Difference in these bars....?

bricksrheavy

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Went the XJ6 handlebar route - as seen in the pic the sweep is slightly smaller making them a lot more comfortable for me, you also get a slightly more forward riding position (not necessarily bad but worth noting).
 

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The Big E

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That might be some kind of record, replying to an 11 year old thread!

FZ1 bars are excellent, IMO...with up and back risers of course. The wrist angle of the stock FZ6 bars was my issue, just not natural at all. The FZ1 bars solve that, but then you're leaning too far forward, as you noticed. Throw on the up/back risers. Problem solved. (Can be found on eBay among other sites).
I've since moved on to new bars, however, to get me sitting even more upright with no weight on my arms. Link below. Same wrist angle as FZ1 bars but swept back more like the stock FZ6 bars.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050HC39E/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_4q48Eb8MVX0D9
Ha ha , I just became a member on this site and did not look at dates, either way thanks for the link, cheers
 

MattR302

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The FZ6R handlebar has the same wrist angle as the FZ1 handlebar, with the same rise as the FZ6 handlebar. Being a Yamaha OEM bar, it also accepts the same bar-ends as the FZ6.

I wanted a little more comfort but didn’t want to use riders. I found that a handlebar from a Kawasaki Bayou 220 ATV was perfect for me. It fit with very minor mods. It’s in the pic below. (I sold the FZ6, but that same handlebar is now currently on my Honda 919)
CF86DB98-5FCD-4428-B5EC-BD4C3E515DED.jpeg
 

Canadian_fz6_guy

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That might be some kind of record, replying to an 11 year old thread!

FZ1 bars are excellent, IMO...with up and back risers of course. The wrist angle of the stock FZ6 bars was my issue, just not natural at all. The FZ1 bars solve that, but then you're leaning too far forward, as you noticed. Throw on the up/back risers. Problem solved. (Can be found on eBay among other sites).
I've since moved on to new bars, however, to get me sitting even more upright with no weight on my arms. Link below. Same wrist angle as FZ1 bars but swept back more like the stock FZ6 bars.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050HC39E/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_4q48Eb8MVX0D9
Hey. How’s the vibrations on emgo bars? (If you still have the bike)
 

Canadian_fz6_guy

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Funny story, sold the bike…and a year later bought it back.
No vibes in the bars to speak of, but I have HVMP heavy bar ends. No idea what vibes would be like without them.
Hmm. Ok. I wonder which one would be better out of euro and superbike
Specs in the bikes attached.
Pretty close. I think just the bars may not be enough to get the upright sitting positon that’s why I might get the pivoting risers by ROX. They aren’t cheap. But if it makes the ride great. It’ll be worth it. I started another thread to see if anyone else did it.
 

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Ohendo

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Hmm. Ok. I wonder which one would be better out of euro and superbike
Specs in the bikes attached.
Pretty close. I think just the bars may not be enough to get the upright sitting positon that’s why I might get the pivoting risers by ROX. They aren’t cheap. But if it makes the ride great. It’ll be worth it. I started another thread to see if anyone else did it.
Have heard great things about Rox risers. They are expensive, hence reason I just went with the inexpensive 1” up/1” back fixed risers. Advantage of Rox is you can pivot to whatever angle you like.
 

Canadian_fz6_guy

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Have heard great things about Rox risers. They are expensive, hence reason I just went with the inexpensive 1” up/1” back fixed risers. Advantage of Rox is you can pivot to whatever angle you like.
So 1 up. 1 back. With superbike handlebars was just right for you?
I’m 6’1. Reach is far enough lol.
I’ll get one of the 2 I guess probably.
 

Ohendo

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Just got my risers and handlebars in the mail today. (Same as yours) Hopefully doing the change tomorrow. Did you have to take the fairing off and route wires and hoses or just straight up switch?
No faring removal…And no cable changes. (But I have aftermarket brake lines, might be a little bit longer than stock)…can’t be 100% positive you won’t have to make some minor cable routing adjustments.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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You may have to re-clock the front brake line just slightly.

Just crack the bolt slightly loose, turn slightly and re-tighten.

As stated above, no cable re-routing is required.

.

.
 

Canadian_fz6_guy

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Hey. Finally done all the work on the bar change. Bar ends. And sync.
I’ll attach pics along with my story lol
Switched the bars to emgo superbike. Had to grind and make smooth for throttle. Had to take the fairing off and reroute some electrical and brake cable. Because I went 1 up 1 back I didn’t need to change anything but I am at the max length. Any other modifications I’d need a new brake cable. Took a while but it worked. My bike had nice bar ends and a throttle lock. But the threaded part inside couldn’t come out and I wanted to keep those. So I had to grind/cut the bars and got them out. Put them in the new bars. I drilled holes in the bars and added some tack welds in there. Grind flush and now they are in there solid and the bars now flush with grips and throttle. They look pretty wide. Tomorrow will be my first road trip so it’ll get a good test. (Note, I used it around town with the new bars without bar ends. My wrists didn’t get numb from the angle and the ride was comfy. But my hands kinda did go numb due to the frequency or slight vibrations. So I bought a carbtune pro *not cheap* and synced the throttle bodies. #4 was off. All seems fine now. Adjusted at idle. And stayed ok at 4000rpm)
Hopefully tomorrow goes well
 

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