electrical work for dummies

[DavidG-757]

figured i would use my resources before starting a project that involves something i dont have much experience in. i will putting in a fuse block probably under my seat so that i can run different things while riding like gps, phone charger or any other thing i can come up with, maybe additional riding lights if i choose to. i figure that way i can run the wires to my battery and 1 to ground and be able to power anything off of that and each will have its own fuse. i have an idea of how to do it, but if anyone else has done something similar or has any other words of advice i am open to suggestions. i got the idea from a friend who had a vstrom with a similar setup. seeemed like a good idea. thanks everyone.

 

[Motogiro]

I think it was Fred, a forum member here that did a fuse block and distribution for his bike. Looked very neat. You might want to run it all fused and switched through a relay that kills those accessories when the engine is off or split it so that some are always powered at all times and some are switched.

 

[turbid]

but will the alternator or whatever its called handle the extra load? every one complains that the charging system on the 6 is weak

 

[DDS]

Rectifier

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Rectifier

Umm... the alternator has one, yes. Every alternator has one, as it would put out AC otherwise... BTW an alternator is a generator with a built-in rectifier.

As far as if the system will handle it, it all depends on what you're adding. Adding in a GPS, a phone charger, and your charger for your iPod probably isn't a huge deal. Wanting to add in a full set of heated gear, and run a dual-headlight HID set up... not so much. Although with a HID setup and a jacket and gloves you'd probably be okay. I'd use a battery tender though.

And like Moto said, run the power for the block straight from the battery and use a relay that's switched by something like your headlights or running lights. I'd try the headlights first personally.

 

[GTPAddict]

The rectifier is actually part of the generator (alternator).

I took a MSF class this past weekend and had an issue with the battery getting weak enough where I had to roll start the bike. In the morning, there were a lot of low speed maneuvers where the RPM stayed very low for most of the morning. Combined with the multiple starts and running both headlights, the battery got weak. I rode the bike around at regular road speeds during lunch, keeping the RPM up, and disconnected the headlights for the rest of the parking lot exercises and had no problems the rest of the day.

 

[ChevyFazer]

If you want to put some extra lights on the bike make sure they are hid, they pull a whole lot less apmrage. I had just one auxiliary driving light (not hid) mounted on my bike and it sucked a whole lot of juice, if that was the only thing you added it might be alright but with other things hooked up as well I would steer away from ot because it will definitely lead to a dead battery sometime down the road

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Mine draw 37W a piece once stable. Not a huge jump, but better than the 55w bulbs that are stock.

 

[Motogiro]

but will the alternator or whatever its called handle the extra load? every one complains that the charging system on the 6 is weak

It depends on what amount of current you're drawing and what RPM the engine is at. You can easily charge your cell phone and run your GPS and other small devices at the same time. They don't add up to much current draw but grip heaters and additional lights may be a different story as far as current draw. The FZ6 does not have that much additional wattage to give so you must be resourceful in your management of how you use these devices.
For example: If I were using grip heaters commuting to work I might switch them off the last few minutes to allow the charging system to easily top off the battery before I reach my destination.

So yes it is safe to add accessories to your FZ6 as long as you properly install, fuse and manage your power usage.

 

[Motogiro]

And like Moto said, run the power for the block straight from the battery and use a relay that's switched by something like your headlights or running lights. I'd try the headlights first personally.

Keep in mind that some low beam circuits may be turned off when the high beam is activated so the running light circuit might be a recommended choice to control your accessory relay.

 

[FinalImpact]

Without getting too technical; Generators are basically DC motors with armatures and brushes able to handle allot of current and produce DC (direct current) directly. The current produced by the armature windings is commuted through the carbon brushes which wear faster as the current demand increases (not so efficient). It outputs DC voltage and a regulator is required to maintain voltage output. Spinning this device make some power at any speed.

An Alternator as the name implies makes AC (Alternating Current). To make this energy useful you need a rectifier to convert the sinusoidal AC ouput DC. These can be internal or external. You also need a voltage regulator to control the voltage output.

Unlike the DC generator - an alternator requires a small amount of energy to energize the stator electromagnets before it can produce AC output. Hence the reason a completely dead battery may not get a charging system back to charging just by spinning it. They usually need a 4 to 6 volts but not much current to make a magnetic field which allows the alternator to come on line and produce energy.

Anyway - In this case, the stator spins, small brushes feed it a tiny amount of DC energy and it becomes a spinning magnet. The magnet spins through the field coils which make AC current. Diodes are usually in close proximity to the field coils and convert the AC power into DC. Because the field coils are making the energy, output is not fed through brushes and they are much more efficient than DC generators.

OK - As you were. . . .

Fit your FZ with efficient lighting devices and if grip heaters, heated vests, and added lights are part of your plan. Look at the total wattage and figure you can't run them all at once!

 

[FB400]

I've been thinking of doing the same to my FZ. I was trolling around the web last weekend and found this diagram. I think this is what you want to do.

 

[GTPAddict]

FinalImpact: Very well written explanation, thank you.

 

[DavidG-757]

excellent input, and most of which i had not really considered. so, thanks for all the input. i'll see how it all works out for me.

 

[Reed]

I've been thinking of doing the same to my FZ. I was trolling around the web last weekend and found this diagram. I think this is what you want to do.

I have never understood a distribution block. Can any one here help me undertand if there are any benefits to a distribution block compared a fuse block. From the diagram it looks like you would only put one fuse in line, but I am guessing that you would also put a fuse going to each item too. I am guessing that a fuse block would be more organized and just a better option.

 

[Motogiro]

I have never understood a distribution block. Can any one here help me undertand if there are any benefits to a distribution block compared a fuse block. From the diagram it looks like you would only put one fuse in line, but I am guessing that you would also put a fuse going to each item too. I am guessing that a fuse block would be more organized and just a better option.

The distribution block would just be a device that has additional power points to add circuits. It would usually have one feed but can have more. Any feed would be fuse rated at a specific current to limit current through the supply line or distribution block for a safe value. The devices running from the block would then have their own individual fuses.

You could use a fuse block that would have multiple feeds and fused outputs but it would be more expensive and bulkier. Not easy in the tighter spaces of a motorcycle.

I make accessory power relays. (I'm about to do a write-up) They're compact and can be easily tucked into a small space. The connections are not attached using spade connector but are instead soldered and silicone with shrink tube insulated, to be extremely rugged and weather proof. It's fused with an inline fuse for the relay's contacts current limit.

 

[Reed]

Thank you MotoGiro.

I might be interested in your relay set up. I will keep an eye out for your right up.

 

[FinalImpact]

The distribution block would just be a device that has additional power points to add circuits. It would usually have one feed but can have more. Any feed would be fuse rated at a specific current to limit current through the supply line or distribution block for a safe value. The devices running from the block would then have their own individual fuses.

You could use a fuse block that would have multiple feeds and fused outputs but it would be more expensive and bulkier. Not easy in the tighter spaces of a motorcycle.

I make accessory power relays. (I'm about to do a write-up) They're compact and can be easily tucked into a small space. The connections are not attached using spade connector but are instead soldered and silicone with shrink tube insulated, to be extremely rugged and weather proof. It's fused with an inline fuse for the relay's contacts current limit.

With everything going USB, a 12v to USB output would be pretty handy for some. The output is usually 0.5A so it might need a .6 or .7A fuse.

Motogiro = 1 stop shopping for your electrical needs. . .