WastedWrath
Site Supporter
Hi,
I feel like a complete leech but you guys are the absolute number 1 place to come for these bikes, I've used it for years now; so even if you can't help, thanks.
I have a: 2008 FZ6-S2 ABS
27000 miles, not done valve clearance.
Kept outside, no cover ( I know) in South England weather
Mon 18th Jan
Not used or maintained for a while (covid, perhaps once a week for 30 mins). After 10 minutes, completely dies. Running on 2 cylinders. Showing error code 34 on the screen (afaik this is a coil ignition issue).
Decide to ride it to bike shop, completely lose all power during ride (high rpm).
Get to bike shop, they get it running somehow and show that the coil has gone (sprayed water on headers).
End up replacing the ECU with a used one (burned out, that was why I lost all power)
Replaced the broken coil as well .
Beginning of Feb
When I get it back, take it for two 25 mile rides (working perfectly fine) and then don’t use it for a week. As soon as I start it up I can tell its running on two cylinders again.
Get it recovered to the shop, they change the other coil over.
So at this point both coils had gone on two different ECUs
Middle of Feb
I then do maintenance, replace all spark plugs (gapped to manual spec), new air filter,new oil, oil filter.
Rides smooth and purring for about 300 miles until last week on a hot days ride. Turned the bike off whilst having a break and ignition really struggled to get it started again. Seemed to be ok whilst riding.
Decided to test if it would start again (stupidly in the middle of nowhere) and it would turn over but I wouldn't get started. Managed to push start it however anything above 4k RPM or a heavy twist of the throttle the bike would give no more power and judder somewhat. Felt like two cyclinders were fine and the other two would "activate" when engaging throttle but would sputter.
When idling at lights I had to engage the throttle a little otherwise it would drop down to 500~ rpm.
Managed to get it home and it wouldn't start again. Video of what it sounded like all over the bike and starting it again here:
Today:
I have started it twice in a week and it starts up fine) however I haven't ridden it.
I have charged the battery (was on 12~V and now on 13.5V.)
12.5 with key on and no start, 13.23 bike on and idle.
Checked fuses are all working fine in the fusebox.
Checked for fuel line kinks, nothing I can see.
Idled the bike to 70degC and checked headers temperature with gun. Finding that header 1 and 3 are 190-200 degC and 2 and 4 are 140-160 degC. Not sure if this is normal on a cold to idling bike? video here:
Things I plan on doing:
1. Get Fuel and add in Redex
2. Unseat and seat spark plugs and add dielectric grease on caps
3. Check gapping of spark plugs again
4. Measure resistance of plug caps
5. Swap spark plugs and see if temperature of headers changes
Also plan on follow some pointers from here, here and here
I don’t think (amateur opinion) it will be the coil again or the ECU as they have just been changed (all bought used).
I would really appreciate some opinions on what to do at this time as I am time limited due to moving country in October, I won't be taking the bike and it might not be worth the money (I have time) to get this all checked and possibly not fixed even at a garage. (do people buy bike with these sorts of problems?)
Thanks.
I feel like a complete leech but you guys are the absolute number 1 place to come for these bikes, I've used it for years now; so even if you can't help, thanks.
I have a: 2008 FZ6-S2 ABS
27000 miles, not done valve clearance.
Kept outside, no cover ( I know) in South England weather
Mon 18th Jan
Not used or maintained for a while (covid, perhaps once a week for 30 mins). After 10 minutes, completely dies. Running on 2 cylinders. Showing error code 34 on the screen (afaik this is a coil ignition issue).
Decide to ride it to bike shop, completely lose all power during ride (high rpm).
Get to bike shop, they get it running somehow and show that the coil has gone (sprayed water on headers).
End up replacing the ECU with a used one (burned out, that was why I lost all power)
Replaced the broken coil as well .
Beginning of Feb
When I get it back, take it for two 25 mile rides (working perfectly fine) and then don’t use it for a week. As soon as I start it up I can tell its running on two cylinders again.
Get it recovered to the shop, they change the other coil over.
So at this point both coils had gone on two different ECUs
Middle of Feb
I then do maintenance, replace all spark plugs (gapped to manual spec), new air filter,new oil, oil filter.
Rides smooth and purring for about 300 miles until last week on a hot days ride. Turned the bike off whilst having a break and ignition really struggled to get it started again. Seemed to be ok whilst riding.
Decided to test if it would start again (stupidly in the middle of nowhere) and it would turn over but I wouldn't get started. Managed to push start it however anything above 4k RPM or a heavy twist of the throttle the bike would give no more power and judder somewhat. Felt like two cyclinders were fine and the other two would "activate" when engaging throttle but would sputter.
When idling at lights I had to engage the throttle a little otherwise it would drop down to 500~ rpm.
Managed to get it home and it wouldn't start again. Video of what it sounded like all over the bike and starting it again here:
Today:
I have started it twice in a week and it starts up fine) however I haven't ridden it.
I have charged the battery (was on 12~V and now on 13.5V.)
12.5 with key on and no start, 13.23 bike on and idle.
Checked fuses are all working fine in the fusebox.
Checked for fuel line kinks, nothing I can see.
Idled the bike to 70degC and checked headers temperature with gun. Finding that header 1 and 3 are 190-200 degC and 2 and 4 are 140-160 degC. Not sure if this is normal on a cold to idling bike? video here:
Things I plan on doing:
1. Get Fuel and add in Redex
2. Unseat and seat spark plugs and add dielectric grease on caps
3. Check gapping of spark plugs again
4. Measure resistance of plug caps
5. Swap spark plugs and see if temperature of headers changes
Also plan on follow some pointers from here, here and here
I don’t think (amateur opinion) it will be the coil again or the ECU as they have just been changed (all bought used).
I would really appreciate some opinions on what to do at this time as I am time limited due to moving country in October, I won't be taking the bike and it might not be worth the money (I have time) to get this all checked and possibly not fixed even at a garage. (do people buy bike with these sorts of problems?)
Thanks.