Knock knock

[FinalImpact]

A little off topic but thought I would share this little contradiction I found in the manual (or maybe that's my interpretation of the manual). :spank:

Page 341 says the following:
Lean angle sensor Remove the lean angle sensor and incline it more than 65 degrees.
• Upright 0.4 – 1.4v
• Overturned 3.8 – 4.2v

VS.

Then on Page 376
CHECKING THE LEAN ANGLE SENSOR
1. Remove:
• Lean angle sensor (from the bracket.)
2. Check:
• Lean angle sensor output voltage
Out of specification → Replace.

a. Connect the lean angle sensor coupler to the wire harness.
b. Connect the pocket tester (DC 20 V) to the lean angle sensor coupler as shown.
c. When turn the lean angle sensor to 65°.
d. Measure the lean angle sensor out put voltage.

Lean angle sensor output voltage 65°: 1.0–4.0 V

Note: "a" implies the harness is the DMM meter connection I think.

Reseting the sensor is to turn the key to the off position and then back to the on position once tripped.


TAGS:
Diagnostic code, 08, #08, lean angle sensor, lean angle, fault code 41, fault code no 41, fault code 30, fault code no 30

 

[fZling]

Hey all, another update on my progress. opcorn:

After thinking it over I got a used crankshaft with pistons and connecting rods from eBay. Turned out to be a great, cheap purchase. I also got 10x bearings, new timing chain and a new gasket (for connecting top and lower end of engine).

The clearance on all the bearings are perfect. .0015" clearance on all of the main bearings. Kind of tough putting the pistons back in. The compressor popped out while it was being inserted to the cylinder, luckily no damage. Another quirky issue I had, if you put the crankshaft back in backwards, it still spins freely. There is no binding at all if it placed backwards. Finally figured it out once the clutch wouldn't spin. Took us about 4 hours to get the lower end back together. The ring compressor problem set us back about 30min and then having to take the engine apart and back together set us back another 30.

Carefully, step by step getting closer to being back on the road!

 

[fZling]

:cheer:

Another update :rockon:

The bike is nearly complete! When putting the bike back together everything went smoothly. Minor things like losing the pin for the cam chain rubbing block and making sure the intake cam was positioned correctly. Getting the motor back in proved to be an adventure.

Once we got the head on an the cams set, we filled it with oil. Hooked up the starter to the battery, and cranked it a couple of times until the oil came flowing out of the cover mounting bolt holes.

The most time consuming was hooking up all the wires and hoses.

Having the lower end finished, it took around 5-6 hours to get the bike back together completely.

Put the fairing on just to take advantage of the diagnostic routine. Not sure if the bike would start without the tach / instrument panel.Turned the key and the tach went through it's routine, with no errors.

Hit the starter button, it started IMMEDIATELY!!! Made my day. NO CLANKING NOISE!!!!!!

It just needs another couple of hours to completely finish. :cheer:

 

[phranK2k11]

Its been a long process but it seems to drawing to an end! I bet you know every part on her like the back of your hand now! Hopefully you get many miles of fun outta the FZ after she's complete!

Thanks for the pics/updates. I bet it was hard to keep tooling at it sometimes but the pay of will be well worth it.

 

[FinalImpact]

That's Good Hear!!!!!:thumbup:

I'm just curious on a couple of details;
- How did you check the bearing clearances?
- Did you replace the main bearings?
- Which pistons did you put in your block?

Anything you care to share regarding the fine details would be appreciated. Maybe even a final $tab$.

Thanks and Do Enjoy the Summer!

 

[fZling]

That's Good Hear!!!!!:thumbup:

I'm just curious on a couple of details;
- How did you check the bearing clearances?
- Did you replace the main bearings?
- Which pistons did you put in your block?

Anything you care to share regarding the fine details would be appreciated. Maybe even a final $tab$.

Thanks and Do Enjoy the Summer!

Thanks!

- How did you check the bearing clearances?

Plastigage is used to check the clearances on the crankshaft. You put a little piece of this stuff on the crank and tighten it down with either the connecting rods or main bearings. Once you take it apart there will be a slight square where the platigage was. You can line it up with which ever square fits best and each has a certain clearance.

Google Image Result for http://www.aircooledtech.com/plastigage/plastigage-rod.jpg


- Did you replace the main bearings?

Yes, I replaced all of them with genuine Yamaha parts. Didn't want to take a chance with it in there after the other bearings were all toast.

- Which pistons did you put in your block?

Luckily, I found a crankshaft on eBay with connecting rods and pistons on it to boot, for only 150$. Although, after cleaning my original pistons I decided to use mine. (Sometimes there isn't a nice fit with a different used engines pistons) Although, I did use the connecting rods + bearings from the crankshaft that I bought.

 

[fZling]

Thanks! I hate to say it, but I'm gonna miss working on it!






Maybe I just have to start riding again...

 

[RJ2112]

Thanks! I hate to say it, but I'm gonna miss working on it!






