Help Leak + Battery

[PatrickS]

Hey everyone,

SO i was trying for the first time to open up my bike, and it didn't go so well.
One broken screw from the front panel, and a leak.
I have no idea what that is seemed like oil.
This leak happened when i lifted up my tank frame in order to try and remove the battery.
Anyone knows why this hapened ?

And this is where it came from (Botom ride side, behind the central stand)

Also i got to my battery, and was reading every step of my manuel, unfortunatly i was not able to take it out since i had no idea what screws to take out and wtf to do : /
Only thing the manual said is to remove battery in case of more then one month storage.

Kinda deseperate now. Please somone tell me how i take out my battery.

Thanks
-P

 

[champion221elite]

Any chance it could be fuel that leaked out through an overflow vent hose? My FZ did the same thing last week when I checked the air filter.

 

[PatrickS]

I did fill it up right before doing that, you really think its the fuel ? i tried rubbing it off with my finger and i had a gray/black tint to it. Isn't oil made like that ?

 

[Fred]

Gasoline + dirty garage floor = grey/black liquid.

It's just gas.

 

[PatrickS]

Yay it's just gas !!!!!

Alright next step... anyone remember the steps to do to remove the battery ?

 

[wrightme43]

Also if you park your bike outside, you will get a water and fuel mixture that is around the gas cap, but not actually from the fuel tank that runs out. That sounds more like what it is to me.

Battery is easy to remove.

remove the two bolts that hold down the fuel tank.
Use a cut off broom handle or some other way to support the tank.

Remove the black cover that holds down the battery. one bolt on each side.
Undo the negitive (black) terminal first. Use a 10mm not a philips screwdriver. DO NOT LOSE BOLT. Undo the Positive terminal next. again with a 10mm not a screwdriver. DO NOT LOSE THE BOLT. gentley lift the battery out. CAREFUL NOW!!! there are two small square nuts that have to stay with the battery in the terminals. straight up and then straight down to the groun. Return the bolts to the terminals. make sure you dont cross thread them.

Hope it helps.

Also a easier softer way is to instal a battery tender and just leave the battery in the bike. It works better and you can use it all year long and your battery will last longer and work better. less than 35 dollars. We can walk you thru the install if you like.

 

[b.konstadinos]

Just gas nothing to worry about. When your fuel tank is full or almost full and you lift your tank, Some gas comes out from the overflow that is under the fuel tank cap. As for removing the battery, you have to take out the airbox first and then continue removing the battery.:thumbup:

 

[wrightme43]

dig your avatar, I just sat thru the whole thing. I know know I know I used the thru. I cant spell worth a poop!

 

[wrightme43]

I dont have to remove the airbox on my bike, maybe they are different overseas. I dont know. The US model is easy.

 

[b.konstadinos]

Ok wrightme43 explained it much better than me. I just take out the airbox so as to have more room for my hands!!!

 

[b.konstadinos]

They are just the same. Just for more room. I tried to take out the battery without taking out the airbox and one of the little square pins fell down. I spent 2 hours to find it so....:thumbup:

 

[PatrickS]

Thanks all for your help,

Now i have tried to remove the bolt but i couldn't for some reason no matter what screwdrivers i used : /
What is that tool that you need for it ?

 

[wrightme43]

which bolt?

The battery bolts that go to the terminal or the battery cover/holddown bolts?

 

[PatrickS]

the bolt that connect the red wire down to the battery, and the one that connect the black one too.

The first 2 main bolts before the black cover is removed.

 

[wrightme43]

You need a 10millimeter socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

Companion 1/4 in. Tear Drop Quick Relase Ratchet - Model 30595 at Sears.com

You need the 10mm socket in this set.

Craftsman 9 pc. Metric Easy to Read Socket Accessory Set, 6 pt. Deep, 1/4 in. Drive - Model 34562 at Sears.com

Or any other brand in this size or 3/8th" drive size.

for non proffessional use Craftsman is great. even so far as light proffessional use.
bite the bullet and buy good tools one time, just cause it has a lifetime warrenty doesnt mean it wont destroy the fastener and cost you a huge headache, and then they will give you another one just like it as many times as you bring it back.

this
200 pc. Mechanics Tool Set - Model 50200 at Sears.com

With the additon of 1 and 1/4" socket in half inch drive will do just about anything you need to ever do to your bike and last the rest of your life.

Hope it helps.

 

[wrightme43]

Yeah when I first removed my terminals they were very very tight.
The assembly tech used a cordless impact driver to put ever thing together. It makes stuff tight. Phillips (+ shape) is one of the crapiest things ever invented. always use the socket if you can.

Allen head socket screws are great. Thorson (square drive) is great. Phillips sucks. LOL

 

[PatrickS]

omg i love you thanks
ill finish this when i get back from my hunting weekend. Its the only was that will make me feel better about putting my baby back to sleep for this winter.
Thanks wrightme

 

[FZ6er_FSR]

Hey Pat,

I've went through exactly the same thing as you 2 weeks ago.

Next time you need some help, give me a shout. I am in the neighbourhood.:thumbup:

Going hunting near Lacolle? I heard it's Rifle season?

 

[Fred]

You need a 10millimeter socket on a 1/4\" drive ratchet.

Nonono.
It's a one centimeter socket that you need. And use a 1/48 foot drive ratchet for it.

Fred

 

[PatrickS]

Can it be depending on the model year ? Mine is a 2005. What i am going to do is buy both, so am on the safe side.

Thank you for your help guys, i appreciate it

PS: Sam check your MP


-P