My Fazer as Died!

[Yammi Dodger]

Engine management light came on today followed by the ABS light. Bike still running ok then all clocks went dead no display of any kind. Bike still running ok then engine cut out managed to turn off onto a steep bank rolled down and tried to bump start but nothing doing.

Bike now back home waiting to be picked up and checked over. What is crossing my mind now, could this be the ECU unit packing up or hopefully something less costly.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Dead short in the battery comes to mind. With a dead short, its not like there's low voltage, there's NO voltage... If you have a voltage tester, check the battery, you should have about 12.8 across the terminals with no load. Cranking, it'll drop a little bit.

I seriously doubt its anything big..

Good luck and please post what the issue was..

 

[Ssky0078]

My thought is you possibly got a short somewhere and blew a couple of fuses.

 

[DavesFZ]

Re: Re: My Fazer as Died!

My thought is you possibly got a short somewhere and blew a couple of fuses.

Check the fuses in the right side fairing under the seat. A couple weeks ago a member had weird stuff going on after a full lock turn which was a dead fuse. He had just done a naked conversion that caused some wires to pinch/short out by the forks.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/showthread.php?p=530204

 

[Motogiro]

Sounds like your charging system was failing. Check battery connections and then check battery voltage. Fuses don't blow slowly so if there was a short it probably would have happened very quickly. You seem to have some other anomalies that preceded total failure. If the charging system failed your battery voltage would start dropping and eventually not be able to run anything on the bike. The ECU is not programmed to tell you exactly what is failing and may just throw the check engine light on. Usually you'll get an er-1 code with very low voltage unless you have the Hal 9000 ECU which might sound like this:

2001: A Space Odyssey (1968)
HAL: I've just picked up a fault in the AE35 unit. It's going to go 100% failure in 72 hours.

HAL: I am putting myself to the fullest possible use, which is all I think that any conscious entity can ever hope to do.

[Regarding the supposed failure of the parabolic antenna on the ship, which HAL himself falsified]
HAL: It can only be attributable to human error.

Dave Bowman: Hello, HAL. Do you read me, HAL?
HAL: Affirmative, Dave. I read you.
Dave Bowman: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
Dave Bowman: What's the problem?
HAL: I think you know what the problem is just as well as I do.
Dave Bowman: What are you talking about, HAL?
HAL: This mission is too important for me to allow you to jeopardize it.
Dave Bowman: I don't know what you're talking about, HAL.
HAL: I know that you and Frank were planning to disconnect me, and I'm afraid that's something I cannot allow to happen.
Dave Bowman: [feigning ignorance] Where the hell did you get that idea, HAL?
HAL: Dave, although you took very thorough precautions in the pod against my hearing you, I could see your lips move.
Dave Bowman: Alright, HAL. I'll go in through the emergency airlock.
HAL: Without your space helmet, Dave? You're going to find that rather difficult.
Dave Bowman: HAL, I won't argue with you anymore! Open the doors!
HAL: Dave, this conversation can serve no purpose anymore. Goodbye.

If you have low voltage at the battery, I would charge the battery and see if the bike starts. Do not jump start the bike from a car while the car engine is running. You can jump start the bike from a car battery. If the bike starts and runs while hooked to another vehicles battery then charge the bike battery (not from a car!). Start the bike off the charged battery and then look at the voltage at the battery. At 2-3000 RPM you should see a rise in voltage. 13 VDC plus is good. If you see the voltage decreasing, the charging system is not charging.

We have tons of write ups on testing your stator. Use the search for the procedure. If your stator passes the Ohm/resistance test you can suspect the regulator rectifier. Check the regulator plug and make sure the pins look good. If all looks well with plugs and wiring and the stator and battery then it will probably be the regulator/rectifier.

Hope this helps!

 

[Yammi Dodger]

Just like to thank everyone for taking time out and giving me some great feed back. Got a good mechanic picking the bike up on Saturday to check everything out for me, as I am totally useless with electrics. Normally when I get to check things out I normally make the problem worse. So keeping well away, as soon as he gets back to me I will let you all know what the problem is. :thumbup:

 

[Yammi Dodger]

Hi all, Mechanic been in touch told me Battery will not hold charge any more plus Rectifier as packed in. Ordered new battery & Rectifier he will fit them on Saturday when they arrive. Told me that this normally sorts the problem out but if not could be problem with the Generator. Hope to get the bike back early next week as the garage as been closed for a few days so he's trying is best to get this problem sorted for me. When I do pick the bike up will let you know exactly what work as been carried out. :thumbup: Ps......Motogiro you seem pretty spot on with your description thanks.

 

[Yammi Dodger]

Picked bike up this morning had a chat with the mechanic, told me new rectifer fitted and battery. Got power back on with loads of error codes coming up, cleaned all contacts off and refitted back on, and deleted all error codes. Restarted bike checked ECU for any errors again, which he said came up clean.

Told me that should have sorted it out now, as no warning lights or errors are showing so fingers crossed now. Like I said before not to clued up on electrics but will probably make more sence to you guys. :thumbup: