Fuel pump replacement

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now thinking on how to perform an injector test...

Before mounting I'll check all the sensors connectors and will clean&grease them

I think/ re-call, someone, similar issues, plugged everything together but with the injectors/fuel bar out and powered up the fuel rail. Obviously, could be very dangerous..

I would think they'd be someplace in your area that can test/clean your injectors.. Their about $25 each here in the US to clean/test..

 

[pmmcanon]

I think/ re-call, someone, similar issues, plugged everything together but with the injectors/fuel bar out and powered up the fuel rail. Obviously, could be very dangerous..

I would think they'd be someplace in your area that can test/clean your injectors.. Their about $25 each here in the US to clean/test..

Thanks Scott, this was the B plan . I've done it in the past: You install the tank, conect the fuel hose and the pump conectors and put the rail aside of the bike, on a chair i.e., put small bottles on each injector and press ignition... Not the safest method but you can check if they work. I'm gonna try other one because this is ok to check but not to clean. Pics coming with all the homemade stuff I'm preparing

 

[pmmcanon]

Homemade conections to be attached to a carb cleaner spray

 

[pmmcanon]

Waiting for the carb cleaner I found a better system to make the cleaner go through the injector with better pressure and improved sealing.
An 12 mm outer measurement syringe, you take away the plunger and extract the rubber seal of it, then make a small hole at the center and plug it to the injector... It goes in through the syringe body with perfect seal. On the other side (the knee place) you attack the small tube from the spray

 

[pmmcanon]

Pics

 

[pmmcanon]

Bad news again... I cleaned and tested the whole fuel line. The injectors seems to be ok, sprayed with carb cleaner and mounted. I also cleaned the Lambda O2 sensor. The bike has the same sympthoms: It start up at 0% throttle but when you turn the gas it stalls, more bad in cold and as it warms it seems to improve but stall moves to a diferent rpm range... Now a little bit lost...
I've run the diags, the pump has 12v, it run the test cycles without error, the pressure sensor of the rail dosn't give any error, the TPS also is under meassurement, and no errors at the diags.
What should I do next?

 

[pmmcanon]

Things I forgot to mention:
Tested the bike with no filter to check if it was clogged (It's a KN) same result
´Fired it with the Lambda O2 sensor dismounted, same result

 

[Gary in NJ]

When you get the bike to operating temperature, what tempeature is it running?

 

[pmmcanon]

When you get the bike to operating temperature, what tempeature is it running?

75/78 degrees on the road, and in the garaje it moves up to 98 when the fan acts and goes down to 80 degrees

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You did check the TPS thru the dash? No skipping of #'s?

.

 

[pmmcanon]

You did check the TPS thru the dash? No skipping of #'s?

.

Yes, it goes from 16 to 106 (or 116 I don't remember)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe the #'s should be 16 (or so) to 100 (can be slightly higher) but yours sounds considerably higher.

Here's a thread (and do a search here) that may be helpful: https://www.600riders.com/threads/indicators-for-bad-tps.50339/

It sounds like the TPS is not responding when turning the throttle, IE, butterflys (more air opening up) but not additional fuel..

Might try spritzing some fuel(remove air filter, use maybe a spray bottle) direct into the TB's when revving and see if the engine responds.. I suspect it will...

 

[pmmcanon]

I believe the #'s should be 16 (or so) to 100 (can be slightly higher) but yours sounds considerably higher.

Here's a thread (and do a search here) that may be helpful: https://www.600riders.com/threads/indicators-for-bad-tps.50339/

It sounds like the TPS is not responding when turning the throttle, IE, butterflys (more air opening up) but not additional fuel..

Might try spritzing some fuel(remove air filter, use maybe a spray bottle) direct into the TB's when revving and see if the engine responds.. I suspect it will...

Hi Scott, sorry for my inaccurate answer, rechecked again: 16 to 101... so should be ok

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

TPS' have been known to go bad but test fine thru the dash.

Read up on that thread.

.

 

[pmmcanon]

Tested the TPS through all the range and it goes smooth increasing the values by 1 if you turn the gas smoothly...
Another thing I've just noticed is that when you turn the key to ignition the temp (at the top left of the dash) shows HIGH... and the bike is cold stopped for at least 3 hours, it's not allways but maybe something wrong with the engine temp sensor

 

[Gary in NJ]

The temperature sensor should not be reporting high when the engine is cold.

 

[pmmcanon]

The temperature sensor should not be reporting high when the engine is cold.

Sure Gary, but it's not allways, just sometimes it shows HIGH and after some seconds it goes to the real engine temp... Also checked the intake temp sensor and it shows the correct air environment temp...
I'm going crazy
Going to change this morning the sparks as a normal test procedure. Keep you informed

 

[Gary in NJ]

I’m just going back to the beginning here...

Are you sure that the replacement fuel pump provides the correct pressure to the fuel rail/regulator? You didn’t have the current problem with the old pump, but with the replacement pump you seem to have a fuel delivery issue.

Could this pump without a part number be supplying too much fuel to be regulated properly? The lack of a part number makes me think it’s a knock off. Companies like Bosch don’t hide their products.

 

[pmmcanon]

I’m just going back to the beginning here...

Are you sure that the replacement fuel pump provides the correct pressure to the fuel rail/regulator? You didn’t have the current problem with the old pump, but with the replacement pump you seem to have a fuel delivery issue.

Could this pump without a part number be supplying too much fuel to be regulated properly? The lack of a part number makes me think it’s a knock off. Companies like Bosch don’t hide their products.

It's a possibility indeed... Could be delivering more fuel and the opposite.
To add more confusion to this mad post: I've checked the sparks today, cleaned and adjusted electrodes, I fired it and stalls when cold... I let one hour stopped and fired again without touching the gas until it got warm 75 degrees, no stalls and a 30 km run on the road without any problem

 

[Motogiro]

Sounds like the ECU is not giving a richer mix when the motor is cold. When you say 75 degs. I'll assume this is coolant/engine temp centigrade.
If this clears up once the engine is warm and there is no fueling problem full throttle, it's probably not a fuel volume delivery problem.
Another ECU fuel mix is governed by the air temp sensor. You are not seeing a code for this so I think it has no merit to the problem.

One thing you might also try, is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or more. ECUs develop volatile memory over time and a reset by removing battery power can give the ECU the ability to relearn and get a new baseline on the sensors.