fork rebuild help!!!

yam ah haaa

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for those of you who have rebuilt your stock forks- i have a 2006 fz6. does anyone know how to remove the hex head bolt on the bottom of the fork? i believe this bolt holds the upper and lower parts of the shock together. it is set in passed where the axle goes. thank you in advance guys.
 

greg

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it's the damping rod

the official way is to use an expensie yamaha damping rod tool...

the cheap way is to ram a wooden broomstick down there, and holding it down tight to stop the rod rotating, unscrew the hex bolt

you may also be able to use an airfix tool to undo it if it's your first attempt

the problem is the bolt is threadlocked in
 
S

Shamus McFeeley

I used a tool that a friend made with a hex key welded into a socket. Put that in an impact gun and it will come right out. You'll need someone to help hold the fork tube though.
 

yam ah haaa

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Ok. i figured out a pretty simple way of doing this. 1st remove the fork cap, spacer, washer, and spring and drain the oil. then replace the above mentioned parts minus the oil. Flip the fork upside down on the ground with an allen wrench in the damper rod bolt facing up. grab the fork and use your weight to compress the spring inside while turning the allen wrench. By using your weight to compress the spring you keep tension on the damper rod assembly which allows you to losen the bolt. You will probably want to slide a short length of pipe or somthing similar over the allen wrench handle to gain leverage. Ultimately its the same concept as the broom handle method but this way you can do it by yourself and you dont risk getting tiny splinters of wood in your fork assembly. I hope this helps anyone whos been pulling their hair out like ive been doing.
 

greg

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Ok. i figured out a pretty simple way of doing this. 1st remove the fork cap, spacer, washer, and spring and drain the oil. then replace the above mentioned parts minus the oil. Flip the fork upside down on the ground with an allen wrench in the damper rod bolt facing up. grab the fork and use your weight to compress the spring inside while turning the allen wrench. By using your weight to compress the spring you keep tension on the damper rod assembly which allows you to losen the bolt. You will probably want to slide a short length of pipe or somthing similar over the allen wrench handle to gain leverage. Ultimately its the same concept as the broom handle method but this way you can do it by yourself and you dont risk getting tiny splinters of wood in your fork assembly. I hope this helps anyone whos been pulling their hair out like ive been doing.

oops, forgot about that way, but it never worked for me as the bolts were on too tight
 

yam ah haaa

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ummmmm. im not sure wat that means. if it has to do with the spacing between the coils on the spring they do get closer to eachother the further down the spring you look.
new question- if anyone has used the "pvc pipe method" to set the fork seals does anyone know what size pipe (diameter) to use, and if i should use the electrical conduit type or the plumbing type.
Just FYI- the other day i almost cut my finger off with a hacksaw trying to cut a length of pipe in half. cut through a nerve and grazed the bone. took 5 stitches and lost all feeling in my left pointer finger. At least i can say i was man enough to drive myself to the ER. I even stopped for a pack of butts on the way LOL.
 

greg

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ummmmm. im not sure wat that means. if it has to do with the spacing between the coils on the spring they do get closer to eachother the further down the spring you look.
new question- if anyone has used the "pvc pipe method" to set the fork seals does anyone know what size pipe (diameter) to use, and if i should use the electrical conduit type or the plumbing type.
Just FYI- the other day i almost cut my finger off with a hacksaw trying to cut a length of pipe in half. cut through a nerve and grazed the bone. took 5 stitches and lost all feeling in my left pointer finger. At least i can say i was man enough to drive myself to the ER. I even stopped for a pack of butts on the way LOL.

seriously the broomstick method probably works just as well, but requires a degree of brute strength and strong grip (or failing that a vice)
 

FinalImpact

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Just FYI- the other day i almost cut my finger off with a hacksaw trying to cut a length of pipe in half. cut through a nerve and grazed the bone. took 5 stitches and lost all feeling in my left pointer finger. At least i can say i was man enough to drive myself to the ER. I even stopped for a pack of butts on the way LOL.

Dude - that's not good. :thumbdown: Rule of thumb on nerves is they grow back to some degree but figure 1mm a day from the accident site to the brain stem (assuming the nerves are aligned close enough to regrow). Your hand being 700 to 900mm away from your brain, well its going to take a while but hopefully it comes back.

Are you talking about cutting pipe to length or splitting it lengthwise? If you're trying to cut it lengthwise for a tool; drill small holes clean through the pipe from one side to the other. Now use a larger bit to open one side of the hole up enough to insert a screw driver tip. Use two wood screws and screw the pipe to a piece of wood. Now use a hand saw to slice the length of the pipe safely. With a slice in the pipe it can be adjusted to different sizes. :thumbup:
 

yam ah haaa

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Wow.....i really wish i knew that before i cut myself. thanks alot dude i really appreciate it. i would definatly be lost without this website lol.
 
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