main fuse keeps popping

[zacbkennedy]

Just finished installing the r1 forks on my 06 fz6 as well as a new radiator. everything was going smooth road her around for a couple errands. i pull into autozone because i saw that my dash was out. i pulled in grabbed a fuse and replaced it in the rear fuse panel. display didnt come back on so i said screw it and id figure it out later. i hop on the hwy to feel the waters a little more and as im moving down the hwy the bike cuts out no power no nothing. pull over start checking the fuses. The main fuse on the starter solenoid on top of the battery was blown so i replaced it after getting a ride but as soon as i put a new one in it blows immediately. now i have the bike at home thanks to my dad and his truck. Someone please help.

 

[FinalImpact]

Just finished installing the r1 forks on my 06 fz6 as well as a new radiator. everything was going smooth road her around for a couple errands. i pull into autozone because i saw that my dash was out. i pulled in grabbed a fuse and replaced it in the rear fuse panel. display didnt come back on so i said screw it and id figure it out later. i hop on the hwy to feel the waters a little more and as im moving down the hwy the bike cuts out no power no nothing. pull over start checking the fuses. The main fuse on the starter solenoid on top of the battery was blown so i replaced it after getting a ride but as soon as i put a new one in it blows immediately. now i have the bike at home thanks to my dad and his truck. Someone please help.

Any electrical mods not mentioned?

Does it only POP IT when you turn the key on?

Quickest way through this is with a 12V test lamp but this may not be enough if the KEY has to be ON to pop the fuse. We can start with something like an 1156 or 1157 bulb or any small Incandescent lamp.
1) Pull the Right side Pod cover and inspect for strange colors, damage to anything.
2) Raise the tank and disconnect the Negative side of the battery and install a new 35A fuse. Unplug the Green Fuel pump connector at the tank,
3) Insert your test lamp between the battery Neg post and the Battery Neg Terminal lead to the bikes chassis. At this point, I suspect our test lamp will come on as there is a load applied assuming it hasn't killed your battery.
4) If the light (Test light) is OFF, turn the key to the run position. At this point its likely going glow in full brightness.
5) Begin removing the fuses one by one from the Right Side fuse box. Does the test lamp go out?
- If yes, take note of the circuit the fuse was protecting. We need to follow it and find the short to ground.
- If NO, you are likely looking for a wire(s) right from the the Ignition Switch into the main harness. One side is Hot always RED, and there are 3 feeds. Brown w/ blue trace, Blue w/Black trace, and Red w/Black The Blue and Brown are the ones you may want to follow.

The problem here is that WE MAY NEED A BIGGER LOAD! Like a Head Light 55 Watts as the Bike without the Fuel pump needs about 5 Amps to Run the ECU, and the solenoids and Relays.

If there is NO obvious compromise to the wiring somewhere, Id disconnect the harness at the Regulator Rectifier and see if the lamp goes out then?

Basically - UNPLUG stuff until the light goes out and you find the path that is drawing current. Again the issue is the bike draws about 5A just turning the key so using a bigger light could be beneficial..

 

[zacbkennedy]

the bike was sitting for about a year before doing the fork swap if that matters.... i pulled the rectifier off and tested it with an ohm meter seems fine only saw a .004-.010 variance from the stator plugs. ill go through that list tomorrow and try to follow it step by step.

 

[zacbkennedy]

i also had to recharge the battery before putting it in and riding today. i was wondering if a bad battery was the culprit but that sounds kinda stupid

 

[Motogiro]

My bet is you've pinched the live wire in the steering harness loom or you're shorting the direct B+ line to ground at the bottom of the ignition switch. Do not put another fuse in until you've cleared the short. Start by looking at the bottom of your ignition switch.

 

[zacbkennedy]

i pulled my ignition off and checked the wires look good. where should i start looking to trace the wires and what color are the coded as. thanks for the help so far just want to get it figured out. im at school now so any advice yall give me ill check tonight and wright back

 

[FinalImpact]

Removing the igition is not such an easy task if its still secured by the tamper resistant bolts...

So.....

One could substitute a 5A fuse in place of the 35A. When you UNPLUG the branch the fault lies on, the fuse will not pop... Start w the fuel pump to protect your 5A fuse.

Start unplugging stuff and turn the key as decribed above. You Follow me, as in Buy about 25 5A fuses and go to town.
Key on, fuse pops, unplug something - repeat...

A test load is safer and cheaper in most cases. Or unplug everything and see when it pops by plugging components back in....
Pull the tank and airbox for a better inspection.

 

[zacbkennedy]

i dont have the tamper bolts anymore i had to remove them when i put the r1 forks and triple trees on. what all things should i unplug? and i tested today it pops the fuse whether the key is turned or not. so theres constant power coming from somewhere

 

[Motogiro]

i dont have the tamper bolts anymore i had to remove them when i put the r1 forks and triple trees on. what all things should i unplug? and i tested today it pops the fuse whether the key is turned or not. so theres constant power coming from somewhere

Since you're seeing the short with the key in the off position and your blowing the main fuse it is probably related to the main wiring that feeds the ignition switch. That wiring also is attached to the wiring that feeds the fuse for the cooling fan. If that wiring has become shorted before the cooling fan fuse it will also result in the main fuse blowing. The wire color is red and it should be a heavier gauge wire. At this time I would try to look where you've been working to see if you've pinched a wire. Check the wiring in the area of the steering and where it comes through the frame to the ignition switch. Unplug your regulator rectifier and try a low amperage (2-5 amp) fuse with the key off. If it doesn't blow with the RR disconnected you could have a dead short in the RR.

 

[zacbkennedy]

ok ill go through again and look for anything frayed or not. i just practicall disconnected everything and it was still frying. can you explain putting the 5 amp fuse in instead of the 30 i dont really understand that. thanks agin for yalls help

 

[zacbkennedy]

and the rectifier is located under the seat correct? if so ive pulled that already and its still popping

 

[FinalImpact]

The ecu and a few relays draw about 4 amps. Therefore a 5 amp fuse should survive with the engine off, start button not engaged, and the fuel pump disconnected.

Using a Light is better than any fuse. The goal being you correct the fault and even a small fuse will not pop.

I have some uncertainty from your input; if with the key off it blows the fuse than as Cliff said, follow the big red wire from the Ign switch to the batteries fuse as it must be compromised.

The small fuse is to protect your bike vs fire risk of shoving 35Amps into a dead short which could be a fire hazard.
Do you have the air box off yet?

 

[zacbkennedy]

And you both are correct!!!! The cord of wires going underneath the tail got too close to the muffler and melted them together. I have everything put together double checked connections and she starts right up only problem is the dash isn't working no speedo no odometer no neutral light nothing