Is my waterpump now due?

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

First of all, I would like to thank all you riders here . This community is great place to be around with for helping and being helped/supported!

Here's what I found below the waterpump. For the history, dropped the bikes around 3-4 times, mostly (LOL) in the drive ways because of losing balance...nothing's damaged at all but I remember that there was some sort of coolant dropped out during that times.

Bike's engine sounds normal, no waterleak during the riding or while at stationary center stand and left the bike running through gears.

Questions:
a. How much is the new waterpump? what should I buy if I have to replace it?
b. Any instruction, caution to be aware of?
c. Is my waterpump soon due or is it just the coolant spilled when the bike was being dropped? how much times do I have to replace it now or wait until it's leaked?
d. what is the most common cheap fix for this if the waterbump still works (no bad, strange sound of waterpump sound)..Do I just need to replace the o-ring..seal by opening the housing to replace it..what parts should be purchased to replace if the waterpump housing is opened (assumed everything's mechanically fine)

I guess if it is not that expensive, maybe I just replace for the sake of my commute bike! I guess I might keep riding until seeing any drop or strange sound to replace it..Thanks for your all input!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AYU2qVOwt8&feature=youtu.be

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

I just tighten the lower hose 1 1/2 turn, it seemed the clamp came lose or something...I hope it's not waterpump leak


Another close-up one, I tighten that clamp, it seems the little bit loose. The coolant was dried. I even started the bike in stationary, and loaded through gears to see if there is any leak but not a drop..maybe dropping the bike cause that hose's clamp loose..?

 

[Motogiro]

I've had the hoses weep a little on mine. One day Goop pointed out a little green drip on my engine case. Tightened and checked all hoses and it's been good ever since.
Check your coolant recovery tank to see that the coolant is where it's supposed to be when cold and when hot.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Thanks for the response!

I traced the green coolant's origin...too bad, it seems it's coming right on from the part#11 where the inner half housing contact to the engine and sealed by the part#11.

Questions is, is that the only part#11 I should get to fix the leak? OR what other possible seal and part do I need to maybe rebuild the water-bump?

Is that easy to remove the inner-half housing? I saw other thread said to use air compressor to push out..how is it done?

Beside, anyone brought this to the shop and how much would they charge just to rebuild or they will only replacement of the whole waterbump unit?

Thanks!

I've had the hoses weep a little on mine. One day Goop pointed out a little green drip on my engine case. Tightened and checked all hoses and it's been good ever since.
Check your coolant recovery tank to see that the coolant is where it's supposed to be when cold and when hot.

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks for the response!

I traced the green coolant's origin...too bad, it seems it's coming right on from the part#11 where the inner half housing contact to the engine and sealed by the part#11.

Questions is, is that the only part#11 I should get to fix the leak? OR what other possible seal and part do I need to maybe rebuild the water-bump?

Is that easy to remove the inner-half housing? I saw other thread said to use air compressor to push out..how is it done?

Beside, anyone brought this to the shop and how much would they charge just to rebuild or they will only replacement of the whole waterbump unit?

Thanks!

It seems like it would more likely be Part#4 listed as a mechanical seal. When you pull the impeller, you'll want to examine the impeller shaft for any wear or corrosion that might ad to the leakage through that #4 mechanical seal. Thinking about it I would also replace the oil seal and bearing. No sense going back in soon after in the near future.

Oh yeah! One more thing...get it done before Saturday so you can come ride with us! Blah http://www.600riders.com/forum/i-m-...54623-all-hoons-hoonville-lets-ride-24th.html

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If that clamp took 1.5 turns to tighten, my moneys on that being your issue..

**IMO, before you replace anything, pull the lower radiator hose off the aluminum housing and inspect for ANY white, aluminum corrosion and clean as necessary. That clamp being that loose and any corrosion there will allow it to leak..

As posted in another thread, that loose clamp would fall into basic maintainance, ie going over the bike for loose bolts, clamps, etc.. Checking ALL your coolant hoses, oil cooler hose, etc, will likely reveal more loose hoses. Just the numerous heating and cooling cycles will cause the looseness (not counting corrosion)

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Yamaha does NOT sell the pump as a unit. You have to buy parts individually.

BTW, your likely getting your leakage when the engine is hot and the system pressurized.


Should everything be clean and clamps tight and it still leaks, as Motogiro posted, part #4, the mechainical seal, is likely the failure point.

