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heated grips to shut off when the key is turned off?

The relay itself will have a contact rating... that will be expressed in amperes, and is the 'safe' current level that can be passed accross the contacts. 5-10 amps would be plenty.
 
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More more thing to consider, Dean..... if you have the choice between sealed weatherproof components, and something cheaper.... go ahead and spend for the 'tougher' part.

I bought an extremely inexpensive set of fog lights for my car a few years ago.... two 55W H3 bulbs, in rectangular reflectors, with enough wire to mount them, and a rocker switch. $20.

In the 3 years I have had them on the car, I have had to replace one H3 bulb.... and that rocker switch once. All the current for the 2 55W bulbs is passing through that rocker switch. Nearly 10 amperes.

When the first switch melted, I should have gone ahead and patched in a relay to take the 10 amperes, and leave the replacement switch with 0.1 or less amperes to deal with. Cheap 'won' over smart.... and I will be keeping a very close eye on the rocker to see when it dies. This one is supposed to be rated for 50 amperes; you't think that should prevent anything from happening.... all it really does is move the next fialure to a less accessible place.
 
I know this post is a bit old now, but thought i'd share my experience on here incase anyone else was fitting heated grips to their FZ6.

Just installed mine today. I bought the R&G Racing Heated Grips (not from r&g, I found them cheaper else where just google product search it) £29 delivered. Bargain.

I wanted to install them so they turned off with the ignition to stop them being left on.

For ease, I decided to tap into the ignition live circuit using the numberplate light. If you remove the left side panel (viewed when sitting on the bike) to expose the relays and fuses and follow the wiring loom towards the rear of the bike, you'll see some bullet connectors for the rear lights. I found the one for the licence plate light and joined onto that for my heated grips. I soldered, but you could just bullet connect them. The neutral/earth can either go to the battery or the frame nearby (the screw hole for the side panel does nicely)

At least this way if there are issues, it'll only be the grips and numberplate light that gives up not the headlamp etc.

I hope this helps someone. Mine are working fine and get nice and toastie too.

Jamez79
 
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