"Hard Wiring" a GPS Unit, Any Experience?

[mjmelancon]

Hello everyone,

I've done some research on mounting GPS units to a bike, but haven't seen a whole lot on the details of how to actually wire the power cable into the motorcycle's electrical system. I found this by doing a quick search on the web:

Motorcycle / Bike Mount for Garmin Nuvi 1450 1450LMT 1490T 1490LMT GPS

Basically I have a Garmin Nuvi 1450 which works great in my car, and I would like to use it interchangeably between both my car and bike. The unit can run off the internal battery for about an hour to 1.5 hours, but wiring the power cable to the bike would be ideal. I know that other people have said that taping into the headlight, taillight, or even the ignition is the way to go so that the cable isn't drawing power when the bike is turned off. Another point was made that 5 volts must be supplied to the GPS and not the 12 volts that comes directly from the battery. I'm not 100% sure, but the black box on the power cable from the mount guys kit might be some sort of converter that brings the voltage down to the correct amount.

So, has anyone done this before on their bike or know someone who has done so successfully? Thanks in advance for any input!

 

[Motogiro]

Don't use the headlamp circuit because if it has the BD43 or Motogiro headlamp mod the low beam would shut off for proper hi/lo beam operation.

If you just want to run low current, switched power. You can tap into the the red with a white tracer wire coming from the relay assembly that is sitting on top if your battery. You'll find three wires coming out of the white plug. Red, blue with a white tracer and the red with a white tracer.

If you have the dc cord and plug assembly for your car, it converts the 12 vdc. to 5 vdc.

If not, any USB type lighter plug should do the job for you. As with all circuits make sure you put an inline fuse closest to the source for protection.

 

[texcollect]

I have a Garmin 1490LMT that I use both in the car and on the bike. On the bike I use a RAM Aquabox to keep it dry/protected and power it from a 3BR powersports weather resistance USB outlet on my handlebars. If you use the Aquabox you no longer have access to the on and off button, but the Garmin device is smart in as much that is switches on when it gets power and then gives you the choice to either switch off or continue on internal battery power when you remove power (unplug it from the USB).

So far it works just great.

 

[mrphotoman]

why not use your battery tender plug to use a accessory plug? $5.00 and 1 minute of time and you are done.

one pictured on left

 

[mjmelancon]

Motogiro - I'll stay away from the headlight circuits even though I haven't done the mod, thanks. By "switched power", you mean this setup will allow the power to the cord to shut off when the bike is turned off, correct?

texcollect - I've looked into Ram Mount products, but I would rather a sleeker mount that I can place low on the handlebars. The Ram mount I looked at appears to sit too high and above any protection the windscreen would provide from bugs and rocks. I'm not too worried about a weather proof setup either, since I try and plan my long distance rides around low chances of rain. The USB connector looks nice, but it looks like it bolts onto the battery terminals, and my biggest concern is my battery getting drained if it sits for days in between rides.

mrphotoman - I don't have a Battery Tender, but it would probably be a good idea to get one for the winter months. However, I would like to avoid using an accessory plug and hard wire the power chord for less clutter and to avoid any problems with the plug vibrating loose.

Thanks for the advice guys. I also want to add that I'm not the most experienced when it comes to things electrical.

 

[Wh0M3]

I know that you need to be aware of the amount of power that is going through to the GPS device. I bought a motorcycle that had a Magellan GPS that was wired in. The previous owner told me that he tried to do a direct wiring harness but it fired the GPS unit. So he used a battery tender to 12v DC adapter then used the car adapter of the unit routed around so it was under the seat with the charger end at the handle bars to hook up to the unit. He said this was to make sure it wasn't getting to much power.

I thought this was an easy fix to make sure your not over charging your device but I have thought about replacing it with one of those all weather USB cables to use because I would like to use it for my phone, iTouch, or a GPS to it.

 

[mjmelancon]

All,

Pretty much my ideal setup would be a permanently wired power cable for my GPS that turns on and off with the turn of the key, and will be tucked away neatly after install. Also, the handle bar mount will stay on the bike, even when I'm not using the GPS. This way I can easily pop the Garmin on and off the setup in my car and on my bike whenever I need to. :rockon: Thanks guys!

