How many teeth on rear sprocket on Fazer S2?

[Gadget]

Hi

I'm hoping someone here can help me...

I had a larger sprocket (3 extra teeth) put on my bike last week by a local bike garage and it doesn't seem to have made much difference in speed in lower gears. I have a feeling they did a like for like replacement in error. I'm trying to establish how many teeth are on a stock (European model) Fazer S2 (non ABS) so I can compare it but I'm struggling to find out this information online.

Does anyone know the answer to this or if they have a stock S2, would you mind counting the teeth for me?

Much appreciated! :thumbup:

Darren

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

There are 46 teeth on rear sprocket.
16 front.
Stock.
Hope that helps.

Rich

 

[ShoopCE]

Rich is correct and I think this ratio is the same for bikes in the european market.

This Wikipedia article seems to cover both european and US versions.

The sprocket counts are in the specification table on the line for final reduction ratio.


Yamaha FZ6 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Chris

 

[FinalImpact]

46/16 = 2.875 < Stock Ratio

Common Changes:
48/16 = 3.00
49/16 = 3.062
50/16 = 3.125

46/15 = 3.066
47/15 = 3.133
48/15 = 3.20

FWIW: taking the rear sprocket tooth count up is less frictional/HP loss than taking the front sprocket down a tooth. Your not trying to bend the chain sharper.. .. ..

 

[Gadget]

Hey guys

Thanks for this, I can confirm that the new sprocket has 49 teeth so it has been correctly upgraded!

However I read on another thread that because of a larger sprocket my speedo would be displaying a faster speed then I was actually travelling. But during a bike trip to Wales last week I was doing...ahem, 90mph with my friend riding his Ninja next to me and via our cardo scala comms he confirmed his speedo was read exact same speed? And no, he hasn't upgraded his sprocket either.

Any ideas people?

Thanks

Darren

 

[iSteve]

Pretty much any modern vehicle is a bit inaccurate all defaulting on the fast side. Your friends Ninja is probably just as far off as your is now. If you have a GPS you can check speed with that. My FZ6 is off by about 4mph at 60mph. People that use a 17 tooth countershaft sprocket usually report almost no error.

 

[ShoopCE]

I think most non-sporty vehicles are pretty accurate for their speed readings. My wife's '05 Caravan and now '13 Outback were/are dead on. I need to check my new Mazda6, but my kids' two 6's also read accurate. A friend's Miata reads about 10% high.

I think the consensus on here was that with the stock gearing, the FZ6 speedo reads about 5% faster than actual. I installed a SpeedoDRD and needed a -4.5% correction. The change you made should have added about 6.5% to the "indicated" versus "actual" discrepancy, which would mean your speedo probably reads somewhere around 11% higher than actual.

If true, this means your 90 mph indicated was actually 80.1. But hey, this means fewer speeding tickets, right?

Funny Story:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/the-bar/50932-who-you-what-did-you-do-my-wife.html

 

[iSteve]

ShoopCE, you're right most cars are pretty accurate usually off just 1 or 2 percent. But just a set of new different brand tires can make a difference. If you check google you'll see lots of car owners complaining of speedos being off as much as 10%.

Mythbusters even had a show on motorcycle speedo.

 

[Gadget]

Just found this article which says it all really:
403 Forbidden

 

[ShoopCE]

Thanks Gadget. An article with real measured error rates.

What I'd REALLY like to see would be an interview with one or more of the manufacturers where they explain why they all decided to do this.

I suspect a government consipracy...

 

[FinalImpact]

If you take the time to measure either the rolling distance or the diameter of your rear tire i posted an excel spreadsheet here that calculates actual speed based on tire size, gear selected and RPM. GPS is quick and easy too. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ead-rpm-gear-sprockets-tire-actual-speed.html

Because the same brand and size of tire can vary significantly and new vs worn plus tire pressure all effect roll out, I offer it as a guide but you must measure if you want it to be accurate.
Just going off memory here but 24.88" comes to mind for the rear tire diameter but mine always measure less by 0.45" or so.
Take a look at the link. Also id expect the tire to grow a small amount as speed increases...

 

[Gadget]

iSteve, I went for a ride today and clocked 100mph but my tomtom on my iphone said I was doing 91 so there's your answer!

 

[2old2ride]

Sales. Ego has a lot to do with motorcycle selection.
Then there is the fact that speed is measured different ways. Or maybe I should say different circumstances. Back in the day, standard was the measured mile. AFAIK, that is what is in the record books. That would be a different number then downhill on a perfect day with a tailwind and a fat chick on back.
I had a Harley guy tell me his Harley could do 170 mph. I told him, sure, if you drop it from the back of a C-130 at 20,000 feet. He is not my friend. :rockon:

The truth is if you are keeping ahead of traffic, riding the bubble, you are going fast enough. If you fall off and die, you were going to fast.

 

[Cortez]

Hi

I'm hoping someone here can help me...

I had a larger sprocket (3 extra teeth) put on my bike last week by a local bike garage and it doesn't seem to have made much difference in speed in lower gears. I have a feeling they did a like for like replacement in error. I'm trying to establish how many teeth are on a stock (European model) Fazer S2 (non ABS) so I can compare it but I'm struggling to find out this information online.

Does anyone know the answer to this or if they have a stock S2, would you mind counting the teeth for me?

