If you have never changed your brake fluid...DO IT!!!

[darius]

Finally got around to the "feed and bleed" to changeout my brake fluid. I've owned the bike about a year and have no idea if/when it was done last.
What came out of the lines horrified me.....

Couldn't even see through this gunk when I held it up to the sun.
Needless to say, braking performance has been greatly improved!

Yikes. I did my rear brake today finally. It also looked like that.

 

[PosterFZ6]

1. buy speed bleeders
2. buy some brake fluid.

20 minutes later fluid changed.

I see no good reason why some people don't change their brake fluid every season.

It's cheap and fast.

Don't skimp out on the brake maintenance folks.

 

[Yasko]

1. buy speed bleeders
2. buy some brake fluid.

20 minutes later fluid changed.

I see no good reason why some people don't change their brake fluid every season.

It's cheap and fast.

Don't skimp out on the brake maintenance folks.

This forum has been a great place for me to learn these easy task.:rockon:

If we can just get some one with a gopro to make a how-to video.:BLAA:

 

[PosterFZ6]

This forum has been a great place for me to learn these easy task.:rockon:

If we can just get some one with a gopro to make a how-to video.:BLAA:

I changed fluid yesterday. I could have make a video. Sorry didn't think about it.

But there'e plenty of them on youtube anyway. It's pretty much the same on most bikes.

 

[Yasko]

there'e plenty of them on youtube anyway.

I found this for the gen 2 FZ1.:cheer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C45ti2biUXc

 

[PosterFZ6]

I found this for the gen 2 FZ1.:cheer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C45ti2biUXc

1. For the love of yourself, please wear nitrate/rubber mechanic's gloves. All that brake fluid and brake cleaner isn't healthy. Trust me.

2. When you want to change the brake fluid, don't just open the brake bleeder like he did and let it drip out.
a. attach the hose and the wrench.
b. when you open up the bleeder valve with the wrench about 1/4 of the way squeeze the brake lever. You will see brake fluid coming out of the hose that you attached. Now, without letting go of the brake lever, close the bleeder valve completely.
c. pump the brake lever a couple of times. Now without squeezing the brake lever open up the brake bleeder valve and then squeeze the brake lever, again you will see brake fluid coming out.
d. Repeat this process, but make sure to refill the brake reservoir on the handlebars with new brake fluid from a fresh sealed container. Always use freshly sealed brake fluid. Once you open it, you better use it.
e. You want to make sure that the brake fluid level is always about 75% filled up so you don't let air into your system. It's a bitch to pump it out later, once you do have it.

Changing brake pads.

Buy some caliper grease.

link

Now, I never do a brake job ie. change brake pads without using brake caliper grease. It does wonders to get rid of vibrations that cause that brake screeching noise.

When changing your brake pads. Just take them out. Clean out the caliper with a tooth brush and some brake cleaner.

Use brake cleaner to clean the pads as well.

Put a on the back surface of the new brake pads (the side that doesn't touch the rotors). Brake caliper grease is very thick so you don't have to use a lot of it just get it smeared evenly. Use your finger to apply a smooth film like surface.

Install the brake pads. Make sure not to forget the little PIN that secures them in place.

HOWEVER, before installing new brake pads.

Get some very fine sand paper. Something very fine and not too harsh. like a 1,000 grit sand paper. you can use some water for dipping of the sand paper as you scuff the rotors. Basically you are de-glazing them from contaminants. Use brake cleaner on the rotors to clean them completely after you are done scrubbing them.

Re-install everything.

Done.

EDIT:

I just realized that he has a second part to the video.

His little pump thing seems interesting but I never tried that. Essentially what I do i just flash the system with new brake fluid. So maybe like 5 complete fill ups of the brake reservoir before the fluid coming out of the bleeder valves is clear ie the new one.

Anyway. Hopefully that helps you a little more.

 

[Yasko]

Part 2 of the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RKnRnuq33g

 

[Yasko]

1. For the love of yourself, please wear nitrate/rubber mechanic's gloves. All that brake fluid and brake cleaner isn't healthy. Trust me.

2. When you want to change the brake fluid, don't just open the brake bleeder like he did and let it drip out.
a. attach the hose and the wrench.
b. when you open up the bleeder valve with the wrench about 1/4 of the way squeeze the brake lever. You will see brake fluid coming out of the hose that you attached. Now, without letting go of the brake lever, close the bleeder valve completely.
c. pump the brake lever a couple of times. Now without squeezing the brake lever open up the brake bleeder valve and then squeeze the brake lever, again you will see brake fluid coming out.
d. Repeat this process, but make sure to refill the brake reservoir on the handlebars with new brake fluid from a fresh sealed container. Always use freshly sealed brake fluid. Once you open it, you better use it.
e. You want to make sure that the brake fluid level is always about 75% filled up so you don't let air into your system. It's a bitch to pump it out later, once you do have it.

Changing brake pads.

Buy some caliper grease.

link

Now, I never do a brake job ie. change brake pads without using brake caliper grease. It does wonders to get rid of vibrations that cause that brake screeching noise.

When changing your brake pads. Just take them out. Clean out the caliper with a tooth brush and some brake cleaner.

