New clutch cable fitted - but now will not disengage

[Stradders]

Good afternoon all.

I appreciate there have been a few threads on above mentioned topic, but after reading probably all of them I am no closer to getting my bike working again.

So a few weeks back I am out on my way to my club meet, and at the lights, my lever under hand went very loose. Quick check and noticed it had frayed and was hanging on by a few threads. So about turn and get home!

I ordered a new cable (genuine part from a Yamaha Dealer) and attempt to fit.

Using the guide on this forum and my trusty haynes manual I fit the new cable with the center adjustment almost fully in to give my self the most amount free play allowing me to use have the hand lever end adjuster screwed all the way in. My thinking was by doing that all my future adjustment would be done at the hand lever.

So, the routing is the same as the old cable and I have connected the barrel ends.

The clutch action at the hand lever is very light and when releasing the slave lever does not snap all the way back.

so I try a few other adjustments combinations and still have the same issue.

When i start the bike, in nuetral, front break on, clutch lever pulled in, kick into first, and bike wants to pull forward, so the clucth is not fully disengaging.

I have even removed the slave lever, and moved it 1 or 2 splines on the shaft.

At every point and combination, the clutch never disengages.

It was all fine with the old cable which makes me think there is nothing wrong with the clutch, but i am clearly doing something wrong with the cable adjustment.

I fear with my tuning, and moving the slave lever, that I have made a right old mess of it....

Any suggestions anyone?

 

[iSteve]

Your problem was turning the cable adjustment all the way in. It should start about half way and then you can make your initial adjustment. Put the slave lever back where it should be and turn the cable adjustment to the center and lever adjustment to a few turns out. Adjust the center adjustment so the clutch is working properly and put everything back to together.

 

[Motogiro]

The clutch assemble with fully engage itself it there is no tension on the slave lever. It doesn't take that much movement of the that slave lever for disengagement. There is also a return spring on that slave lever. With that lever in place and the cables adjusted you should only have a small movement at the control lever before the cable starts to pull the slave lever in. If not, your cable sheath length must be increased. If you can't get the slack out of the cable by adjusting the thumb wheel at the control lever, then you will need to expand the center adjustment in the middle of the cable assembly to get the slack out.

Hopefully it's just a matter of cable slack adjustment and not an actual clutch problem.

 

[regder]

Impossible to say without seeing it. The clutch cable only has three points that matter. The barrel at the lever, barrel at the slave lever, and the shiny metal clutch cable holder above the clutch cover. I'd guess the holder isn't sitting right as that's what holds the sheath and gives you tension on the cable.

 

[Stradders]

Thanks guys for the information. I will have another go tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

 

[dschult2]

Your problem was turning the cable adjustment all the way in. It should start about half way and then you can make your initial adjustment.

+1. You should only have it screwed all the way in if you have Killernoodle's extended clutch slave lever. If it's screwed all the way in with a stock lever you're giving yourself too much slack.

 

[regder]

+1. You should only have it screwed all the way in if you have Killernoodle's extended clutch slave lever. If it's screwed all the way in with a stock lever you're giving yourself too much slack.

When I replace my clutch cable (twice now on this bike), I adjust the secondary adjuster under the airbox so the lever adjuster is almost all the way in. This way, when the cable stretches after 5k miles I can adjust it at the lever without having the adjuster all the way out.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Impossible to say without seeing it. The clutch cable only has three points that matter. The barrel at the lever, barrel at the slave lever, and the shiny metal clutch cable holder above the clutch cover. I'd guess the holder isn't sitting right as that's what holds the sheath and gives you tension on the cable.

There is indeed a mid cable adjuster as noted in the other posts. See part #1:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST STEERING HANDLE CABLE Diagram

As posted above, the outer sheath should be adjusted out to take out the play.. The short lever, as Cliff noted, moves very little and a small spring pulls the short, clutch arm back (above the clutch).

Your issue is you have too much free play. Once its tightened up, you'll be fine.


Double click on the pic to enlarge it...

 

[Stradders]

So, little update. After ripping it all out and starting again it was just down to adjustment and moving the slave lever back to the original position got it sorted! A voyage of discovery but got there in the end.
Thanks everyone for all your input! Very much appreciated!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So, little update. After ripping it all out and starting again it was just down to adjustment and moving the slave lever back to the original position got it sorted! A voyage of discovery but got there in the end.
Thanks everyone for all your input! Very much appreciated!!

Kinda late now, but if your in the area of the plastic retainer clip inside the left frame rail, just remove it.

It makes changing the cable, pulling it halfways out to adjust the mid-adjuster MUCH easier too. Changing the cable now, does NOT REQUIRE lifting the tank, removing the air box, etc.

It isn't going anywhere, I took mine out years ago. :thumbup: