month old '09 fz6 battery dead

[sohail]

I came back from san diego yesterday, so the bike was unridden for a total of about a week. Now, when I first started it, it started normally. I took it around the block a couple of times just to quench my riding urge. I then proceeded to go across town. I arrived at a red light and I hit the kill switch. I always do this at long duration red lights. But the bike starts up every time.

However, this time the bike just didn't want to turn on again. It gave me lots of clicks. The LCD flickered and turned off. After I ceased pushing the ignition switch the lcd screen came back on. However, the bike did not start.

I just pulled over and called a friend to pick me up and take the bike back home...

Well, I'm taking it to a dealer tomorrow to have a look over the battery.

My question is, how can this have been prevented? Do you guys think the battery is defective? Can the dealer not have the battery replaced under warranty due to me not buying my fz6 from them?

Also, aside from a battery tender, what else should I do/get so that this kind of problem doesn't occur on a regular basis?

 

[iSteve]

I think you broke the kill switch and the battery is fine. Is to prevent don't shut it off every time you come to a red light.

 

[sohail]

I think the killswitch is fine. In off position, the ignition doesn't occur at all. In on position, the engine tries to turnover, but it seems as if it doesn't have enough power.

Thanks for the help!

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Your battery probably had enough juice to bump start it. Meaning roll the bike in neutral with the iginition key on and the kill switch in the on position and then jam it into first then pop the clutch while the bike is rolling. Helps big time if your on an incline or hill.

 

[Motogiro]

It sounds like you killed the battery. Each time you use the starter it draws more current instantly than anything else on the bike. It takes quite a bit of riding above 2k RPM to replenish just one start. So if this is your practice especially in stop n go traffic you may have done in the battery.

If you have a spot to plug in, save your service charge and get a tender. Let it charge over night. Stop turning it off at stops. The battery may be recoverable.
The best way is to have it fully charged and load tested.

 

[iSteve]

I think the killswitch is fine. In off position, the ignition doesn't occur at all. In on position, the engine tries to turnover, but it seems as if it doesn't have enough power.

Thanks for the help!

In that case maybe the frequent restarts just wore down the battery.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Another related battery topic, during the night, I notice that the power of my lights is dictated by my rpms. Is this normal or should the beam of the light remain constant, idleling and while riding?

Weak battery? Bad alternator/stator?

 

[Motogiro]

Another related battery topic, during the night, I notice that the power of my lights is dictated by my rpms. Is this normal or should the beam of the light remain constant, idleling and while riding?

Weak battery? Bad alternator/stator?

That may be normal for a 1 or 2 volt fluctuation but your battery may need checking because the shunt regulator should be fairly close to the top off voltage of the battery. Charge it all up and get it load tested. It really is the best way to see what the battery's performance is.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

That may be normal for a 1 or 2 volt fluctuation but your battery may need checking because the shunt regulator should be fairly close to the top off voltage of the battery. Charge it all up and get it load tested. It really is the best way to see what the battery's performance is.

Thanks, easier said than done, as my bike is my only ride. Take the battery out, no ride. It's currently is on a battery tender, but after less than an hour, it's got the green light.

 

[dxh24]

Another related battery topic, during the night, I notice that the power of my lights is dictated by my rpms. Is this normal or should the beam of the light remain constant, idleling and while riding?

Weak battery? Bad alternator/stator?

My four wheeler had this issue until i replaced the battery, which i ran in it until it wouldn't even pull start.... would start up could see but not well, get her moving and the lights would get brighter.... think it might just be time for a new battery.

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks, easier said than done, as my bike is my only ride. Take the battery out, no ride. It's currently is on a battery tender, but after less than an hour, it's got the green light.

You'd have to go to like O'rielly's (?) and lift your tank. They should be able to just connect and load test in the lot.

 

[sohail]

I wish I knew about that bump starting technique.

Should I just wait and get a battery tender? I have no idea whether or not the service department is going to charge me or not...

 

[turbid]

i would get a battery tender, it ll pay for itself in the short run. i guess the battery is easily recoverable, and yes stopping and swithching it on again on short runs without going on 4k rpm where the charging system starts pumping (i didnt know this i learned it on this fantastic forum:thumbup you will easily overpower the battery

 

[RJ2112]

I wish I knew about that bump starting technique.

Should I just wait and get a battery tender? I have no idea whether or not the service department is going to charge me or not...

There's a very good chance your battery is fine.....almost everyone runs the battery flat in the first year of riding, at least once.

Bump starting is pretty easy. You are using your legs, and the bike's forward momentum to replace the energy consumed by the starter when you hit the button standing still.

1) turn on the ignition. If you hear the fuel pump whine, and then stop you have enough juice to bump start the bike. (very likely in your case, as it would try and turn over)

2) put the bike in second or third gear, and pull in the clutch.

3) if you have any friends that are willing, stay on the bike and have them push you as fast as they can with the clutch pulled in. When the bike is up to a running pace, dump the clutch. The rear wheel will turn the motor over, and should start the bike.

4) immediately pull in the clutch, so as not to stall the motor and have to repeat. (your friends will thank you for that.):thumbup:

Once it's running, plan on riding for at least 20-30 minutes at a speed above engine idle. It takes a good bit of time to replace the juice the starter consumes. It will take longer to recharge, if there are any electrical modifications to the bike.... all of which consume more juice than the OEM setup. There's less available to recharge the battery so it takes longer.

You can bump start a bike by yourself, as long as you can do a running hop onto the seat. Usually, it's better to just have a nice convenient slope to roll down. (Make a note to ensure you have a flat battery where it's convenient to bump start.....)

 

[rjo3491]

I think you broke the kill switch and the battery is fine. Is to prevent don't shut it off every time you come to a red light.

I don't think so, the, "clicking" described is indicative of a discharged battery.

 

[rjo3491]

Another related battery topic, during the night, I notice that the power of my lights is dictated by my rpms. Is this normal or should the beam of the light remain constant, idleling and while riding?

Weak battery? Bad alternator/stator?

Check the voltage regulator! I don't know how this apparatus is configured on an FZ, but this is a classic symptom for a car.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I bought my 2007 fz from my friend who bought it new from a dealership. The second day he owned it, the battery died. It was replaced under warranty and is still currently in the bike.

I too, at long red lights, in heavy stopped traffic, turn off the bike (with the ignition switch). When I see the light about to change, turn it on, push the starter and it fires right up. I do it ALL THE TIME in hot/humid Florida traffic).

I'll do this with my FJR as well (batteries in that bike last about 3 years Yuasa OEM replacement) with no problems, same procedure. The FJR pulls more amperage with a slightly larger battery.

Your battery is bad and turning off and back on won't hurt anything. If it kills the battery, your battery is toast or close to failure anyway...

As stated above a load test will confirm this..

 

[iSteve]

In that case maybe the frequent restarts just wore down the battery.

I don't think so, the, "clicking" described is indicative of a discharged battery.

Yea, that is why I posted "In that case maybe the frequent restarts just wore down the battery." after he said the starter was still clicking.

 

[sohail]

Using the bump start procedure, I won't have to push the start switch right?

 

[sohail]

Thanks guys, i figured out how to bump start it. I just need to drive for like 50 minutes and see if it'll keep it's charge.