Electrical help...

[maxpower3]

I just installed a FE kit on my 2008 FZ6. Here's my situation, followed by my question:

I removed the factory rear fender unit, and cut the factory wires to each of the 2 big orange rear blinkers, as well as the plate light. I then removed about an inch of the black tubing on each of the 3 factory wiring bundles, and stripped the brown and black coating off the end of the 2 wires in each bundle. This left a small amount of copper wire exposed on each wire.

Then, I had the aftermarket LED turn signal wires, which were coated yellow and black except for a small metal "connector" at the end of each wire. Basically, the "connector" looked like this:

http://usih.merchantrunglobal.com/I...03&MerchantID=2846&ImageID=104&DisplaySize=-1

Here's my question: I slipped each of the factory wires into the corresponding LED's "connector," so the blinkers flash and work. However, how am I supposed to permanently attach the factory wires to these connectors? Am I just supposed to slide the factory wires into the connectors and then cover each with electrical tape? Or should I crimp the "connector" so the factory wire can't come loose, and then cover it all with electrical tape? Or something else entirely?

If you haven't guessed, I'm not electrically inclined. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Wolfman]

My suggestion is to go down the hardware shop and buy some new connectors, possibly the ones that you just need to crimp to clamp the wires in the connector, and re-do all your connectors, or just get some connectors to put on the end of your aftermarket items wiring, that match the OEM connectors...

If you just tape them, you will get grief from it later on.

:thumbup:

 

[Wavex]

What Wolfman says... I personally would simply cut the LED connectors off and solder them directly on the OEM wires, and then finish the job with electrical tape, but that's just because I am lazy to get a set of male/female connectors

 

[maxpower3]

Thanks for the advice.

So you're saying to either get this type of setup:

File:Kabelschuh verschiedene commons.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Mine looks like the gold connector with blue wiring on the far right)

Or one of these things:

http://www.hhodevelopment.com/hhoinstall_files/image014.jpg

(I don't even know what this thing is called? Any help?)

I'd rather use the latter device, since I've used it before and it seemed easy. What is it called?

 

[coursonap]

Thanks for the advice.

So you're saying to either get this type of setup:

File:Kabelschuh verschiedene commons.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Mine looks like the gold connector with blue wiring on the far right)

Or one of these things:

http://www.hhodevelopment.com/hhoinstall_files/image014.jpg

(I don't even know what this thing is called? Any help?)

I'd rather use the latter device, since I've used it before and it seemed easy. What is it called?

Don't use the second one!!!! That is called a scotch lock. It just pierces the insulation and makes a place for water to get in and start corossion of the wires. if you have already cut the factory connectors off, I would use some tyoe of bullet connector with a moister cover on it. Like a weather proof bullet terminal you can find at auto zone it protects from moisture but if you ever have to take your stuff back apart you can just unplug it and not have to cut wires again.

 

[maxpower3]

I'm assuming this is a bullet connector:

Bullet Connectors - All Battery Sales and Service

I have a few questions about this:

So I'm going to need 2 of these for each wire -- a male and a female end?

Where do I buy these? Does it matter what size I get? (or are there even dirrect sizes?)

How do the wires fasten into each end of the bullet?

 

[afpreppie04]

Did you cut the factory connector off on the wiring harness side or the turn signal side? When I installed mine I cut it off on the turn signal side so I could then solder the new turn signal wire onto the Yamaha connector and keep it plug and play.

 

[maxpower3]

Alright guys, I'm about to give up.

The pictures below show where I'm at with this. I've basically got everything assembled, but I just haven't attached anything yet wiring-wise. And I'm afraid that when I do, the wiring is all going to be very noticeable.

I think I screwed up because I can't fit the LED wires through to top of the FE. So, you'll notice I pulled the motorcycle's blinker wiring bundle through the top of the FE.

I tried some 14-16 gauge bullet connectors from Pep Boys, but I found out those seemed way to big. The wires kind of just fell out of them or held on very loosely.

Any help? Please?

 

[Fred]

I tried some 14-16 gauge bullet connectors from Pep Boys, but I found out those seemed way to big. The wires kind of just fell out of them or held on very loosely.

Any help? Please?

First question. You did crimp the connectors, right? With an actual crimping tool?

If not, I found the problem.

Aside from that, I suggest learning to solder. Crimp connectors, unless you buy really good ones, generally suck. But if you solder them, they will last forever.

Fred

 

[urbanj]

I use butt connectors all the time but only the heat shrink variety. when done properly they will hold up well. The biggest problem i see is using bad crimpers. if you used one from lets say snap-on you'll tell right away how much better the connection is. also after you connect it give it a nice hard steady tug. it shouldnt come out or get loose.

Caterpillar I believe has a 10lbs tug test spec on all their connections. something to think about.

