Ryan T
P.P.P.P.P.P
Okay, this will be long but it's a review, so bare with me.
So I thought of taking pictures of the install but it was pretty simple so I opted not to. I know, that was not looking out for all of you. Hate me now for no pics. Good that's over.
Well, after install I got to say. I'm loving it. It works like a charm and the distance to activate it is just like using a normal garage transmitter. Two flashes of my high beam (this actuates the transmitter, it's not the actual light that does it, and viola, the garage opens and closes).
There are two components, the receiver and the transmitter. The receiver can either replace your current receiver in your garage or you can elect to create a bridge (so to speak) aka jumper from your existing garage unit (that part you push to open and close your door). I opted to use jumper wires, it will be easy to remove them when I move on. KEY NOTE: Disconnect the power to the garage door opener prior to adding or replacing the opening unit on the wall. It was just two wires from the original unit to connectors in the Flass2Pass (F2P) receiver unit. The F2P unit is about 6-10 inches above the existing garage unit. Once I connected it I hooked it back up to ensure everything was working in the current configuration. Now it's time to move to the transmitter.
The transmitter is a small black box (approx 2x2 inch) with two wires. The kit comes with splicers to tap into the high beam wires. Extremely simple to connect: tap into each wire, it doesn't matter about + or -. Once this is done on each wire of the high beam then you can connect the wires from the transmitter to the other end of the splicers (called Posi-Tap). They worked like a charm. Now plug the light adapter back in and you're good to go.
I ended up taking the two side panels (the ones you remove to lift the tank) and the black portion of the inner fairing off for easy access. You'll have to attach the transmitter somewhere. I attached it to a group of wires but I know I'll have to reassess that cause I can hear it moving when I took the test ride.
Overall, the install was easy. The result is outstanding. The unit cost me $72.00 and I consider it well worth it. No worries about replacing batteries, there isn't any.
That's it. No more searching for that oversized remote.
So I thought of taking pictures of the install but it was pretty simple so I opted not to. I know, that was not looking out for all of you. Hate me now for no pics. Good that's over.
Well, after install I got to say. I'm loving it. It works like a charm and the distance to activate it is just like using a normal garage transmitter. Two flashes of my high beam (this actuates the transmitter, it's not the actual light that does it, and viola, the garage opens and closes).
There are two components, the receiver and the transmitter. The receiver can either replace your current receiver in your garage or you can elect to create a bridge (so to speak) aka jumper from your existing garage unit (that part you push to open and close your door). I opted to use jumper wires, it will be easy to remove them when I move on. KEY NOTE: Disconnect the power to the garage door opener prior to adding or replacing the opening unit on the wall. It was just two wires from the original unit to connectors in the Flass2Pass (F2P) receiver unit. The F2P unit is about 6-10 inches above the existing garage unit. Once I connected it I hooked it back up to ensure everything was working in the current configuration. Now it's time to move to the transmitter.
The transmitter is a small black box (approx 2x2 inch) with two wires. The kit comes with splicers to tap into the high beam wires. Extremely simple to connect: tap into each wire, it doesn't matter about + or -. Once this is done on each wire of the high beam then you can connect the wires from the transmitter to the other end of the splicers (called Posi-Tap). They worked like a charm. Now plug the light adapter back in and you're good to go.
I ended up taking the two side panels (the ones you remove to lift the tank) and the black portion of the inner fairing off for easy access. You'll have to attach the transmitter somewhere. I attached it to a group of wires but I know I'll have to reassess that cause I can hear it moving when I took the test ride.
Overall, the install was easy. The result is outstanding. The unit cost me $72.00 and I consider it well worth it. No worries about replacing batteries, there isn't any.
That's it. No more searching for that oversized remote.
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