Part #'s, 2,3,4,7 and 11 will make the pump as new.. Its not difficult, the engine oil does NOT need to be drained. The procedure is in the service manual.

Click on the below pic to enlarge

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Thanks Scott..

I will have to open it to replace the mechanical seal so that will lead to replace the O-rings...Should the part# below enough for me to carry the operation and re-use any other parts?

I planned to buy the part# 11,10,2,3,4,7 - do I need the part#23 at all? I haven't opened the waterhousing yet but I will so I'm planning to get any possible parts if necessary ..

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

If that clamp took 1.5 turns to tighten, my moneys on that being your issue..

**IMO, before you replace anything, pull the lower radiator hose off the aluminum housing and inspect for ANY white, aluminum corrosion and clean as necessary. That clamp being that loose and any corrosion there will allow it to leak..

As posted in another thread, that loose clamp would fall into basic maintainance, ie going over the bike for loose bolts, clamps, etc.. Checking ALL your coolant hoses, oil cooler hose, etc, will likely reveal more loose hoses. Just the numerous heating and cooling cycles will cause the looseness (not counting corrosion)

__________________________________________________________________________________

Yamaha does NOT sell the pump as a unit. You have to buy parts individually.

BTW, your likely getting your leakage when the engine is hot and the system pressurized.


Should everything be clean and clamps tight and it still leaks, as Motogiro posted, part #4, the mechainical seal, is likely the failure point.

Part #'s, 2,3,4,7 and 11 will make the pump as new.. Its not difficult, the engine oil does NOT need to be drained. The procedure is in the service manual.

Click on the below pic to enlarge

OK, I cleaned off those coolant debris around the inner housing contact with the engine and the out-flow hose with water and air blow.

I started the bike and loaded through gear 1-6 at 45mph (center stand in stationary). The bike got heated up with temp 199-212F up & down. I inspected again while bike was hot and loaded and I don't see any leakage at all. This test was run about 30 min and temp was around 199-212F and fan on and off several times.

At this point, Should I assume to continue riding and keeping the inspection in every rides to see whether there is any leakage?

Thx you all!

 

[Motogiro]

OK, I cleaned off those coolant debris around the inner housing contact with the engine and the out-flow hose with water and air blow.

I started the bike and loaded through gear 1-6 at 45mph (center stand in stationary). The bike got heated up with temp 199-212F up & down. I inspected again while bike was hot and loaded and I don't see any leakage at all. This test was run about 30 min and temp was around 199-212F and fan on and off several times.

At this point, Should I assume to continue riding and keeping the inspection in every rides to see whether there is any leakage?

Thx you all!

I think it's good if you're not seeing any leak. Check it periodically to see that it's dry.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

OK, I cleaned off those coolant debris around the inner housing contact with the engine and the out-flow hose with water and air blow.

I started the bike and loaded through gear 1-6 at 45mph (center stand in stationary). The bike got heated up with temp 199-212F up & down. I inspected again while bike was hot and loaded and I don't see any leakage at all. This test was run about 30 min and temp was around 199-212F and fan on and off several times.

At this point, Should I assume to continue riding and keeping the inspection in every rides to see whether there is any leakage?

Thx you all!

Just curious, was there much, if any white, corroded aluminum on the housing and/or hose?

But, as Motogiro posted, you sound like your fine now.

If it went getting to full temp/PRESSURE and didn't leak, you should be good... Just make sure its clean and then keep an eye on it. Ride it normally.

If you see any signs of leakage, you now know its internal. (I seriously doubt it is being as loose as the clamp was).

BTW, part #23 is for a water housing that bolts to the front of the block. You shouldn't have to touch that at all,(no wear and tear items in there) unless you see coolant leaking from there(corroded housing, failed gasket-very, very un-likely).

You'll know after a couple of rides if its good or not. The mechanical seal doesn't stop leaking but will just get worse (if its failing/failed)

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Thanks Scott, Motogiro and others (reading this post for your time!)

Yes I will keep my eyes on it next 2 ride Thu/Fri 140 mile trips! Crossed my fingers on next couple rides that I hope I don't have to open the water-pump for that.

Here are the pictures during the high temp and load beneath of inner housing-engine contact area,, it was 212 and loaded at 40Mph while I took these pictures.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks Scott, Motogiro and others (reading this post for your time!)