 

[maxpower3]

I crimped the male and female ends using a crimping tool, which is cheap and sucks. I know that if I would've tugged on the wire with 10 lbs. worth of force, they would've slipped out.

I guess I'll figure out how to solder. Never done that before. Besides a soldering iron, what will I need?

 

[wrightme43]

Solder is best, though I normally use crimp connectors. I use very specific crimp connectors though. Marine grade with the built in heat shrink and the glue that melts around the wire and seals it permantly. I also use a very good crimping tool. Channellock makes a great one for sale at Lowes. I use that type of connector because it is easy to make a disconnectable fitting. I always set them up so that in the future the male and female are on opposite polarity so that I dont have to think when I go to plug things back together.

Here is the deal man. The best way for you to do things will come with experince. Understand that you will mess up and make mistakes and that how you recover is the real test of a repair. Over time you will become very adept at making things if you stick with it.

 

[afpreppie04]

Aside from a soldering iron, you'll need solder D) and you can use flux if you want, but its not necessary. I would also recommend some heatshrink tubing to cover the solder joint, though electrical tape can work in a pinch.

 

[Fred]

Rosin core solder. Don't use acid core, as it's only meant for plumbing.

Some tinning flux is handy for thicker wires.

Wire strippers.

Heat shrink tubing.

One of these is great for holding the wires while you solder them.

And practice on scrap wire before you do your bike.. There are probably videos on youtube that'll teach you how.

Lastly, when you go to solder the turn signal connectors, why do it on the bike? Remove the left side panel and you can unplug the wires to the turn signals. Take the signals and wire off and fix them at a table where you can do a better job.

Fred

 

[alanrim]

and when you are finished do not use normal electrical tape...

Instead get self amalgamating tape, as the name suggests the tape amalgamates into itself, so after a few days only way to get it off is to cut it off.

Self amalgamating tape is the stuff the car and bike factories use for work such as this.

 

[urbanj]

Take it for what its worth but it's pretty much industry standard now to not solder. It wicks up the wire and makes it stiff which can/does lead to breaking under vibration and flexing. No oem solders connections that i see. It just has to be done right using a quality crimper and connectors.

Duetsch connectors, probably the best out there, do not use solder. they are expensive and the crimpers alone can be $150-$400ish but it's what is used in a lot of HD applications which can be the harshest out there.

pick up something like this and crimp away
PWC30, Pliers, Terminal Crimping, 10 1/4"

 

[afpreppie04]

This is what I was told in my Automotive training as well. The problem is that while good crimps and connections are better, the majority of people don't have good crimpers or connectors, and with bad stuff you get bad results. Like you show here, good crimpers are not cheap, whereas you can just go to Radio Shack and get everything to solder a few wires for under $20. It may not be OEM quality, but what is the likelihood that a proper solder joint will break before the bike is wrecked/sold/etc.?

 

[Iethius]

Here is the deal man. The best way for you to do things will come with experience. Understand that you will mess up and make mistakes and that how you recover is the real test of a repair. Over time you will become very adept at making things if you stick with it.

Totally, think of what you are good at, probably were not born that way, takes many mistakes and successes to be really good at something I think.
When I am working on my Fizzer and feel like kicking it over because my fat thumbs won't work right, I try to remember that it is my happy place in the garage, and my Fizzer loves me, but my thumbs are conspiring against me again..
Anyway, however you get it done is ok as long as it works and you are happy with it, you can always upgrade your work later after thinking about it or seeing what someone else did.

I personally would take the parts off to the bench and solder the connections, wrap them in electrical tape or shrink wrap.
Connectors wrapped in tape or shrink wrap work good too.
I use both depending where the work is.
I squeeze my connectors with channel locks, matching the gauge of wire and connector incorrectly is usually the source of loose connections. 18 ga wire= 18 ga connector. Wrapping in tape will keep the connectors from wiggling loose usually. The trick to electrical tape is to stretch it just a bit when wrapping it, makes a seal, if you do it right it looks just like a factory harness, pretty much.

You don't need to spend a bunch of money on tools, I picked up a soldering pen at the $1.00 store, no joke, one dollar, rosin core solder with flux in it at the hardware store, $2, box of multiple connectors at shucks 5.99.
Used them to install pod lights, used solder, connectors, and tape.
Watch for the thread. Good luck, breathe, happy place.....

 

[04fizzer]

Don't use the second one!!!! That is called a scotch lock. It just pierces the insulation and makes a place for water to get in and start corossion of the wires. if you have already cut the factory connectors off, I would use some tyoe of bullet connector with a moister cover on it. Like a weather proof bullet terminal you can find at auto zone it protects from moisture but if you ever have to take your stuff back apart you can just unplug it and not have to cut wires again.

I hate those solderless connectors.

I'm a solder and shrink wrap guy, myself.