Is this thing stupid for painting bikes???
- Thread starter SANGER_A2
- Start date
The link doesn't go to a specific product. I would strongly recommend removing the tank and pieces you want painted,and just dropping them off with a professional.you will save yourself money and alot of trouble in the long run.i have freinds who paint and it takes years to get good at it. :thumbup: :rockon:
DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
A rattle can with a fan tip will work fine. Just make sure to keep the coats thin enough to not run. They say if you can't see the base color still with your second coat, you're putting it on too thick.
90% of painting is prepwork. Sand down until it's even. Sand everywhere the new paint will touch. Go all the way down to bare metal if you have the gumption. Clean it up with tack cloth until the cloth comes away clean, and hit it again with one seconds before you actually paint. Start with a primer designed for the surface and the paint that's going on top. Hit it with one good quick coat and wait as long as the instructions say. Then, if it said to wait until dry, tack cloth, otherwise start dusting the area with paint. Wait for the recoat/flash time and dust it again. If it says immediately, then wait 5-10 minutes. Just long enough for the first to firm up some. Once you're satisfied, wait the whole dry time. 8-10 hours usually. Wet sand with very fine sandpaper any rough spots or runs. Tack cloth again, then start your clear coat. 3-4 thicker coats, you still dont want runs, but it doesn't need to look airbrushed each coat.
Then wet sand just enough to get everything flat, (be very gentle and slow here) and then buff it with a power buffer to get it perfect. Hang your parts to make life easier, and if you can set up a dust free zone, I'd do that.
But, umm... no house painter. House paint usually clogs them up. And for the price you'll spend on quality paint and the buffer, you might as well just pay someone.
90% of painting is prepwork. Sand down until it's even. Sand everywhere the new paint will touch. Go all the way down to bare metal if you have the gumption. Clean it up with tack cloth until the cloth comes away clean, and hit it again with one seconds before you actually paint. Start with a primer designed for the surface and the paint that's going on top. Hit it with one good quick coat and wait as long as the instructions say. Then, if it said to wait until dry, tack cloth, otherwise start dusting the area with paint. Wait for the recoat/flash time and dust it again. If it says immediately, then wait 5-10 minutes. Just long enough for the first to firm up some. Once you're satisfied, wait the whole dry time. 8-10 hours usually. Wet sand with very fine sandpaper any rough spots or runs. Tack cloth again, then start your clear coat. 3-4 thicker coats, you still dont want runs, but it doesn't need to look airbrushed each coat.
Then wet sand just enough to get everything flat, (be very gentle and slow here) and then buff it with a power buffer to get it perfect. Hang your parts to make life easier, and if you can set up a dust free zone, I'd do that.
But, umm... no house painter. House paint usually clogs them up. And for the price you'll spend on quality paint and the buffer, you might as well just pay someone.
SANGER_A2
Super Member
If you click "Continue without postcode" you will see an electric paint sprayer thing. I bought a cheap bike to bobberize myself and I want to do everything myself (except a few bits of welding). I've been spraying bits using spray cans, but it works out expensive and I'm not the best with them. I'm very good at the sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, clean, paint, sand, paint clean, I just wanted to try something new.
dstaffx
Junior Member
A mate of mine had one of these. That exact make. (Although he did get it for his fence)
Anyway, I think it comes with a cup thing (like a funnel) that you fill with paint and time how fast the paint flows out. If it goes too slow the viscosity (thickness) of the paint is too heavy for the gun. and vise versa too fast paint is too thin.
That was a ear of 2 ago. Afraid I don't know if he still has it or not.
Either way be sure to test it on a spare sheet of metal first.
:thumbup:
Anyway, I think it comes with a cup thing (like a funnel) that you fill with paint and time how fast the paint flows out. If it goes too slow the viscosity (thickness) of the paint is too heavy for the gun. and vise versa too fast paint is too thin.
That was a ear of 2 ago. Afraid I don't know if he still has it or not.
Either way be sure to test it on a spare sheet of metal first.
:thumbup:
skyworm
Member
why don't you try to make your own compressor? Build Your Own Silent Air Compressor*::*BMC
Boneman did an excellent "How to" on spraying. And it has already been mentioned, but prep is the key.
Nelly
Nelly
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Professional painting today is far far from rattle cans. Automotive grade paints which is what our bikes basically come with require professional knowledge and skill if you want it to look pro. :thumbup:
joshfz6.2008
Junior Member
check out the dupli-color site they have good how to and picks of customer paint jobs. most good auto paint stores can put any color you want into an aerosol can.
