Fuel pump and starter not working

[trepetti]

Plug everything back together and measure the voltage at the fuel pump connector. The Red/blue should have 12V and the black should be ground. Start there and work your way back.

 

[Josh4529]

Ok but I can tell you I have no voltage going to the fuel pump I have about 10v going to the float gas gauge what is the next thing back to check from the fuel pump the relay or ??? And was the voltage correct on the relay I gave you earlier

 

[Josh4529]

And which red and blue wire was it the one I took the pic of or the one on the left side

 

[trepetti]

I think you had the right wire, but you unplugged it from the starting circuit cut-off relay, which is the source of the voltage. With the connector plugged in you should have 12v at the Red/Blue wire. If you don't, then look at the Red/Black wire (triggers the relay) and the solid Red wire (source of fuel pump voltage). Both should have 12v.

Red/Black comes from the cutoff switch and the solid red comes from the 'fuel injection' fuse.

If Red/Black is 0v, then check the cutoff switch. If solid red is 0v, then check the fuse. Your original complaint of power reducing makes the fuse unlikely.

There have been LOTS of issues with the cutoff switch degrading, causing a loss of performance. I am leaning that way.

Did you check your private messages lately?

 

[Motogiro]

^^^^^Yes plug the unit in ^^^^^
I'm seeing you testing with your negative multimeter lead at the plug where there is no ground source. test with your negative multimeter lead at a good frame ground or at the negative battery post,

Is there 12 vdc at that red with blue tracer wire?

 

[trepetti]

^^^^^Yes plug the unit in ^^^^^
I'm seeing you testing with your negative multimeter lead at the plug where there is no ground source. test with your negative multimeter lead at a good frame ground or at the negative battery post,

Is there 12 vdc at that red with blue tracer wire?

Thanks Cliff. I missed the black test lead

 

[Gary in NJ]

Ok, if you have spark, then your tip over sensor is not the problem. You might have an issue with the fuel pump or one of relays. If you can get a multimeter on the fuel pump wires, you can tell if the pump has failed or if there is a bad relay. If you have voltage, but the pump doesn’t engage then it’s the pump. If there is no voltage when you turn the key on (during the prime period) then it’s a relay.

 

[Josh4529]

Well fellows I believe I found my problem because I'm getting no volts and no continuity from it now that it is hooked up so that means the relay is bad huh even though it was clicking ......thank you guys soooo much I have been running around like a chicken with my head cut off thing to figure this out and thank you for the schematics sir

 

[trepetti]

Well fellows I believe I found my problem because I'm getting no volts and no continuity from it now that it is hooked up so that means the relay is bad huh even though it was clicking ......thank you guys soooo much I have been running around like a chicken with my head cut off thing to figure this out and thank you for the schematics sir

Glad to hear.....

I'd be really happy if you created a signature line with the details of your bike and checked in regularly to participate in the forum. We are only as good as the cumulative knowledge and experience of the FZ6 community-at-large. Help support the forum so that the next person to join up with a problem can get the same level of help and attention as you did...... and I did when I first joined.

Ride safe

 

[Motogiro]

In addition the computer controls the fuel injection fuel pump relay. Check that there is zero volts at the blue with yellow tracer wire to ground if you see voltage, you should not because that circuit is pulled to ground via the ECU which activate the relay coil. If you're pretty sure that module is bad it's not expensive. About $34- $35 USD

#23 on the parts fiche 5VK-81950-31-00

2006 Yamaha FZ-6 (FZS6VC) Electrical 2

Shop online for OEM Electrical 2 parts that fit your 2006 Yamaha FZ-6 (FZS6VC), search all our OEM Parts or call at 252-758-3084

www.ronayers.com

 

[Motogiro]

Glad to hear.....

I'd be really happy if you created a signature line with the details of your bike and checked in regularly to participate in the forum. We are only as good as the cumulative knowledge and experience of the FZ6 community-at-large. Help support the forum so that the next person to join up with a problem can get the same level of help and attention as you did...... and I did when I first joined.

Ride safe

Yeah, I love this forum! Great, helpful members that have constantly provided help and friendship for years.
Best motorcycle gang I've ever met. I'm just waiting for my vest with the big patch on the back......and maybe some chaps!

 

[Josh4529]

Ok I. Will check it thank motogiro

 

[trepetti]

Updates?

 

[trepetti]

@Josh4529 I am guessing that the issue is fixed and you are out having fun riding. When you get a chance make sure to give us a status update. We all enjoy helping other riders, and the only payback is the knowledge that we helped someone who needed it.

Looking forwards to some good news from you......

 

[Josh4529]

Updates?

Well guys I have some very disheartening news the 16 pin fuel relay did not fix the problem......damn I just knew it was gonna start......so guys help me out plz where do I go from here as too tracing the heavily taped up fuel pumps path too the power what else could it be besides the relay....plz help.....thanks in advance too all of you who take the time to help motorcycle enthusiast like me it's means the world to me....anyways thank you

 

[Motogiro]

Did you do the test in post #30?

Fuel pump and starter not working

Plug everything back together and measure the voltage at the fuel pump connector. The Red/blue should have 12V and the black should be ground. Start there and work your way back.

www.600riders.com

All of the tests we are talking about must pass. If you have a bike that's had wiring hacked you can end up with intermittent problems which are always fun and may create additional, if not new bald spots.

If you test a module incorrectly you can damage it so if your not familiar with electrical with an understanding of some of the theory trouble shooting can be frustrating.
We're still hear to help!

 

[Cocoloco]

Iam having the same problem like josh, no power to red/blue tracer wire
I have spark but no power to the pump

 

[trepetti]

Iam having the same problem like josh, no power to red/blue tracer wire
I have spark but no power to the pump

The fuel pump power path is:
1 - Battery to fuel injection fuse
2 - Fuel injection fuse to starting circuit cutoff relay (RED wire)
3 - Starting circuit cutoff relay to fuel pump (RED/BLUE wire) if the conditions are correct. That means either:
a - The transmission is in neutral or
b - The sidestand is up and the clutch lever is pulled in

 

[Gary in NJ]

Welcome to the forum. Confirm that you have power going to the starting circuit relay. The fuel pump is powered from that relay. If you have power into the relay, but no power out it could mean that the relay has failed. There are several interlocks that provide signals to the relay, so before you go and replace parts be sure to check the circuits that drive the starting relay.

A copy of the FSM wire schematic will really be needed for this.

 

[Cocoloco]

Hey ya'll ive cleaned all connectors and checked continuity what ive found is the black wires attached to small black box
Ive got it sorted now, i will probably need help later after ive finished cleaning my fuel tank
Thank you!