"Good measure" preventative maintenance?

[blackONblack]

Greetings gearheads...

Just wondering what mechanical issues you all consider a good idea to check out on a yearly basis. I don't really have the know-how, time, or space to do my own maintenance, so before I put the bike up for the winter this year, I'm thinking I'll take it to a shop for a once over. I know I'm just asking to be gouged if I take it to a shop and ask them to tell me if it needs work :BLAA: so that's where you all come in! What's the kind of thing I should ask them to look at, what should I be wary of paying them to do, etc? I'm thinking stuff like the brakes, tires, chain, and cooling system should all be checked out, is there anything else?

The bike has about 4k miles on it, and is a 2008 FZ6.

 

[FinalImpact]

Greetings gearheads...

Just wondering what mechanical issues you all consider a good idea to check out on a yearly basis. I don't really have the know-how, time, or space to do my own maintenance, so before I put the bike up for the winter this year, I'm thinking I'll take it to a shop for a once over. I know I'm just asking to be gouged if I take it to a shop and ask them to tell me if it needs work :BLAA: so that's where you all come in! What's the kind of thing I should ask them to look at, what should I be wary of paying them to do, etc? I'm thinking stuff like the brakes, tires, chain, and cooling system should all be checked out, is there anything else?

The bike has about 4k miles on it, and is a 2008 FZ6.

My list goes like this:

• Clean it thoroughly getting all the bugs off and wax it. Clean stanchion tubes and rear shock of debris that can pit and rust them.
  
• Clean and lube the chain. Inspect every roller to confirm it turns freely by hand.
• Add gas stabilizer to tank, mix it, and ride it for at least 10 miles. Top off tank, fill to rim.
• Change engine oil. Its acidic from combustion and should not sit for 3 months.
• Brakes - bleed them flushing all old fluid out. The fluid is hygroscopic and attracts moisture. If it has NOT been done in the last year, do it before parking it.
• Coolant - flush and replace if you suspect it is the original from 2008.
• Fully charge battery and disconnect it. Store in warm place if practical. Should be good for 3 months.
• Store bike on center stand. If practical, block under header to unload front suspension slightly.
  
• If stored in a small tight place I hang a bag of dehumidifier in with the bike under the cover.
• Rodent control; Place new dryer sheets under seat, by the ECM, into the inlet of the Air box, under the tank etc. It seems to deter rodents.

That's the basics. The more you take apart the more you can clean and inspect.

 

[FIZZER6]

From a strict mechanical standpoint here are the things I find important to check often on this bike:

1. Brakes - fluid level, hoses, caliper bolt tightness, pad thickness, lube pivot points, check levers for smoothness, lube pivots as needed, etc.

2. Steering head - check for looseness by placing bike on center stand, have someone push down on the rear of the bike and then pull the front wheel forward and backward, there should be no play.

3. Drive Chain - Check for stiff rollers or links every time you lube it (500 miles)

4. Cables - Lube the throttle and clutch cables every oil change or as needed. I use engine oil as per the manual and I use a long syringe to get it down the cable tubes.

All engine related stuff should at least be checked per the manual but these 4 are related directly to safety as failures of these mechanical items can be bad, very bad.

 

[FinalImpact]

From a strict mechanical standpoint here are the things I find important to check often on this bike:

1. Brakes - fluid level, hoses, caliper bolt tightness, pad thickness, lube pivot points, check levers for smoothness, lube pivots as needed, etc.

2. Steering head - check for looseness by placing bike on center stand, have someone push down on the rear of the bike and then pull the front wheel forward and backward, there should be no play.

3. Drive Chain - Check for stiff rollers or links every time you lube it (500 miles)

4. Cables - Lube the throttle and clutch cables every oil change or as needed. I use engine oil as per the manual and I use a long syringe to get it down the cable tubes.

All engine related stuff should at least be checked per the manual but these 4 are related directly to safety as failures of these mechanical items can be bad, very bad.

^^ +1

Add tire inspection to your list; rotate, look, inspect. Perahps DOT code for expiration date isn't a bad idea either; i.e. greater than 4 years old = replace esp if tires is in the weather the whole time!

 

[FIZZER6]

^ Agreed. Tires are second only to good working brakes in order of safety importance. :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Get the bike down here for "Winter" and I'll keep the battery charged!

Just leave me the keys!! That's riding season down here!! Might get it back with a shiney header too!

 

[FinalImpact]

Get the bike down here for "Winter" and I'll keep the battery charged!

Just leave me the keys!! That's riding season down here!! Might get it back with a shiney header too!

I have a feeling it may never shine like yours no matter how long I leave it! lol
:BLAA:

 

[iSteve]

Before you put it away for the winter!!!!

Summer hasn't even started yet, there's still 5 months of riding.

 

[FinalImpact]

Get the bike down here for "Winter" and I'll keep the battery charged!

Just leave me the keys!! That's riding season down here!! Might get it back with a shiney header too!

I have a feeling it may never shine like yours no matter how long I leave it! lol
:BLAA:

At least its LOUD as F'fffing hell now! You'll hear me when I hit Georgia! :BLAA:

Sorry OP! Back to your questions!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

blackONblack,

Also, a good coat of wax on everthing, stuff the exhaust with a towel (or drier sheet to keep rodents out) and I'd put a cover (that breathes) on it. A light coat of Wd 40 on anything you can't wax and could possibly rust (fork tubes, etc)

If its parked in an attached garage and doesn't get terribly cold, I'd leave the battery in and hooked up to a good, automatic battery tender (thru an SAE connector wired direct to the battery-so you don't have to raise and lower the tank constantly, especially now that the fuel tank is full).

Even if you do remove the battery, I'd still hook it up to a small (.8 to 1.25) automatic tender to keep the battery 100%.