Mark3d 4 D34th
Junior Member
SDNATIVE, Did you use the two parking lights on the top of the headlight? or just cover them? just wondering if you did get them to work what you used for bulb sockets
Naked never felt so good - lots of details
- Thread starter sdnative
- Start date
Mudkipz137
Member
SDNATIVE your bike has inspired me. I really wanna do this now. My question for you, do you ever miss having the windshield for riding around?
sdnative
Junior Member
Ya, the FZ1 left a lot to be desired I also thought. I couldn't bring myself to pay ~$140-160 for it from the factory.
sdnative
Junior Member
Ya, I looked for a bit on stay parts ...was feeling like a waste of time after a couple hours, and couldn't bring myself to shell out so much $ for a part I could make in the shop
Thanks also!
sdnative
Junior Member
I didn't connect those to anything. I guess I could have wired the headlamp a little differently and put some bulbs in there ...but... I really wanted the headlight on 100% of the time anyway, so just went my route. Sorta a work around.
sdnative
Junior Member
Awesome to hear! It really makes the bike more fun to ride in the canyons ...but ....on the FWY, it pretty much sucks
I kept the old fairing, so if I do long multi-day trips in the future I will put it back on (one of the reasons I didn't want to mod the wire harness).
It's pretty tough to break 100mph now w/o feeling like you will get blown off. Riding at 80mph for hours is a work out.
You get used to it ....being manly that is
sdnative
Junior Member
Need more inspiration?? This weekend at Palomar MTN :BLAA:
sdnative
Junior Member
... so the saga continues....
Next came mounting up the light assembly. I didn't take as many photos, I was rushing to beat darkness, so hope it's still clear enough.
Parts and tools:
1" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock - 12 inch bar more than enough
1/4-20 button head stainless allens - 2 that are 1.25" in length, 2 that are 1.75" in length (upper ones), and several washers to stack up as shims, and nylon lock nuts x 4.
10/32 button head SS screws - 4 screws, 5/8" long + washers and lock nuts.
Mount hoops and rubber as listed previously - you need to cut 1" strips from the rubber sheet. The 2008 has a 43mm diameter fork as i recall, not sure on other years. You may need thicker rubber for a thinner fork tube... or stack two layers I guess.
The final setup looks like this from the side.
This gives you an idea of the how the tabs mount (this was just a mock up, finished parts were nicer). Bottom ones face inward, tops face out. The lower tabs are 1-3/4" from the top of the lower fork clamp (if measuring inward-edge to inward-edge of each part)
I cut some mount tabs from the Aluminum bar. You can see them in this photo, to the left of the light. The lower ones have holes spaced 1" apart, while the uppers have a slotted hole to allow for adjusting the final position a little bit. The upper have a distance that can be adjusted from 1/2-to-3/4" apart if measured on hole centers. Drill holes accordingly to allow for the 1/4-20 and 10/32 screws to pass though.
In the photo above, check out the large washers I have stacked on the top TACH mount stud. You need a few here, as on the the stock part the mount plate is offset about 1/4" from the other two mounts. This actually comes in handy, as you can add or remove washers to adjust the final angle of the TACH. There are 3 large flat button head allens that you removed from the fairing earlier, these are used to mount the cover to the TACH, after you have used the coarse plastic screws secure the TACH itself to the mount plate with rubber grommets. (Note: The screws for the cover will need some elbow grease, as you they are making new threads in the plastic when you screw them in)
Bulb and wiring. Pull a bulb from your old headlight set and install it using the reverse of the removal method (there is a little hook to unhook the spring) I plugged the main plug to the bulb so it's always on on my naked; I didn't bother with the little running lights as I always want the headlight on. This bulb appears to be a double filament, so I suppose it's possible to get little creative and wire that second filament up if you wanted a hi-low beam etc. Maybe search the boards for this. Honestly, the single light sucks so bad I don't think I would want to ride at night with it other than down a freeway where other cars are lighting the road. I am a total lighting snob though so that's worth keeping that in mind as far as that comment goes. Or, you could probably mod this with a HID projector setup like other have mentioned. I don't plan to ride at night with this rig.
Loose wires get zip tied together into a little peanut looking bundle and stuffed to the side next to the fork. The horn I reattached to the original location. After a little flat lack spray paint it almost 100% vanishes.
Mounting process.
1) Install the fork hoops, rubber strips and mount tabs. The lower hoop is 1-3/4 from the lower tripple measuring edge-to-edge. The upper is then 5" above these if you measure between the screw holes. Note above photos for reference.
2) Install the dash panel. Measure from each panel tab to the fork tube to make sure you have it on straight, then tighten it on down with the screw underneath the upper tripple.
3) Mount the lamp assy on the lower 2 mounts, so the light is swung outward and you have easy get access to the wires. Wait to tighten these obviously.
4) Dangle the horn wires out the bottom of the light for later hookup. Pull the tach plug upward for later hookup as well.
5) Attach the turn signal plugs, then zip tie together (or electrical tape) all the loose harness wires together and stuff them in place beside the head tube (not much room when it's all done)
6) Plug the light in, and turn the bike on to make sure you have the correct plug hooked up (the one that lights w/o the high beam switch on).