Yes I will keep my eyes on it next 2 ride Thu/Fri 140 mile trips! Crossed my fingers on next couple rides that I hope I don't have to open the water-pump for that.

albumid=1542&pictureid=10203[/IMG]

No problem, wish all the fixes were that easy..

Have a great ride!!

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Update after 1st ride to work today Re: Is my waterpump now due?

Update of 1st ride
No leakage or any coolant sip at all, checked the inner housing-engine contact and around water-pump housing, all is dry! Temp was around 175-210F at max speed 85mp and lowest speed 35mph.

Phewss...It must have been the outflow hose was loose...I will check again after every ride until the end of Friday!

Thanks everyone for your time!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

:thumbup:

If you haven't already, check all your other hose clamps as well. Shouldn't take a couple of minutes..

 

[FinalImpact]

This is perhaps a little off topic but for a bit I thought something was amiss with my temps. i.e. overheating when cold outside.

All was normal for the ride EAST (40 miles) into the wind but coming home and stopping at lights, temps went up to 205°F. Then while underway only dropped 10°F (195°F). Mind you the outside temp was in the low 40's.

What I observed was this; riding WITH THE WIND (West), in traffic at 40mph and stopping at longer lights, there was little airflow for cooling. As soon as I turned any other direction and rode the temps plummeted to 167 - 170°F.

Winds were West @ 35 ~ 45 mph with 65 mph gusts... Crazy that it really needs airflow even when its cool outside.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

My temp high around 199-200 whenever I'm at 35-40mph but down to 165-175 when I speed around 65-80...

And if I don't remember it wrong Blah it was you were telling when the bike 65-80mph the temp will drop dramatically don't you remember :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

All was normal for the ride EAST (40 miles) into the wind but coming home and stopping at lights, temps went up to 205°F. Then while underway only dropped 10°F (195°F). Mind you the outside temp was in the low 40's.

What I observed was this; riding WITH THE WIND (West), in traffic at 40mph and stopping at longer lights, there was little airflow for cooling. As soon as I turned any other direction and rode the temps plummeted to 167 - 170°F.

Winds were West @ 35 ~ 45 mph with 65 mph gusts... Crazy that it really needs airflow even when its cool outside.

Well, if you think about the overall pic, riding with the wind, at appprox the same speed, the radiator is working strictly as RADIANT HEAT, NOT FORCED AIR COOLING (with wind flow).

40F is plenty chilly but certainly not as effective as air movement over the fins.

IE, it would make a big difference having, say an electric heater activated BUT NOT blowing vs the same one BLOWING heat outwards

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Thanks everyone on this thread for your times, input!

After 5 days rolling ( 6 days x 33mile = 198 miles), I have no single drop leak at all.

It's now safe to say (Scott your bet is up!) it was the out-flow hose loose caused the coolant leak.

It's all about fate that if I didn't have the problem to open my oil filter, I wouldn't have known that loose hose and the coolant could have damaged other things!!

Rule of thumbs, keep checking the bike on everything visible after every ride!

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Reviving the post...

I flushed the coolant a month ago and kept monitoring if the leak is still happening.

It's actually very rare but one or two drops from the engine & waterpump contact as I saw it was dripping down to the hose connector.

The first problem was the loose hole as I screwed it tight already.

The second problem now is the one or two coolant drops coming from the engine & waterpump contact.

This makes me think that the water pump now will be soon needed to rebuild..perhaps some gasket, o-rings..

I need some help to:

a. The list what I should order to rebuild the waterpump
b. Is there any instruction for opening it up, replace the parts and re-assemble the water pump and put the water pump back to the engine?
c. Should I buy or look for any special tool to open up the impeller or just pull it out ?
d. is it easy to remove the bearing if it needs to replace? should I apply some locktie gel when re-assemble the oil bearing?
e. for mechanical seal, impeller and the housing water pump, will I just pull them out a little by little or it needs some special tool to pull it out?

Should the part list below be good for me to start the rebuilding? (updated: I already clicked the purchased button on all of the 6 parts listed below...may I need additional parts, please let me know?)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Page 6-10 in the 07-09 YAMAHA shop manual goes into some detail into rebuilding it. There's really not much to it and with some basic hand tools, will pop things apart and back together. Shouldn't need any loctite anywhere.

I think Fazil documented a pump re-build, do a search) but the manual addresses it pretty much in depth and it isn't difficult...

The parts you have listed should cover everything you need. :thumbup:

Pm sent..