 

[Motogiro]

Motogiro - I'll stay away from the headlight circuits even though I haven't done the mod, thanks. By "switched power", you mean this setup will allow the power to the cord to shut off when the bike is turned off, correct?

texcollect - I've looked into Ram Mount products, but I would rather a sleeker mount that I can place low on the handlebars. The Ram mount I looked at appears to sit too high and above any protection the windscreen would provide from bugs and rocks. I'm not too worried about a weather proof setup either, since I try and plan my long distance rides around low chances of rain. The USB connector looks nice, but it looks like it bolts onto the battery terminals, and my biggest concern is my battery getting drained if it sits for days in between rides.

mrphotoman - I don't have a Battery Tender, but it would probably be a good idea to get one for the winter months. However, I would like to avoid using an accessory plug and hard wire the power chord for less clutter and to avoid any problems with the plug vibrating loose.

Thanks for the advice guys. I also want to add that I'm not the most experienced when it comes to things electrical.

Yes, it would be switched this way.

 

[markersniffen]

First thing I did to my bike before I got the plates was install a distribution block/power relay under the seat. I'm pretty handy but don't have a lot of electrical experience, so I found this generic guide to be invaluable:

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

Now I just run any new device I want to power (iphone, heated grips, gopro) to the distribution block under the seats and I know when I turn the key off my battery won't die.

Hope this is useful!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

why not use your battery tender plug to use a accessory plug? $5.00 and 1 minute of time and you are done.

one pictured on left

The GPS takes 5 volts, not 12 volts and needs a converter...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just mounted my Garmin 2300 to the bike. I had "Powerlet" custom make a conversion cable (see below pic's) for 12 to 5 volts.

I did have to have them make the non mini USB end with heavier wire as the light, original wire kept breaking on me. If going this route, ask for a heavier gauge wire (you can see in the first picturt the very top left, where the line is attached and heat shrunk)

The harness was a bit cheaper $ wise (even thou it was custom) as there wasn't one end on it. I tied the ground wire into a power plate I have installed and tapped into the right side RUNNING LIGHT from the directional for power.

The fused end was a Posi tap fused end, I didn't use the round end (I was going to use the fuse box but went with the running light line). Powerlet supplies the very short piece so I can remove the mount with one plug, the rest of the bike is hardwired.

It would have been slightly cheaper to put on a cig lighter and use the factory power reducer but I don't believe that's waterproof and I didn't want it vibrating loose when underway. This set up is well hidden, waterproof and will NOT come loose...


The last picture with the GPS mounted looks crooked but is actually dead on, just the camera angle...

See next post for further pictures...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

other pic's:

Powerlet: http://www.powerlet.com/

Posi tap in-line fuse (third picture from the right )and posi tap into wire: http://www.posi-lock.com/shoponline.cfm#1


The semi-flat black bracket, I made to fit the Ram mount and my bar riser maount(also home made).

 

[lomax]

I run a Zumo 450/550 on mine and just wired it directly to the battery. Yea I have to turn it off but then again, it does not turn off if I stop for a while.

Marc

 

[FZ6 Naked!]

Hello everyone,

I've done some research on mounting GPS units to a bike, but haven't seen a whole lot on the details of how to actually wire the power cable into the motorcycle's electrical system. I found this by doing a quick search on the web:

Motorcycle / Bike Mount for Garmin Nuvi 1450 1450LMT 1490T 1490LMT GPS

Basically I have a Garmin Nuvi 1450 which works great in my car, and I would like to use it interchangeably between both my car and bike. The unit can run off the internal battery for about an hour to 1.5 hours, but wiring the power cable to the bike would be ideal. I know that other people have said that taping into the headlight, taillight, or even the ignition is the way to go so that the cable isn't drawing power when the bike is turned off. Another point was made that 5 volts must be supplied to the GPS and not the 12 volts that comes directly from the battery. I'm not 100% sure, but the black box on the power cable from the mount guys kit might be some sort of converter that brings the voltage down to the correct amount.

So, has anyone done this before on their bike or know someone who has done so successfully? Thanks in advance for any input!

First, unless you leave your GPS plugged in forever, you shouldn't have to worry about draining your battery. The USB specification draws 500mA, which is pretty close to nothing. If that can drain your battery then I think your battery is nearing death. I would actually recommend going straight to battery because when you're stopped for a break or for the night you can also charge your cell phone, camera, or whatever other USB device you may have without having to run your bike.

