How to: Replace Clutch???

Service manual has good directions.

Pretty simple job overall. My one tip is to tape something to the inside of the frame around the clutch cover. The space is tight, and the clutch cover will scratch the frame
 
+1 on the above.

Make sure you soak the friction plates in oil for several hours...

Also, pay attention to the marks on the inner hub, they must match up with the outer clutch "Boss".

Obviously, the friction/steel plate order must be replaced exactly as they came out....
 
Thanks for the replies.
Do I reuse the steel plates or do I need to buy new ones?
 
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saminator said:
Thanks for the replies.
Do I reuse the steel plates or do I need to buy new ones?
Click to expand...


The frictions, definitly.

The steels, it'll depend on how they look, measure up, check for warpage (on on a piece of glass with a feeler gauge) once apart. If their discolored (blue) from hard abuse (burn outs, etc), warped, they'll need replacement.

If your clutch is just starting to slip from normal wear and tear and you get to it soon, the steels will most likely be ok. The longer and harder it slips, the worse the steels will get.

IMHO, ride the bike pretty gently as I've seen the friction plates literally let loose throwing friction material thru out the engine. As a side note, the shop I frequent for parts, had an R6 engine out and upside down plucking clutch material out as it locked up the gears..The owner was said to abuse the bike badly, it caught up with him...
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
If your clutch is just starting to slip from normal wear and tear and you get to it soon, the steels will most likely be ok. The longer and harder it slips, the worse the steels
Click to expand...

I guess I should say, the reason I am replacing the clutch is for the following reasons;
The bike has a strong burning smell after riding for only a short time, the clutch lever does not "bite" until it is almost all the way out, and the clutch cable is adjusted all the way out. As far as I can tell though it has not slipped yet.
 
you wouldn't be able to smell a burning clutch, as it is wet

have you tried adjusting your clutch cable?
 
greg said:
you wouldn't be able to smell a burning clutch, as it is wet

have you tried adjusting your clutch cable?
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Well ****, what could that burning smell be? I took it to a mechanic already that diagnosed the clutch.
The clutch cable is adjusted all the way.
 
saminator said:
Well ****, what could that burning smell be? I took it to a mechanic already that diagnosed the clutch.
The clutch cable is adjusted all the way.
Click to expand...

Smell your oil. Does it smell burned or normal? The clutch is bathed in the same oil as the engine and transmission. The smell may be something that was flung up on your header or something leaking and burning on the exhaust. The clutch engagement on the FZ6 is pretty far out to begin with and it also has a very short friction zone. If you haven't had a problem with the clutch engaging fully then I would look a little further. Make sure your clutch cable is adjusted and lubricated. :)
 
also the more you unscrew the clutch adjuster the less you will have to pull the handle to clutch in. screw it in further and you will have to pull more.

from you description it sounds like you might have it unscrewed all the way
 
I have noticed that the smell is worse the harder I ride. In theory if it is not the clutch, would just idling the bike in neutral and revving the engine produce the same smell. Because I feel like only when the clutch is engaged do I smell anything.
 
saminator said:
I have noticed that the smell is worse the harder I ride. In theory if it is not the clutch, would just idling the bike in neutral and revving the engine produce the same smell. Because I feel like only when the clutch is engaged do I smell anything.
Click to expand...


Basically, a clutch is made out of similar materials that are used for brake materials but your clutch is a wet clutch as mentioned previously. If your smelling your clutch your oil is going to smell like burnt clutch. Does your oil smell like burnt clutch? When you're riding hard could you be smelling your brake pads? Could it be some other smell? Oil leaking on a header ot coolant?
 
Motogiro said:
Basically, a clutch is made out of similar materials that are used for brake materials but your clutch is a wet clutch as mentioned previously. If your smelling your clutch your oil is going to smell like burnt clutch. Does your oil smell like burnt clutch? When you're riding hard could you be smelling your brake pads? Could it be some other smell? Oil leaking on a header ot coolant?
Click to expand...

I noticed the smell coming from below my seat so I don't think it's the brakes. I also noticed my oil is getting blacker more quickly so I will have to check and see if the oil smells burnt when I get home.
 
what's your engine temperature like? if your clutch is slipping i would expect it to get hotter than usual
 
saminator said:
I have noticed that the smell is worse the harder I ride. In theory if it is not the clutch, would just idling the bike in neutral and revving the engine produce the same smell. Because I feel like only when the clutch is engaged do I smell anything.
Click to expand...

The clutch shouldn't have a burning smell sitting there running. You should also have approx 3/4" play at the far end of your clutch lever. If not, its too tight... Also make sure the cable isn't sticking, keeping the lower clutch arm from fully retracting, this is important....

An easy way to check your clutch for slippage:

Find a safe place to ride/test the bike. Put the bike in first gear, let out the clutch normally, then nail it, WOT. Be carefull as the bike will likely try to power wheelie as it gets up in the RPM's (that's with stock gearing).

If the clutch is slipping, the RPM's will rise very quickly, the bike won't..

If the bike takes off like a scalded ape, no slippage, trys to wheelie, its time to start looking at your brakes potentially dragging as posted above.....

Please try the above mentioned acceleration test in a safe area, if your experiance permits. It will be very obvious if its slipping..


Please post your results and we can go from there..
 
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TownsendsFJR1300 said:
The clutch shouldn't have a burning smell sitting there running. You should also have approx 3/4" play at the far end of your clutch lever. If not, its too tight... Also make sure the cable isn't sticking, keeping the lower clutch arm from fully retracting, this is important....

An easy way to check your clutch for slippage:

Find a safe place to ride/test the bike. Put the bike in first gear, let out the clutch normally, then nail it, WOT. Be carefull as the bike will likely try to power wheelie as it gets up in the RPM's (that's with stock gearing).

If the clutch is slipping, the RPM's will rise very quickly, the bike won't..

If the bike takes off like a scalded ape, no slippage, trys to wheelie, its time to start looking at your brakes potentially dragging as posted above.....

Please try the above mentioned acceleration test in a safe area, if your experiance permits. It will be very obvious if its slipping..


Please post your results and we can go from there..
Click to expand...

Why not try it in a higher gear? Should give more control, and less chance of ending up over the teakettle. That's how I check out cars anyway... get it around peak torque, then floor it.

You can catch a little glimpse of the plate edges in the basket if you look through the oil filler. It'll kinda only tell you if it's totally shot (no friction left on the frictions) but it's better than nothing, if you don't want to pull the cover to check.
 
fb40dash5 said:
Why not try it in a higher gear? Should give more control, and less chance of ending up over the teakettle. That's how I check out cars anyway... get it around peak torque, then floor it.

You can catch a little glimpse of the plate edges in the basket if you look through the oil filler. It'll kinda only tell you if it's totally shot (no friction left on the frictions) but it's better than nothing, if you don't want to pull the cover to check.
Click to expand...

I suggested first gear as the torque doesn't really kick in until 7-8,000 RPM's. In top gear, he'll be well over 130 MPH.

Second gear would certainly be a bit tamer but if his clutch is that bad, his front wheel WON'T get light or see any daylight anyway...

Really any gear will work but where the engine is pulling the hardest, will be the most slippage...
 
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I will try gunning it in a safe place. I have yet to feel any slippage yet. It also just seems weird how far out I have to let the clutch before it bites. I had an SV650 before and I would let out the clutch like 3/4in at it would grab.
 
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