Initial sand to bare metal before painting?

[BradFZ6]

Hello friends.

I've got an itch to paint my bike white (saw an r6 white and black and it looked amazing). I've done a lot of homework and have come to the conclusion (due to lack of paint sprayer and compressor) that I'm going to rattle can it. Now I know this wont look as good as a professional... But I'm very patient and OCD when it comes to the looks so I'm not too worried about it looking good. My question; is it an absolute need to sand the tank (metal) down to the bare metal? Can I just sand to get the clear off? Also how do you prep the plastics for best application? Anyone done a rattle can job that they have pictures of? Thanks fz6 community! It's the best bike and best riders out there.

 

[FinalImpact]

Wash it with soap and water. Wipe with Prep-Sol and remove any grease, oils, silicone. If you don't, this stuff will be spread into the paint when you break the surface. You will hate yourself later for skipping this.... Don't skip this.

Read up on wet sanding clear coat. You only need to break the gloss off the surface. You need to evenly sand it smooth with a rubber pad. Go to a good automotive finish store and look for some sanding self forming wet sanding pads.

Buy some 800 and 1200 grit wet dry paper. Use it with soap an water. Just basic detergent will do for all parts. Just don't go nuts. Sand evenly, wipe with a clean towel, look for lack of gloss. When the pap feels gritty, rinse it or it will scratch the surface.

When ready to paint, wipe it down with prep-sol again and don't touch it with your hands.

Spray from a distance slowly and evenly. Allow it to flash and get tacky. Apply at least 4 coats of not clear coating. 2 color and 4 clear otherwise.

Yes, I've painted a few things.... there are some tips in here...
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/42859-metalic-black-paint-add-ons.html

 

[ped]

Not only is it not needed....it's highly NOT recommended. Why would you do that at all? You don't even need primer...well that wouldn't be bad since you're rattle canning it but really just sand the **** and go.

you are not and will never get a good clear coat from a rattle can...period. Just give up that notion now. Even with a nice HVLP without setting it up right you still won't lay down a decent clear. Prepare for many, many hours of wet sanding and buffing to get the orange peel out.

 

[03636rider]

For best results I would go buy automotive clear and use a charged aerosol can just pour the clear in the bottom of the can and you can spray the automotive clear on the tank and plastics. Wet sanding with 800 and 1200 grit will bring it to a nice gloss. I use the automotive clear because if you drip gas on the tank without the automotive clear it will eat the rattle can paint right off.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ +1
Without a hardener it; it will fall victim to chips, etching from hard water and attack from fuel.

 

[BradFZ6]

Is the hardener that you speak of a "clear Coat"? Would I use this on the plastics as well?

 

[FinalImpact]

Setting the rattle can aside, a typical finish involves a base coat and a clear coat. Depending on the brand and application, it MAY or MAY NOT have hardener in it. i.e. Polyurethane with a catalyst to harden it. The base coat is your color.

Once that's down with just enough to yield color and fill, its allowed to tack up and 3 to 4 coats of top coat clear are applied. These will have hardener in them so surface can withstand the elements.

Both the base and clear are so thick they don't spray until reduced with a thinner. This reducer is what flashes off during application and throughout the next few months as the paint cures.

There are some pretty durable rattle can products out there. Do some research in your area and see what's available. Also beer and other consumables work as payment to your local painters. So, talk to them and tell them what you want. You could have a proper job done for fairly cheap! :thumbup: