Little help w/ front end alignment...

[metallicat]

Hi gang,

After some c*nt knocked my bike over (and put a note w/ a fake # and put the blame on another biker), I replaced my handlebar, and reset the forks in the trees, BUT after a few days, they creep back into a slightly tweeked position...

Since it was a 0 mph fall, I doubt anything (inc forks/tree) was bent. Is there a change the top clamp twisted a bit? Would loosening the stem nut a bit, letting the forks dictate true alignment, then retightening it help? I've looked around and haven't found a reference to this on this (or other, inferior) forum(s)?

Reason I don't just do this is because at 80 ft-lb, its a heavy nut, and I always feel weird applying that much pressure if I don't have to.

Thanks!!

 

[trepetti]

Don't know about the alignment but I have had the stem nut off a few times to adjust the steering head bearings and you need not worry about the torque. I always apply the maximum allowable torquage ( borrowed from " My Cousin Vinny ") and it tightens fine.

 

[Carlos840]

I did it following this video and it worked great!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSunBRB6-r8]Delboy's Garage, 'How-To' Re-align motorcycle forks the easy way. - YouTube[/ame]

Short version:

Loosen the wheel axle and the axle pinch bolt, loosen the lower fork clamp.
With the motorcycle on a rear paddock stand or center stand press the top of the triple tree down a few times so things align themselves.
Retighten the lower fork clamp, then the axle then the pinch bolt.

Some people recommend applying the front break before tightening the axle and pinch bolt so the wheel centers itself on the axle.

If you think the top fork clamp might be pinched, it might be worth loosening them, then tightening them back up before you start the sequence.

I did it this way after servicing my forks and everything was perfectly aligned

 

[bombadillo]

Sorry for the dead thread resurrection, but this helped a LOT Carlos840

 

[FinalImpact]

I disagree with the process above.
Why? The LOWER triple establishes the alignment of the upper triple by means of the stanchion tubes into the uppers triple. NOT the other way around.

NEXT and VERY IMPORTANT: Any time the stem nut is loose, the upper triple pinch bolts SHOULD ALSO BE LOOSE! The reason: When you tighten the stem the upper triple is drawn towards the lower. If all of the pinch clamps are tight, you bind the assembly and can risk kinking the stanchion tubes.

PROCESS:
Secure the lower pinch bolts. With the axle and everything below loose, do you pushing/aligning, TIGHTEN the STEM NUT ENOUGH TO FULLY SEAT IT. You will want the upper pinch bolts snug for alignment purposes but loose enough to allow the stanchion tubes to slide in the clamp. Torque the stem nut. Torque the upper pinch bolts.

Finish up by torquing the axle and then the axle pinch bolts.

This is not to say the other way won't work. Its to the say the lower triple has more surface area and it makes a better alignment fixture than the upper triple.​

If the alignment is not satisfactory when done, its time to inspect the stanchion tubes for bends. One basic way is to remove the springs (takes the pressure away), support the nose in the air and loosen one side upper & lower pinch bolts. Grab the stanchion tube and rotate it. If it rotates some and binds its very likely its bent. Remove the fork and inspect it. Obviously the best way is to set the removed fork in a V-block and spin it to check for run-out.

JM2C.. .. ..

EDIT: Adding a pic. Notice the extra thickness of the lower triple. Granted, this varies from bike to bike, but in our case the lower makes a better alignment fixture.