7) Next, rotate the light upward and attach the upper 2 mount screws (this is fun). Some wires may need to be pushed out of the way etc. The plastic brackets on the light sit right under the upper fork tripple if you did things right. If all looks good with the angle, screw all the mount screws down (don't go to hard here, thats why you used lock nuts after all)
8) Mount the tach, screw it down then mount the cover.
9) Mount and hookup the mount the horn in the factory spot.
10) Start it up and adjust the light angle. There are two screws that move the light bulb up-down and side-side (they have jagged edges) . You can get screw access if you turn the handle bars all the way to the side. Finding center becomes trial and error.
Thats it for now I think ....mirrors, fender eliminator project, and new turn signals to follow.
-Chris
Next came mounting up the light assembly. I didn't take as many photos, I was rushing to beat darkness, so hope it's still clear enough.
Parts and tools:
1" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock - 12 inch bar more than enough
1/4-20 button head stainless allens - 2 that are 1.25" in length, 2 that are 1.75" in length (upper ones), and several washers to stack up as shims, and nylon lock nuts x 4.
10/32 button head SS screws - 4 screws, 5/8" long + washers and lock nuts.
Mount hoops and rubber as listed previously - you need to cut 1" strips from the rubber sheet. The 2008 has a 43mm diameter fork as i recall, not sure on other years. You may need thicker rubber for a thinner fork tube... or stack two layers I guess.
The final setup looks like this from the side.
This gives you an idea of the how the tabs mount (this was just a mock up, finished parts were nicer). Bottom ones face inward, tops face out. The lower tabs are 1-3/4" from the top of the lower fork clamp (if measuring inward-edge to inward-edge of each part)
I cut some mount tabs from the Aluminum bar. You can see them in this photo, to the left of the light. The lower ones have holes spaced 1" apart, while the uppers have a slotted hole to allow for adjusting the final position a little bit. The upper have a distance that can be adjusted from 1/2-to-3/4" apart if measured on hole centers. Drill holes accordingly to allow for the 1/4-20 and 10/32 screws to pass though.
In the photo above, check out the large washers I have stacked on the top TACH mount stud. You need a few here, as on the the stock part the mount plate is offset about 1/4" from the other two mounts. This actually comes in handy, as you can add or remove washers to adjust the final angle of the TACH. There are 3 large flat button head allens that you removed from the fairing earlier, these are used to mount the cover to the TACH, after you have used the coarse plastic screws secure the TACH itself to the mount plate with rubber grommets. (Note: The screws for the cover will need some elbow grease, as you they are making new threads in the plastic when you screw them in)
Bulb and wiring. Pull a bulb from your old headlight set and install it using the reverse of the removal method (there is a little hook to unhook the spring) I plugged the main plug to the bulb so it's always on on my naked; I didn't bother with the little running lights as I always want the headlight on. This bulb appears to be a double filament, so I suppose it's possible to get little creative and wire that second filament up if you wanted a hi-low beam etc. Maybe search the boards for this. Honestly, the single light sucks so bad I don't think I would want to ride at night with it other than down a freeway where other cars are lighting the road. I am a total lighting snob though so that's worth keeping that in mind as far as that comment goes. Or, you could probably mod this with a HID projector setup like other have mentioned. I don't plan to ride at night with this rig.
Loose wires get zip tied together into a little peanut looking bundle and stuffed to the side next to the fork. The horn I reattached to the original location. After a little flat lack spray paint it almost 100% vanishes.
Mounting process.
1) Install the fork hoops, rubber strips and mount tabs. The lower hoop is 1-3/4 from the lower tripple measuring edge-to-edge. The upper is then 5" above these if you measure between the screw holes. Note above photos for reference.
2) Install the dash panel. Measure from each panel tab to the fork tube to make sure you have it on straight, then tighten it on down with the screw underneath the upper tripple.
3) Mount the lamp assy on the lower 2 mounts, so the light is swung outward and you have easy get access to the wires. Wait to tighten these obviously.
4) Dangle the horn wires out the bottom of the light for later hookup. Pull the tach plug upward for later hookup as well.
5) Attach the turn signal plugs, then zip tie together (or electrical tape) all the loose harness wires together and stuff them in place beside the head tube (not much room when it's all done)
6) Plug the light in, and turn the bike on to make sure you have the correct plug hooked up (the one that lights w/o the high beam switch on).
7) Next, rotate the light upward and attach the upper 2 mount screws (this is fun). Some wires may need to be pushed out of the way etc. The plastic brackets on the light sit right under the upper fork tripple if you did things right. If all looks good with the angle, screw all the mount screws down (don't go to hard here, thats why you used lock nuts after all)
8) Mount the tach, screw it down then mount the cover.
9) Mount and hookup the mount the horn in the factory spot.
10) Start it up and adjust the light angle. There are two screws that move the light bulb up-down and side-side (they have jagged edges) . You can get screw access if you turn the handle bars all the way to the side. Finding center becomes trial and error.
Thats it for now I think ....mirrors, fender eliminator project, and new turn signals to follow.
