How to replace your head bearings

[mxgolf]

FNTASTIC JOB IN THIS WRIGHT UP. We are very fortunute that you were good enough to document this as fantastic as you have. Thanks A+++++

 

[MarinaFazer]

Great write up! But it looks like this is a job for a shop for me...maybe RaceTech can do when they do the front forks....hmmmm

 

[LERecords]

thanks for the write up man... good info

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Well I pickup my All Balls Bearing today, got them for $29 out the door, locally. Like with some other members, it's going to be a job for a pro. But I'm going to show them this thread just in case they are not sure.

Wonder if my O-rings are the wrong size contained inside the kit too.

 

[MarinaFazer]

Wonder if my O-rings are the wrong size contained inside the kit too.

Great! Can you let us know what the outcome is on
1) the o-ring size and what the shop does about it
2) the price you pay for installation (perhaps with the hourly rate?) this would help me know what to expect at my shop.

Thanks!

 

[aaronb]

Just FYI the easier way to remove the lower race is to hammer the stem through the fork. Just until it pops through (very hard without a press, but a bottle jack with something to stabilize it will work.) Then pop the next one on. BTW DO NOT USE THE FACTORY BOTTOM SEAL...you will burn out your bearings, the seals provided work perfect; although keep the upper seal. Realize this is really REALLY hard and I dont recommend anyone doing this without prior mechanical experience...this took me a whole day and the better part of the next.

 

[Curtis]

aaronb, can you explain what you mean by "BTW DO NOT USE THE FACTORY BOTTOM SEAL...you will burn out your bearings..."? Also, you say the seals provided work perfect, but then you say keep the upper seal. Which upper seal are you suggesting is best - new with kit, or old factory seal?

Thanks,
Curtis

 

[Smersh]

Great post! Thank you very much!

Just ordered the kit and the manual. Let's see how quickly I realize i need to take it to the shop (this usually happens after the machine in question is taken apart)

 

[Smersh]

Done. This post definitely helped me avoid a lot of problems. Btw, I removed the inner race of the lower bearing by heating it up with a torch and then picking it up on both sides with large flat screwdrivers worked like a charm, just don't overdo it.

 

[v1jay]

My Lower race seemed like it was welded to the bottom... In the end, i had to dremel the sucker off... [i did not have access to a torch]. Did the race just slip off after expanding/heating a little...?

This thread really really helped me, so just paying my dues... Top Man..!!

cheers, vj

 

[Smersh]

I put the under-braket (i think that's what that rig is called) on three points (fork rings and the top of the axle) and heated the lower race with a propylene torch (not even a minute, i think). Then used a large screwdriver and a hammer (very lightly) to knock the race off its place - i wouldn't say it jsut slipped off the place, but it did not need much effort. I re-used the race later for placing setting the new bearing in place, per bd43's suggestion.

 

[v1jay]

Cheer bro for clearing that up... Now if i had a propylene torch, i polly do more damage then good - lol

Thanks again, cheers... vj

 

[tjhess74]

i replaced my old bearings with the all balls set a couple weeks ago. the job only took a couple hours and was pretty straight forward.

the top bearing seal is still too small, so i reused the stock one. i also had to dremel the steering stem race, as i had no means of prying it off. i used a dremel cut-off wheel and it took about 8 minutes to get it off.

the only body work i removed what the inner fairing panels, everything else stayed in place.

 

[Def]

Great thread! Replaced my steering head bearings with all balls this weekend and wouldn't have done it without this post. Thanks especially to BD43. I purchased a bearing separator for $15 and a seal driver for $45 to aid in the task. Couldn't buy a spanner anywhere so had to use a hammer and large screwdriver to cinch down the steering head adjuster nut. I wouldn't recommend this method but I've done it before and made sure all the slop was out of the front end first. Front end is much better!:thumbup: Thanks again! BTW, also changed the fork oil at the same time.

 

[REDHAWK22]

I'll keep this for future reference

 

[sniff6]

Great work and just to help with the job i found a video with some helpful tips.Keep up the good work:thumbup:

Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings at Garage Night

 

[Andz]

Threads like this make me feel positively negligent.

Mine is 7 and a half years old.

49,000km, give or take.

Original steering head and swingarm bearings.

Original chain and sprockets.

Clutch cable has never been lubed.

One service in the last 25,000-odd km that included oil, filters and plugs.

I start it, I ride it, it brings me home with a smile on my face.

 

[spock]

Mine will be 3 years old this December

55,000km, give or take.

Original steering head, wheels and swingarm bearings.

Original chain and sprockets.

Original rear brake pads

Original clutch and throttle cables ... they have been lubed

Currently on its second set of plugs, soon I will be replacing them.

Oil and filter changed every 8000 / 10000 kms

In the same boat as Andz: I start it, I ride it, it brings me home with a smile on my face.

Cheers

 

[stormrider]

Great thread. Thanks. It all ties in with what I've found out. One question though. The pipe you used to install the lower bearing, what was the diameter? It would really help me if you could let us know.

 

[outasight20]

Anyone know if the spanner wrench in the toolkit will fit the lock nuts on the steering head?