will say generally...yes. That assumes that your sprockets are straight (aligned) correctly on the wheel, but I've yet to see anyone with that problem.

I think about it like this...the sprocket sits at a 90 degree angle to the axle. Because of this, the chain sits at the same 90 degree angle to the axle. So, based upon that, if your chain is aligned properly, then the rear wheel should be aligned properly.

But that's really over-complicating things...lol. My theory is, if the chain is aligned, then the rear wheel is aligned. :thumbup:

Wife dispatched to pick one of those tools then!