Use brake cleaner to clean the pads as well.

Put a on the back surface of the new brake pads (the side that doesn't touch the rotors). Brake caliper grease is very thick so you don't have to use a lot of it just get it smeared evenly. Use your finger to apply a smooth film like surface.

Install the brake pads. Make sure not to forget the little PIN that secures them in place.

HOWEVER, before installing new brake pads.

Get some very fine sand paper. Something very fine and not too harsh. like a 1,000 grit sand paper. you can use some water for dipping of the sand paper as you scuff the rotors. Basically you are de-glazing them from contaminants. Use brake cleaner on the rotors to clean them completely after you are done scrubbing them.

Re-install everything.

Done.

EDIT:

I just realized that he has a second part to the video.

His little pump thing seems interesting but I never tried that. Essentially what I do i just flash the system with new brake fluid. So maybe like 5 complete fill ups of the brake reservoir before the fluid coming out of the bleeder valves is clear ie the new one.

Anyway. Hopefully that helps you a little more.

Just about as good as a video, with this info.:cheer:

Thanks.:thumbup:

 

[H8 PVMT]

Brake fluid and coolant change done today, I'm pretty sure the bike is faster now.

 

[Gelvatron]

Brake fluid and coolant change done today, I'm pretty sure the bike is faster now.

Not red so still slow

 

[pulsar2]

After filling fresh fluid in the front brakes, I just cant figure out how to open the damn rear brake reservoir cap. Mine is a 05 Fz6, and the reservoir sits safely surrounded by the frame, the exhaust and the tank. How did you folks manage to open that tight cap? Remove the tank?

 

[FIZZER6]

After filling fresh fluid in the front brakes, I just cant figure out how to open the damn rear brake reservoir cap. Mine is a 05 Fz6, and the reservoir sits safely surrounded by the frame, the exhaust and the tank. How did you folks manage to open that tight cap? Remove the tank?

It has been 2 years since I did it but on my 2006 I'm pretty sure I got to it without removing the tank. Maybe through the seat after the seat is removed? I'll be doing another brake fluid swap soon.

 

[bluremi]

I bled my front brakes and changed the fluid thanks to this thread. They were definitely feeling spongy and I'm pretty sure the brown watery fluid was the original stuff from the factory.

Tons of air came out of both screws. Front brakes are much firmer, more responsive now.

I left the rear brake alone because I would prefer the rear to be anemic and spongy, given how it's used.

 

[FIZZER6]

I left the rear brake alone because I would prefer the rear to be anemic and spongy, given how it's used.

The rear will stay spongy if you bleed it, that's how it is designed, it takes a lot more force on the rear brake lever to lock the rear brake up than you would think. Leaving old fluid in there for 5+ years can cause corrosion as enough water is absorbed into the ancient fluid.

 

[FinalImpact]

The rear will stay spongy if you bleed it, that's how it is designed, it takes a lot more force on the rear brake lever to lock the rear brake up than you would think. Leaving old fluid in there for 5+ years can cause corrosion as enough water is absorbed into the ancient fluid.

^^ like he said, change it as no good will come of leaving. Brake failure is not a good option. No good will come of it. Adjust the lever down if you wish to reduce its effectiveness. Also be sure to adjust the rear brake light switch too.

 

[long101]

I really want to change the fluid on my 09, only have 7k miles but still. 7ish years ago I had the bright idea to change the fluid on my car by myself (slightly more difficult) and ended up having to use the E brake all the way to the shop . So im a bit hesitant

Great info in here though!

 

[FinalImpact]

I really want to change the fluid on my 09, only have 7k miles but still. 7ish years ago I had the bright idea to change the fluid on my car by myself (slightly more difficult) and ended up having to use the E brake all the way to the shop . So im a bit hesitant

Great info in here though!

It doesn't get much easier than post #50 (( http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...changed-your-brake-fluid-do-2.html#post533788 )) Straight from the service manual and it works.

Grab the tools needed and do it. I will add that a Turkey baster works great for sucking out all of the old fluid so it cuts the Flush time down substantially.

Good luck, you'll do fine.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Grab the tools needed and do it. I will add that a Turkey baster works great for sucking out all of the old fluid so it cuts the Flush time down substantially.

Bleeding / flushing all the same thing, yes? No? You're just running the new fluid down until it's clear at the calipers, right? If so, what's the turkey baster good for? Cutting down on the old fluid coming down from the master cylinder?

Thanks,
nthdegreeburns

 

[FinalImpact]

Bleeding / flushing all the same thing, yes? No? You're just running the new fluid down until it's clear at the calipers, right? If so, what's the turkey baster good for? Cutting down on the old fluid coming down from the master cylinder?

Thanks,
nthdegreeburns

Yes. I did a little math once. It would take 70 some odd lever depressions to move a fluid once! With a baster, you can be done in 15 minutes as you are only pumping through the line sets and calipers. Much faster with an empty MC.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

I see DOT 3 and 4 brake fluids vs. just straight up DOT 4 brake fluids. Can the former be used? It was the only choice at AutoZone when I stopped to look during lunch.