I've linked what I set up recently. The RAM mount is very sleek and almost not noticeable. The one I got is MUCH smaller than the ones I was seeing online. The weatherproof USB device will automatically convert you from 12 volts to 5 volts, so you can go straight to the battery without worrying about a thing. Just put a couple of clips on the leads from the USB wires and connect to battery! There are a few other threads that are awesome for ideas on how to mount the unit, but I have to get to work so I don't have time to look them up If I have time when I get home I'll try to post up if someone else hasn't already.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/44325-gps-mount-usb-charging-setup.html

 

[Pope Mobile]

I just direct wired a car outlet to the battery and mounted it to the fairing. Went to Radio Shack and get a car to USB. It's got two USB ports, so I can run the GPS and charge my phone or iPod at the same time.

 

[Motogiro]

First, unless you leave your GPS plugged in forever, you shouldn't have to worry about draining your battery. The USB specification draws 500mA, which is pretty close to nothing. If that can drain your battery then I think your battery is nearing death. I would actually recommend going straight to battery because when you're stopped for a break or for the night you can also charge your cell phone, camera, or whatever other USB device you may have without having to run your bike.

I've linked what I set up recently. The RAM mount is very sleek and almost not noticeable. The one I got is MUCH smaller than the ones I was seeing online. The weatherproof USB device will automatically convert you from 12 volts to 5 volts, so you can go straight to the battery without worrying about a thing. Just put a couple of clips on the leads from the USB wires and connect to battery! There are a few other threads that are awesome for ideas on how to mount the unit, but I have to get to work so I don't have time to look them up If I have time when I get home I'll try to post up if someone else hasn't already.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/44325-gps-mount-usb-charging-setup.html

1 milliampere = 0.001 amperes

500x.001 =.5 that's 1/2 an ampere and will cause a problem on a smaller motorcycle battery. Chances are the 500 ma rating is the max. draw charging a dead device but still not a good practice to leave draw on your battery overnight.

 

[ste]

my friend has a yamaha plug that allows quick and easy connection to battery without the need to lift up the tank
similar to image below
hope this helps

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't think I would be leaving any devices unattended to that plug to charge or hanging loose up front in either case..

The other GPS, 2300, etc, also have a built in battery with over 3 hours life so if you turn the bike off, it still works and can be brought inside (for playing, setting tracks, etc).


I was looking at getting a Garmin 550 or 660 but they have the same type screen my 2300 has. Just sunlight reflecting off my white shirt puts a fair amount of glare on the screen during the day making it harder to read.

I e-mailed Garmin about putting whatever screen they use for the Marine GPS', to put that on a MC specific GPS. The marine screens are totally different and can easily be seen in full sunlight..

Once they come out with that, I'll spring $600+ for a MC unit.

(I still have my Garmin SPIII that works fine, just no more updates)

 

[FZ6 Naked!]

1 milliampere = 0.001 amperes

500x.001 =.5 that's 1/2 an ampere and will cause a problem on a smaller motorcycle battery. Chances are the 500 ma rating is the max. draw charging a dead device but still not a good practice to leave draw on your battery overnight.

Unga-bunga. I blame not having had any coffee when I posted! I was thinking of battery draw giving up to ~13 hours of constant USB charging. Most USB devices will stop drawing power once fully charged, so it should be safe, but I still didn't bother to factor in what would be required to start the bike the next day, or if you were charging more than one device at a time

I don't know the numbers for how much juice it takes to actually get the bike fired up, so I can't give any estimate on how long you can (optimally with average battery on full charge) charge a USB device before having to think about getting back in the saddle.

I still think it's better to have the option of charging with the bike off since you'd get at least a good couple of hours of charge time without worry... and that's a lot of internet :thumbup:

Either way, get that GPS so you can get out and enjoy places you haven't been to! Safe riding!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Unga-bunga. I blame not having had any coffee when I posted! I was thinking of battery draw giving up to ~13 hours of constant USB charging. Most USB devices will stop drawing power once fully charged, so it should be safe, but I still didn't bother to factor in what would be required to start the bike the next day, or if you were charging more than one device at a time

I don't know the numbers for how much juice it takes to actually get the bike fired up, so I can't give any estimate on how long you can (optimally with average battery on full charge) charge a USB device before having to think about getting back in the saddle.

I still think it's better to have the option of charging with the bike off since you'd get at least a good couple of hours of charge time without worry... and that's a lot of internet :thumbup:

Either way, get that GPS so you can get out and enjoy places you haven't been to! Safe riding!

When my battery was beginning to fail, the voltage dropped as as low as 8 volts while cranking and still started...

As for the op, its your choice, keep it hot 100% of the time or have it switched, its your decision and to change it one way or the other isn't hard to do.. +1 on on getting it going and go ride!