Dyno with Stock and 15t front sprocket

[newfz6]

Does anyone have a dyno chart for the Stock FZ6 and one with the 15t front sprocket mod (atleast I think it is the 15t sprocket)?

 

[pookamatic]

I don't, but I think all you really need is a stock graph and the diameter of each. From there it's just math, right?

 

[FrozenBiker]

Does anyone have a dyno chart for the Stock FZ6 and one with the 15t front sprocket mod (atleast I think it is the 15t sprocket)?

Yessir, 15t is what most people go with when changing from stock. I'm liking the 15 a lot.
It isn't a huge difference, but just enough to make the bike more fun :thumbup:

 

[FB400]

a ~$25 mod. the Bike will accelerate awesome!! Just do it.

 

[gocartone]

Re-gearing adds 0 horsepower, no need to dyno. It makes the bike quicker by staying in the power band better between shifts.

 

[Kazza]

I haven't dyno'd my bike but I absolutely LOVE my 15t mod

 

[KingY]

I must be like satan but i gone 17t and i love how it rides on the street. Granted you loose a tiny bit of power on the get go, the gears drag on for longer and the power band seems to be longer, so when dragging out a gear it just keeps pulling all the way to the next gear.

I will test out the 15t though to see how it rides

 

[Marthy]

Re-gearing adds 0 horsepower, no need to dyno. It makes the bike quicker by staying in the power band better between shifts.

I was wondering...LOL I'm short of 20HP Anyone can tell me how many HP per tooth? :BLAA:

 

[pookamatic]

Re-gearing adds 0 horsepower

Well, yes, that's true but the dyno graphs will be different, RPM vs RPM, at the wheel. Slightly more torque going to the ground at a slightly lower RPM.

I imagine the graph will look identical, just shifted up.

 

[FrozenBiker]

I must be like satan but i gone 17t and i love how it rides on the street. Granted you loose a tiny bit of power on the get go, the gears drag on for longer and the power band seems to be longer, so when dragging out a gear it just keeps pulling all the way to the next gear.

I will test out the 15t though to see how it rides

Save a little gas when cruising on the highway too. I used a 17t for about 1000 miles on the first year of ownership.
Went back to 16t, then the 15t.

 

[gocartone]

Well, yes, that's true but the dyno graphs will be different, RPM vs RPM, at the wheel. Slightly more torque going to the ground at a slightly lower RPM.

I imagine the graph will look identical, just shifted up.

Not true. The graph/horsepower will change slightly (~1%, nothing noticeable) do to gearing, only because of the way a dyno calculates power. Where the power is made won't shift, unless the dyno is giving you power based on MPH instead of RPM.

 

[Cortez]

I must be like satan but i gone 17t and i love how it rides on the street. Granted you loose a tiny bit of power on the get go, the gears drag on for longer and the power band seems to be longer, so when dragging out a gear it just keeps pulling all the way to the next gear.

I will test out the 15t though to see how it rides

+1

I'm going for 17t too.
Did it on my last bike too.

 

[outasight20]

Another vote for the 17T. Better fuel economy and longer gears makes the bike feel like it pulls through more of the rev range and requires less shifting.

 

[Motogiro]

Torque graph will show differently.... Torque vs. time... If you change the sprockets to a different ratio you're changing when it occurs in time. This would effect where you see torque vs rwhp. These measurements are plotted against revolutions per minute.
If we increase the resolution of the chart we would see the difference. The bike will get to speed quicker but loose top end.