Front sprocket vs. rear sprocket change?

chiller

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So I finally got around to redoing or correcting my SPEED-O-HEALER. NO problems with the install, as a matter of fact they are so Persis. Going from 16/46 to 15/48 calculating for a 5% factory margin of error (i have no clue using these big words) but the correction was -14.8. So next you go to the bike and follow the instructions step buy step and thats it, done. Its raining so i will check it out tomorrow. The radder that my friend cop was a little off.
how hard is the speedo healer install ?
 

opds9091

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not at all hard, just as long as you read direction that was me, ounce it started to sound like ALIEN, my dad came out, after that 1-2 hours. And as far as getting the numbers/calibration its right there in the book, real easy.
 
F

formula154

So I finally got around to redoing or correcting my SPEED-O-HEALER. NO problems with the install, as a matter of fact they are so Persis. Going from 16/46 to 15/48 calculating for a 5% factory margin of error (i have no clue using these big words) but the correction was -14.8. So next you go to the bike and follow the instructions step buy step and thats it, done. Its raining so i will check it out tomorrow. The radder that my friend cop was a little off.


I set mine up the same way. How far off was the radar?
 
F

formula154

how hard is the speedo healer install ?

You unplug one wire and plug the two ends into the speedo healer wires. Then you run the wire and box back to the tool bag compartment under the seat. After you have done one you could probably do the second one in 15 mins. Then you set it like setting the time on a digital watch. It's easy. Go slow. Read the instructions. Follow the instructions. No problem.:thumbup:
 
F

formula154

I changed my front to -1. Later I changed the back to +2. After I changed the back my gril said it was a lot smoother on take off. Now if I could just learn to stop braking so hard and causing her to push her big American breast in to my back we would be set. I hate it when she does that.:hug:
 
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SovietRobot

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Stock FZ6 gearing is 16/46 or ~0.347.

Going -1 in the front changes this to 15/46 or ~0.326.

Now if you were to only go +3 in the rear you would have 16/49 or ~0.326.

So to answer your question, going -1 in the front is approximately the same ratio as going +3 in the rear. A common mod is to go -1/+2, which is 15/48 or 0.3125. The lower the ratio the quicker the acceleration and higher RPMs, however you will have less top end speed. There is no catch, only that going -1 in the front is a quicker/easier install IMHO than going +3 in the rear.

Also regarding your chain questions, usually a change is made to a 520 chain to save weight as they are lighter than a 530 chain.

I've never seen gearing explained that way, but it gets the job done.

Usually you divide the rear sprocket(say 48) by the countershaft sprocket(say 15), which gives you a give ratio of 3.2 - A higher number means quicker acceleration, while a lower number means higher top speed.
 

SovietRobot

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so now best setting for best acceleration and better top end speed is ?

Stock. The stock 16/46 is a good mix of acceleration and top speed.
You can't increase both by changing the final drive gearing.

Going +1 in the front will give you a slightly higher top speed and lower highway RPM, while going -1 or -1/+2 will give you quicker acceleration, but less top speed.
 

jamesfz6

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Do both sprockets. Dont just do one, you wont notice a huge difference. I have played around with different sprocket combinations and the standard 1 down/ 2 up configuration works the best for everyday riding. And dont worry about the top end loss, how often are you riding at 145mph anyway. If you wanted all you top speed you wouldnt be looking to change the sprockets in the first place.
 

OneTrack

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I installed a 15t front sprocket a couple of weeks ago. I set my Speedohealer to -11.1%, and on the road test with my GPS, the speedo is right on the money throughout the speed range. I corroborated this with my son's Garmin GPS, which also showed the speedo to be correct. I can also now switch between KPH and MPH, which is nice for future trips over the border.
Bike scoots pretty good now. Takeoff from a stop is much smoother and the bike really gets up and goes.
 
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