engine rpm + shifting

[JJFRANKIS]

I have a question about engine rpm's and when you should be shifting. I have never ridden a bike with such a high redline, but have been told by friends that the 7-10k rpm range is the ideal spot for shifting. The problem is that seems to high because I am going too fast at these rpm's. At what rpm should I be shifting for each gear?

 

[HavBlue]

Try this....

http://www.600riders.com/forum/track-tech-riding-techniques/3089-what-rpm.html

 

[Hellgate]

My .02 cents, it depends on the type of riding you are doing. For instance, in rush hour traffic I'm lucky to get over 50 mph, I lazily shift at 4500 to 5500, down to 3,000. When I'm riding the twisties, I shift at 10,500 to 12,500, with a goal of not dropping below 8,000. I typically don't go over 12K as the power seems to begin dropping off beyond 12,500 or so. Just because an engine will turn 14K doesn't mean it keeps making power to that point. Redline is close to the limit of the beginning of valve float and serious power drop off will begin.

 

[HavBlue]

The reason you go above the HP peak is to remain at that peak when you pick up the next gear and here is where shift lights come into play as you no longer have to be concerned with it. The use of a shift light will keep you at that peak HP each time you shift and there will likely never be an error unless you miss that shift. I agree there is no reason to be at that readline but there is every reason to be above the peak horsepower rpm of 12,500 until you hit top gear. If you are looking to hit peak torque 10.500 the same would hold true as you will have to exceed that mark to hit it when picking up the next gear.

To me, riding involves some forms of passive aggression and a rider must have the ability to be defensive as well as offensive at any given moment. Allowing the FZ6 to get outside (low) any reasonable power band simply leaves the rider less options if in fact he does need to get the heck out of there. The FZ6 can operate comfortable in any gear between 5,000 and 7,500rpm all day long hence the reason I don't upshift at anything less than 5,000rpm. That said, I can pull the trigger at any time without the needed time to downshift. All it takes is a twist of the wrist and I am out of here.....

 

[JJFRANKIS]

THANKS FOR THE LINK, I AM AMAZED ABOUT HOW MUCH GOOD INFORMATION IS ON THIS FORUM..:Sport:

 

[reiobard]

we do our best :thumbup:

Best advise i have is to shift when it feels right to you, the higher RPM shifting will come when you get into a situation that needs it.

 

[HavBlue]

we do our best :thumbup:

Best advise i have is to shift when it feels right to you, the higher RPM shifting will come when you get into a situation that needs it.

Good point, one problem, if it isn't something you have practiced and accomplished the chances for you to miss that shift when you really need to make it go way up. If the engine were already primed and at the ready there wouldn't be the need for a shift. A rider is safest when all advantages are in place.

I agree a rider must ride in a manner that feels right to him/her but this doesn't always go along with good safe riding habits and leaving yourself vulnerable is not a good option.

 

[outkast]

I tend to run the bike at around 5k revs ,this keeps it just below the power band ,so a flick of the wrist and you either off down the road or out of trouble.I tend to use 2nd-3rd gear in town and rareley use 6th mostly duel carriageways and motorways.
Ive twice hit the rev limiter when accellerating hard in 2nd and 3rd it seems to kick in earlier than the red line.its a hard reving engine so i use it .

 

[HavBlue]

I tend to run the bike at around 5k revs ,this keeps it just below the power band ,so a flick of the wrist and you either off down the road or out of trouble.I tend to use 2nd-3rd gear in town and rarely use 6th mostly duel carriageways and motorways.

Keep it wound up at it's ready for just about anything.

 

[outkast]

You got that right.