Maybe I just have to start riding again...

When you installed the eBay crank and pistons.... you did replace the rings with new ones, right?

 

[fZling]

When you installed the eBay crank and pistons.... you did replace the rings with new ones, right?

Yeah, I actually explained it in a reply to FinalImpact, but for some reason it has to be checked by a mod first.

I actually used my own pistons instead, and just used the connecting rods from the one off ebay.

 

[RJ2112]

Yeah, I actually explained it in a reply to FinalImpact, but for some reason it has to be checked by a mod first.

I actually used my own pistons instead, and just used the connecting rods from the one off ebay.

As you have already demonstrated more mechanical aptitude than 95% or more of the folks on the forum, it seemed like a fore gone conclusion that you'd do the right thing.... but it never hurts to ask.

The photo with the head off..... I could see the arrows pointing 'forward, and the piston numbers. Was that all stuff you added with a sharpie?

 

[fZling]

As you have already demonstrated more mechanical aptitude than 95% or more of the folks on the forum, it seemed like a fore gone conclusion that you'd do the right thing.... but it never hurts to ask.

The photo with the head off..... I could see the arrows pointing 'forward, and the piston numbers. Was that all stuff you added with a sharpie?

Haha, thanks. Trust me, I couldn't of done it without the help of my uncle. The sharpied numbers were just to make sure the pistons were put back into the right cylinder. Each piston can have a slight difference in size and after putting them back into the right cylinder reduces the chance for future error. :rockon:

 

[fZling]

Oops I forgot to add the total price of everything once it was said and done.

Overall I'd put the price tag around 300$. Not bad when your being quoted around 2000$.

 

[fZling]

Hey all, final update!

The bike has been running great! No problems what so ever (knocks on wood). Took it for about a 80~ mile ride down south the other day and ran great the whole time! Just had to refill the anti-freeze, because we had to wait for the bike to suck up what was left in the container.

Wanted to thank you all again for the help, I hope this thread helps others with the same problem in the future. Time for some summer riding :thumbup:

:Sport::Sport::Sport:

Feel free to ask here if anyone has any questions on how the repairs were done, I have a pretty okay knowledge how this repairs work now.

 

[CHEMIKER]

Congratulations! Awesome thread, thanks for posting with such detail. Glad you're back on the road - just in time for the nice weather!

 

[phranK2k11]

How about some "after" pics?

 

[Aurinko]

Hi, and thanks for good technical information!

I read through all the messages and I think I have the exact same issue on my FZ6-05...

A TERRIBLE knocking sound. I´ve had the bike for bit over 2 years and currently it has around 24000 km's on it. The last maintenances and oil chances were done at 18k & 23k. I think the bike has "the" quiet knocking sound ever since I bought it, but suddenly (overnight!) the noise changed to a loud crackling/knocking.

Possible cause for failure is propably my bad driving. 2+ years of constant 8k-12k+ rpm driving.

Since I don´t have much technical skills like fZling there, I took the bike to a workshop and asked them to fix it if possible! :tard: I will try to post the results & costs here after things are solved.

 

[fZling]

Hi, and thanks for good technical information!

I read through all the messages and I think I have the exact same issue on my FZ6-05...

A TERRIBLE knocking sound. I´ve had the bike for bit over 2 years and currently it has around 24000 km's on it. The last maintenances and oil chances were done at 18k & 23k. I think the bike has "the" quiet knocking sound ever since I bought it, but suddenly (overnight!) the noise changed to a loud crackling/knocking.

Possible cause for failure is propably my bad driving. 2+ years of constant 8k-12k+ rpm driving.

Since I don´t have much technical skills like fZling there, I took the bike to a workshop and asked them to fix it if possible! :tard: I will try to post the results & costs here after things are solved.

Perhaps, if the shop allows it, try to buy the parts on your own. Like I did, buying used parts from junk yards and ebay really saves a couple bucks. For the most part the shop would most likely use original Yamaha parts that really start to add up. Be sure to update, and good luck on the fix!

 

[fZling]

How about some "after" pics?

Ain't she a doll?

:cheer::thumbup::Sport:

 

[fazerpt]

Hi, and thanks for good technical information!

I read through all the messages and I think I have the exact same issue on my FZ6-05...

A TERRIBLE knocking sound. I´ve had the bike for bit over 2 years and currently it has around 24000 km's on it. The last maintenances and oil chances were done at 18k & 23k. I think the bike has "the" quiet knocking sound ever since I bought it, but suddenly (overnight!) the noise changed to a loud crackling/knocking.

Possible cause for failure is propably my bad driving. 2+ years of constant 8k-12k+ rpm driving.

Since I don´t have much technical skills like fZling there, I took the bike to a workshop and asked them to fix it if possible! :tard: I will try to post the results & costs here after things are solved.

Hi
How did this ended?


[MENTION=15936]fZling[/MENTION]
Is the bike still ok?

Greetings