Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From the CLOSEST edge of the engine mounted bracket to the inside edge of the swivel clutch lever is 42mm at rest.
(clutch NOT pulled in).

 

[bigborer]

Thank you!

That's not a pic from my bike, just something random from google images.

Can't remember if I've mentioned here before but after reinstalling the engine the clutch cable needed both adjustments almost maxed out to get the required lever slack and a grab point at the mid point of lever travel. I have bought a new OEM clutch cable thinking that the one I have got frayed or something but it crossed my mind that maybe it's not the cable, and maybe it's the slave rod that might have grabbed 1 tooth off, making the cable end sit closer than it should have.

Tomorrow I'll reference those 42mm with what's on my bike.

Theoretically replacing a clutch cable is a quick and easy job, just loosen one end, use some tape to merge the new cable to the old one, pull the old cable and the new one should be in the place on the old one. But I have little free time so I'd like to avoid any non urgent repairs and any possible complications.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Page 5-51 and 5-52 in the Yamaha manual. Your shafts are likely not set in the cover correctly and need to be moved a notch.

In the second pic, areas 1 & 2 are likely off making the lower clutch lever too close


Pic's expire in 7 days..









It's likely not the cable if it's new. If your cable has the sharp bend at the handlebar, the air box needs to come out as that bend will not pull thru the frame easily. Not difficult, just more involved than you would think..



My original cable that DID fray:

 

[bigborer]

Mine measures 22 . something mm, I've definitely caught one or 2 teeth too early. I did have some issues with fitting the clutch cover, as described here: https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6...-abroad-urgent-help-please-32.html#post640694 . tl;dr- I tried multiple times and by following the instructions from the manual, that pull arm would have ended up even more pushed in that it is now.

If I remember I'll try readjust it at the next oil change, but honestly I see no issue running it as it is right now, because clutch is operating just as it should.

Just to confirm we've measured the same way, here's a pic:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yea, that's way too close.

You don't have to pull the clutch cover.


* Take note (mark) the top of the vertical shaft AFTER REMOVING THE upper circlip.

Now, un-hook your clutch cable from the lower lever.

Rotate the lower clutch "arm/lever" COUNTER CLOCKWISE probably 2-3 splines from the main vertical shaft.
(We're trying to get the lever in the correct position, eventually the marks will tell if it IS correct).

Put pressure (just by hand) on the lever inwards (as if engaging the clutch). The marks above should line up on
the case and lever, If not, re-adjust another spline (one way or the other).

Those marks should line up with the clutch at rest, cable adjusted correctly.

Your now going to have to re-adjust all the play out of the main clutch cable.



Agreed, it shouldn't hurt anything running like that, except your about out of adjustability..


**AND, "measuring wise" we both measured the same to the moveable end of the cable "clip", BUT, I measured to the BRACKET BOLTED to the block, NOT the end of the cable (a difference of maybe 3mm's)

 

[bigborer]

It's got now about 1500km since the rebuild. The last ride was 4-5 hours long, only stopping for gas once. The bike has ran well so far, and I think it's safe to say it's had the engine break in finished.

Next on the list are replacing the oil + filter, and adjusting the clutch lever (wasn't aware that it was removable from the shaft).

 

[bigborer]

After the last post I've done ~150 km more, and left the bike with the drain plug and filter open to drain, since yesterday (didn't need this bike today). As I've found out with filtering used oil as (an easy health check for any engine), it takes us to 1-2 days before all visible stuff gets out of the clear plastic container I use for the to be filtered oil.

Now that the oil is out, before putting the new oil in I'll:

-take out and clean/wash the oil sensor, as it's been acting up again, showing the red oil light few minutes after starting the engine, both when leaving for the last trip and when returning.
-take out and replace the liquid gaskets for the side covers (wanted to buy paper gaskets but I forgot...)
-find out why the top of the oil filter had some black sludge on it


Apart from that, I'm still struggling with setting up the suspension. Could anyone (with the r6 fork, stock) share their setup, weigh and riding style?


PS: could a moderator change the title to "Bike log- error 33, engine rebuild & misc" or something. Out of what now turned to 43 pages, only maybe 10% of that is related to the error 33 issue.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sludge sounds like it may be chain lube "fling off".