-Chris
Last edited:
Mudkipz137
Member
Yes, very inspiring indeed, although the thought of all that wind resistance at 100+ isn't that appealing.... Oh well! Gotta have fun right?
Nice write-up too. When I get my kit from Dev_USC and start doing my mods I'll be posting them up too.
One question, one member posted a pic without front fender on and I actually liked it. Would it pose a threat to bike to take both fenders off completely? (I'm thinking mainly the radiator in front from rocks and such coming off the tire)
Thanks
Mud
Nice write-up too. When I get my kit from Dev_USC and start doing my mods I'll be posting them up too.
One question, one member posted a pic without front fender on and I actually liked it. Would it pose a threat to bike to take both fenders off completely? (I'm thinking mainly the radiator in front from rocks and such coming off the tire)
Thanks
Mud
Sco
Junior Member
Sweet! Thanks for the post, I really love the FZ8, now you need some gold forks.
Mark3d 4 D34th
Junior Member
Chris, Great write up. Are you using the high-beam or did you just leave it out? Regular beam only?
I Like your bikes look so I decided to order everything and do the same. Hope you don't mind but I will be stealing almost everything.
I Like your bikes look so I decided to order everything and do the same. Hope you don't mind but I will be stealing almost everything.
kimocal
Junior Member
Looking good Chris:thumbup:
sdnative
Junior Member
No hi beam, although you might find a post in this form on how to wire the second filament up ...as I recall the bulb I pulled had two filaments, and the harness was only wire to one of them.
Steal away, if it was a secret and I didn't want people to borrow on my hard work wouldn't have posted. Good luck too!
Mirrors and LED turn signals should be here any day, so more info to follow (that eBay company linked ships really fast from HK!!).
sdnative
Junior Member
So just wrapped up the fender eliminator ...turned out pretty nice actually.
(Read about it here)
Teaser pics
Street fighter mirrors to follow....
Stock exhaust glass pack mod to follow ... (get some rumble on the cheap)
(Read about it here)
Teaser pics
Street fighter mirrors to follow....
Stock exhaust glass pack mod to follow ... (get some rumble on the cheap)
sdnative
Junior Member
Last little bits of info ...
Turn signals are done, and added a mirror. I like them; wedgy like a Triumph speed tripple, also matches the FZ1N headlight style.
Cut the wires off about two inches from the stock connectors. I didn't hook up the blue running lamp wires, as the LED turns didn't have this hookup (looks stupid lit orange anyway, so hey). Notice the offset of the wire solder point, so can wrap in one pass with electrical tape.
These little metal tabs sandwich the FZ1N brackets, as the design is for the rubber stock blinker setup. One on either side, and tighten the bolt down.
Waaaay smaller than stock, and these blinkers are VERY bright so for sure get the job done on letting other drivers you're about to cut them off.
Mirrors. Mounted one. Drilled and tapped the stock mount that is part of the brake assembly. The hardware that comes with them had a bolt that was too long so had to cut about 1/4" off if it. These mirrors are nice actually otherwise. No rubber mount so I was worried about mirror shake, but they are crystal clear at hwy speed. I'll probably pick up a generic bar mirror mount for the other side off eBay or such. I looked at a few mount options, but this above grip location is the best as you can actually use the mirror at normal speed. They work better than the stock in this regard, as I always had to tuck my arm inward to actually see behind me with the stock ones. No need now.
Back
Front
Bout it for a while ...will tack on projects as they come up!!
Turn signals are done, and added a mirror. I like them; wedgy like a Triumph speed tripple, also matches the FZ1N headlight style.
Cut the wires off about two inches from the stock connectors. I didn't hook up the blue running lamp wires, as the LED turns didn't have this hookup (looks stupid lit orange anyway, so hey). Notice the offset of the wire solder point, so can wrap in one pass with electrical tape.
These little metal tabs sandwich the FZ1N brackets, as the design is for the rubber stock blinker setup. One on either side, and tighten the bolt down.
Waaaay smaller than stock, and these blinkers are VERY bright so for sure get the job done on letting other drivers you're about to cut them off.
Mirrors. Mounted one. Drilled and tapped the stock mount that is part of the brake assembly. The hardware that comes with them had a bolt that was too long so had to cut about 1/4" off if it. These mirrors are nice actually otherwise. No rubber mount so I was worried about mirror shake, but they are crystal clear at hwy speed. I'll probably pick up a generic bar mirror mount for the other side off eBay or such. I looked at a few mount options, but this above grip location is the best as you can actually use the mirror at normal speed. They work better than the stock in this regard, as I always had to tuck my arm inward to actually see behind me with the stock ones. No need now.
Back
Front
Bout it for a while ...will tack on projects as they come up!!
ckerd
Junior Member
We're did u get the mount hoops? I can't seem to find them anywhere.
joshiepoogoose
member
where did you get the signals?
Mark3d 4 D34th
Junior Member
What did you end up getting to mount the other mirror?? Just curious cause I am not sure what to use myself.
Guitar Man
Keep moving!!!!
I really like your fender eliminator.
sdnative
Junior Member
mc master carr ...google it. P/N is on page 1 of the post.