Much appreciated! :thumbup:

Darren

You got the answer already, but you need to look at this site if you haven't
already: Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator - that helps a lot.

Also, on the ABS model here in EU, the speedo error doesn't change for
some reason when sprockets are changed, the speed is probably read off
the ABS sensor and not the front sprocket.

On my Kawasaki, going +1 up front made the speedo 100% accurate at
60mph.

 

[Voz]

You got the answer already, but you need to look at this site if you haven't
already: Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator - that helps a lot.

Also, on the ABS model here in EU, the speedo error doesn't change for
some reason when sprockets are changed, the speed is probably read off
the ABS sensor and not the front sprocket.

On my Kawasaki, going +1 up front made the speedo 100% accurate at
60mph.

Nice ref on the gearing Commander, thanks. Just need to get my mind around all that data, lol. Trying to see the riff between factory 16/46 vs what is on the bike I just picked up 15/43. Looks the same, not sure if any other riffs?

 

[Cortez]

Nice ref on the gearing Commander, thanks. Just need to get my mind around all that data, lol. Trying to see the riff between factory 16/46 vs what is on the bike I just picked up 15/43. Looks the same, not sure if any other riffs?

Other then the possibility of a different chain wear pattern, the 15/43 should
behave very much like the stock 16/46, but your speedo will be even more off
then the stock setup.

If you have the ABS version of the bike, it picks up speed elsewhere (I'm guessing
the ABS sensor on the front wheel) since the speedo error remains the same on
ABS models regardless of gearing changes.

Use the stock part of the gearing commander for, well, stock settings, enter
your setup in the next column (current) and you have the third one to play
with to see what happens.

The differences are huge in 1st and 2nd gear on this bike with any gearing
change because of lack of low end torque (and the fact that the first gear
will get you up to 60mph, and 2nd to almost 100mph).

After that it's minor.

Going +1 up front on the stock setup is very close to adding a 7th gear
as the 5th becomes very close to the stock 6th etc, but you loose A LOT
pickup in 1st and 2nd gear and I'll probably be going back to stock gearing
even if I don't need the extra acceleration.

Like I mentioned before, I did the same (+1 up front) on my 2 cylinder 650cc
bike and the difference was nowhere as dramatic as here.

I'd keep the front sprocket stock, and go 1 tooth up or down on the rear
sprocket for minor adjustments and that's about it, I think the stock gearing
is just fine, just have to get used to the bike being very rev happy, which is
exactly the opposite of what I like (Bandit 1250 fan here), but it has it's
thrills!

If it was possible (read: cheap), I'd keep the stock gearing and just make the 6th gear
a lot taller.

 

[Voz]

Thanks for the detailed reply Cortez. I have been stranded by **** weather and the working week so have still not ridden it beyond the 3 klm ride home. I will get out on it soon and get the feel of it to determine what sprox combo I need.

My current problems are that the throttle cable or grip is binding, WOT stays WOT, should I lube the cable? Any procedures documented here for this? Also, I find the gear changer way too high, is there any adjustment to lower it or do I need to replace something?

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks for the detailed reply Cortez. I have been stranded by **** weather and the working week so have still not ridden it beyond the 3 klm ride home. I will get out on it soon and get the feel of it to determine what sprox combo I need.

My current problems are that the throttle cable or grip is binding, WOT stays WOT, should I lube the cable? Any procedures documented here for this? Also, I find the gear changer way too high, is there any adjustment to lower it or do I need to replace something?

Although Cortez makes some valid points, i am on the other side of the spectrum, i love the way the FZ6 revs and i currently have -1/+2 gearing, which makes it rev even more.
It really makes the bike feel a lot snappier from down low, and i don't think i could go down to stock gearing.
IMO it is worth experimenting with the gearing to find what works for you, but don't be afraid to rev the bike, it loves it.

Regarding the grip, make sure it does not bind against the control pod, and try to lube it. They do a small tool that you clamp on the cable end that allows you to shoot lube down the cable. Just google "cable luber", they are cheap.

The gear adjuster can be adjusted at the linkage, just loosen the lock nuts, turn the linkage bar to move the pedal up or down and re tighten the lock nuts.
One of the lock nuts is a reverse thread so don't go mental on them! I think it is the lower one but am not 100% sure!

 

[Cortez]

Thanks for the detailed reply Cortez. I have been stranded by **** weather and the working week so have still not ridden it beyond the 3 klm ride home. I will get out on it soon and get the feel of it to determine what sprox combo I need.

My current problems are that the throttle cable or grip is binding, WOT stays WOT, should I lube the cable? Any procedures documented here for this? Also, I find the gear changer way too high, is there any adjustment to lower it or do I need to replace something?

You're welcome and I sadly have no idea about your other issue and don't
remember reading about it here before.

 

[Cortez]

Although Cortez makes some valid points, i am on the other side of the spectrum, i love the way the FZ6 revs and i currently have -1/+2 gearing, which makes it rev even more.
It really makes the bike feel a lot snappier from down low, and i don't think i could go down to stock gearing.
IMO it is worth experimenting with the gearing to find what works for you, but don't be afraid to rev the bike, it loves it.

Oh I completely agree with this, the engine is very rev happy and it doesn't
mind it, but I don't like to hang in there if I don't have to.

But considering mine is a naked version and 80mph+ is rare, going +1 was
really a pointless move and I'll be going back to stock for sure.