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New, the front sprocket doesn't have the indentations. As it wears it developes them.To TownsendsFJR1300- So just slight dents in the plastic part of the sprocket are still ok? I mean I had to look really close to notice them. You seem toi be a helpful guyso may I ask you for another favor? I just tried to reproduce the clunk sound during my ride and at 1,2,3 gear at lower than 3000 rpm sudden closing and reopening the throttle causes the sound. Would you be so kind and try the same at yours, pls?
I can tell you right now it does NOT clunk when you get on or off the throttle at ANY RPM's in any gear. Its rare I take it over 8,000 RPM's, most of my shifting (short of horse play is at about 4K, lower when cold). My engine (not the exhaust) is very quiet, no ticking, etc un-like some other members. Why, dunno.
Re down shifting, I don't normally "clutch/downshift/release clutch" and see the RPM's rise. IMO, its just extra wear and tear on the clutch plates. As I slow, I am down shifting, with the clutch in, as the speed slows.
For starting (especially cold), I'll squeeze and release the clutch several times to get some oil inbetween the plates. Then, if you hold in the clutch for a couple of seconds, it makes shifting into first NOT quite as clunky.
With that said, I keep my idle set at 1,000 RPM's (under the recommended 1,300). Three reasons, I prefer the sound of the engine lower, I have a very slight vib thru my right mirror at 1,300RPM, and shifting into first is definitily not as hard on the box as the gear shafts aren't turning as fast. I don't sit and idle long and have never had a charging issue, that's with the BD43 dual headlight mod too...
The first Generation of FJRs 03-05 had the same characteristics as the FZ, shifting, clunking into first, etc. They did some mods to help that, but still for the most part, its still there. Alot of the shifting issues, clunking, (for the FJR, even to date), Yamaha was NOT soaking the clutch plates prior to assembly and they tended to stick together causing un-necessary clutch sticking and very rough shifts. (same set up as the FZ). The fix was simply, remove the plates, remove the unknown black crap from the plates, and then soak them in oil for a couple of hours. Re-assemble and its a different bike altogether..
Re Randy's post on the clutch basket. I have personally seen on my ex girlfriends 650 Suzuki Savage and a friends Sportster, (both belt drive, both an aluminum "sprocket", both held down tightly with a steel nut-like the FZ clutch basket). I noticed the Savage making an odd noise when moving around the garage slowly. Pulled the side cover, looked fine. Peened the locking washer over and sure enough, the "sprocket" was loose. What happened, between the pressure from the belt pulling on the aluminum, up against the steel nut, the aluminum eventually compressed, thus the torque on the nut lowered and the "sprocket" began wobbling. Tightened her back down, fine after that. I also noticed (years ago), the same noise on my friends Sportster. He said it was fine, didn't want to check it. Went to the Dragon on vacation, (SR129 in Tennessee), guess who looses a transmission in the middle of it. The sportster. Go back to the cabin, get the truck, come back and get him and his bike, 5 hours later were back in the cabin. After we got home, start tearing apart, guess what. Same issue as the Suzuki except of course it was never tightened. It stripped ALL the splines off the "sprocket". Output shaft was fine.
Point being, don't just look at it from afar, check the tightness, any wear and tear where it would secure is critical.
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