Flange/Tip differences between FZ6 Headers and R6S headers

lawlberg

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I know there are a ton of posts out there about various R6, R6S and R6R headers being fitted onto the FZ.

After hours of looking through the history for any sort of specifics and dimensions about which header each of you used, I've been unable to determine what the exact differences are.

Is there a difference in the inlet diameter size or the flange size between the R6S and the FZ, or can I just bolt them on? I know the R6R and R6 have different sizes from the R6S, I'm just hoping that the reason the S is different from other R6 models is that it matches our bikes!

Thanks guys!
PS - the reason I'm doing this is to fully eliminate my exhaust from the undertail and just go with dual glasspacks and silencers spitting out in front of the rear wheel (yeah, almost identical to JTarkany's ride)
 

Zealot

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I could be mistaken, but I seem to recall reading (I think FinalImpact said it) that they're more spacious just outside of where they connect to the engine in order to create a difference in pressure and help pull out exhaust gasses during high engine speeds. The rest of the pipe after that is pretty standard, and I'm not sure if there is or isn't a cat in the headers. I think they fit otherwise, assuming they're from an 03 or 04 R6 model, and there was a user who was selling his modded FZ6 with R6 headers.
 

lawlberg

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Why don't you use the stock header and then modify it right before or after the lower CAT?

Good question, I wished I could have just used ours for simplicity, but in order to fabricate what I want, it's not any easier using stock.

The FZ has a nasty stamped 4-1 collector that would be a bear to connect to a muffler without getting too close to the rear tire. The R6S has a 4-2-1 and it still uses a nice round y-pipe that can easily be modified/welded. If I chop it after it collects into 2, I have plenty of space for mufflers from there to the rear wheel.
 

lawlberg

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They're pretty different, I don't think you'd be able to easily match them up:

fzheader.jpg r6sheader.jpg

You see that the FZ is mostly flat, the R6 is stacked one over the other
 

FinalImpact

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The primary down pipe is ~ 0.125" larger than the FZ so it helps on the top end.

As for which one to use on the FZ, not sure which is the best fit for you wanting to split it around the back tire. If you ditch the collector, it may hurt it as the section after the collector keeps the velocity up which will scavenge and fill the cylinders. Single side pipe perhaps?

EDIT: bottom line is you need to retain the 4 into 1 or in this case the 2X2 into 1. There is a thread on here by me on places to buy collectors kits. Most were pretty spendy and obviously you need to TIG SS so keep that in mind.

FWIW: I installed the S1 header on the S2 chassis to rid it of the CATs in the header. Helps the Throttle Response too!


S1 left. S2 right with CATs...
IMG_20150111_131156_485_zpsu6fd6uuv.jpg




Added an Wideband O2 bung to S1 header and made a shorter midpipe using OEM ends for a good fit.
Click here to view the original image of 1016x572px.
IMG_20150114_182431_348_zpsmez30j0y.jpg
 
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lawlberg

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The primary down pipe is ~ 0.125" larger than the FZ so it helps on the top end.

As for which one to use on the FZ, not sure which is the best fit for you wanting to split it around the back tire. If you ditch the collector, it may hurt it as the section after the collector keeps the velocity up which will scavenge and fill the cylinders. Single side pipe perhaps?

EDIT: bottom line is you need to retain the 4 into 1 or in this case the 2X2 into 1. There is a thread on here by me on places to buy collectors kits. Most were pretty spendy and obviously you need to TIG SS so keep that in mind.

FWIW: I installed the S1 header on the S2 chassis to rid it of the CATs in the header. Helps the Throttle Response too!

I'm working with an S1, so no header cats (no any cats at this point). Not really considering mounting a different year FZ header onto it.

Thanks for making me think about exhaust velocity. Wider piping without a final collector would definitely hurt performance (half the pulses per exit, wider diameter tube, and shorter overall pipe = significantly slower exhaust gas), not that performance was driving any of my considerations here.

If I went with a 4-2-glasspack-1 would that work to keep the velocity up? It's my understanding that as long as the exhaust comes to 1 at any point, you're keeping the speed/pulses up where they need to be. Obviously anything in the middle like a cat or glasspack would slow things down a bit, but without a passenger seat and not wanting a side exhaust I don't have a ton of room to work with.
 

FinalImpact

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It would be a cake walk to glasspack after the 2->1 and if performance is not a concern, there ya go. But getting all downpipes into a common collector using "any" OEM exhaust is near impossible until you shorten the primary pipes so the overall length fits under the bike. Which is doable if you make or buy your own 2->1. The big issue being welding the Siamese'd pipes from the outside and not having them leak. Hint, many joined pipes are welded through the collector exit hole! Hard to do with used parts and small pipe diameters!
Good luck!
 

lawlberg

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Hint, many joined pipes are welded through the collector exit hole! Hard to do with used parts and small pipe diameters!

I always wondered how that was supposed to be done. Still no easy task either way.

Back to the root question though - Even though the header tubes of an r6s have a diameter that's .125" larger than mine, do the ends still have the same size (exhaust ports on the engine may be a different way of asking the question) as the FZ?
 

FinalImpact

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This isn't much to go on, but perhaps see if the same exhaust gasket is used on the year you grab the header from? They used that same head up to 05 I think, but you would have to double check that.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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As a side note re the collector end..

When I worked in a(VERY CUSTOM) machine shop MANY years ago, I had to make header for a hydrofoil.

What I (with the direction of the boss) did, was make the round PLATE collector First.

Then drill out for the 4 header pipes. Insert the pipes one at a time and tack weld inside.

Then heat the pipe with a torch and bend the tube to fit the opening, (times four). He'd TIG weld that. That plate with pipes was not going to leak, it couldn't.

Then, go about making the collector, slip over that plate and you had plenty of area / very, very accessible metal to weld..
 

lawlberg

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This isn't much to go on, but perhaps see if the same exhaust gasket is used on the year you grab the header from? They used that same head up to 05 I think, but you would have to double check that.

You're a genius! Thank you!

Exhaust Pipe Gasket $29.52

The list matches what I'd hoped/contains both the 04-09 FZ6 and the 09-10 FZ6R and the 99-05 R6 and 06-09 R6S which leads me to believe that exhausts from each of those years are interchangeable!

Use the same part for Exhaust Gaskets:
2004-2009 FZ6
2009-2010 FZ6R
1999-2005 R6
2006-2009 R6S
 

FinalImpact

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This thread has the links. Pictures are gone.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...urces-list-them-here.html?highlight=collector

Wanted: 4 into 1 merge collector for 08 header for Pre-CAT delete and smooth rounded 90° up-pipe to mid-pip transition.

Options are:
1) Snag an S1 header, polish and mod the rear hanger
2) Mod the 08 header. See option 4
3) Mod R6 header. See option 4
4) Build it

A couple of sources are for merge collectors:
Motorcycle Components-Cone Exhaust Stuff
Exhaust Collector Components, Stainless Steel Collector Components, Turbo Stars & Bullet Components

Collectors, X-Pipes, T-Fittings - Columbia River Mandrel Bending

www.burnsstainless.com

Of course fleebay and amazon for short straight sections are cheap if shipping is free.

If you have a source for 304 or 321 SS tubing that's reasonably priced, post it here.

Regards,
F/I
 
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