Custom integrated tail light, member made!

[Numpty]

I'd want a simpler (and a bit cheaper) version that was just all red LEDs. Then It could be used with a clear or smoke cover and would draw a lot less power than the stock bulb and hopefully be brighter. What do you think about doing second, simpler option too? I assume you'd just be selling the board with LEDs etc that we can fit into our stock housing yes?

Cheers

I would be interested in the LED board version that fits into the stock housing too .:thumbup:

 

[scoobydrvr]

Got the board designed. I also noticed there's some competition on the boards too, I'm not sure I'll be able to compete with the price, I suppose it depends on how much I can get the boards printed for.

Here's a rendering:
View attachment 16762

 

[victorb]

Subscribed.

I have a scratched up red taillight lens that I can send you for the cost of shipping if you don't want to take your lens off every time you test the fit. PM me if interested.

 

[scoobydrvr]

Got the LEDs in today, here's some comparison photos. The row above the bright colored spots are standard-brightness LEDs, similar to those used for status lights such as power indicators. The bottom row of lights are the high-intensity units I'll be using. The photos were taken in a room with the lights off and an open window, mid-afternoon.
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This is a photo of the spot of light cast on the ceiling.
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Again with the ceiling.
View attachment 16791

I'm very pleased with the intensity of these diodes. The Red ones don't have as high of a viewing radius, but I'm sure that I can angle them around as I install them to give an even spread of light. I'll also get some photos in daylight too.

 

[alanrim]

Something to consider is vibration, I have just had an LED tail light bulb fail due to cracked solder joints after a few months service.

I would think surface mount LEDs and hot glue gun encapsulating may cure the vibration issues. At least consider holding each LED with a blob of hot glue.

 

[scoobydrvr]

Daylight pics.
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View attachment 16793

 

[scoobydrvr]

Something to consider is vibration, I have just had an LED tail light bulb fail due to cracked solder joints after a few months service.

I would think surface mount LEDs and hot glue gun encapsulating may cure the vibration issues. At least consider holding each LED with a blob of hot glue.

That's a pretty good idea. That will also allow me to "aim" the LEDs. Another factor could have been workmanship, however. A dirty soldering iron can transfer contamination and cause the joint to be weak or fail.

I do like the idea of attaching the board with hot glue though. I've been struggling with how to attach it within the housing, but I know where I want it attached. This way it could be removed, if it were to fail or no longer desired.

 

[alanrim]

The joints that failed are very well soldered, certainly not a dry joint problem. I think the designer hasn't considered vibration stresses as the tiny boards with three surface mount LEDs on each fitted into loose notches on the end pcb. The only fixing was the solder point at each end, which while substantial clearly couldn't withstand the stress.

I have a spare LED bulb which I plan on bonding the pcbs together, and to the end cap with hot glue as a test. Pretty sure it will work well as I often use hot glue for strengthening industrial electronic equipment I work on.

Hot glue is wonderful as it retains the elasticity of the glue sticks, bonds well, can be removed, and provides a water proof seal. I use it a lot as a potting compound as it is cheaper than epoxy type encapsulant, easier and cleaner to use. The liquid temperature is not usually an issue for most electronic components.

 

[scoobydrvr]

It's good to know that the hot glue won't affect the components or cause the board to be affected. I'll most likely be using it to attach the board to the housing, as mentioned before.

Now just to get the board printed!

 

[wke4estguy]

Now just to get the board printed!

I know you have probably already thought of this, but I have printed my own circuit boards before, and etched with them with Ferric Chloride.
It is super low tech, but:
1. you just print your design in reverse (using a laser printer, on photo paper) and then re insert the paper and print again over it. Do that until you get 4-5 layers of toner.
2. Put the design over a copper clad circuit board, and press down HARD with a super hot clothes iron for a minute or two.
3. Dissolve off the paper with water, peel away the excess paper, and your left with just the toner melted to the board.
4. Then, use the etchant solution to dissolve away the excess copper (the runs under the toner are preserved) then scrub off the toner, and you are left with a custom printed circuit board.

Alternatively you can use a Cricut computerized "cutting tool" and replace the cutter with an etch resistant pen. I have never done this but it seems like a super slick way to design your own PCBs.

Both of these methods would only allow a one layer board, but with careful layout, you should be able to do it with something like this.

Good luck with the project, I want one soon!

 

[scoobydrvr]

I know you have probably already thought of this, but I have printed my own circuit boards before, and etched with them with Ferric Chloride.
It is super low tech, but:
1. you just print your design in reverse (using a laser printer, on photo paper) and then re insert the paper and print again over it. Do that until you get 4-5 layers of toner.
2. Put the design over a copper clad circuit board, and press down HARD with a super hot clothes iron for a minute or two.
3. Dissolve off the paper with water, peel away the excess paper, and your left with just the toner melted to the board.
4. Then, use the etchant solution to dissolve away the excess copper (the runs under the toner are preserved) then scrub off the toner, and you are left with a custom printed circuit board.

Alternatively you can use a Cricut computerized "cutting tool" and replace the cutter with an etch resistant pen. I have never done this but it seems like a super slick way to design your own PCBs.

Both of these methods would only allow a one layer board, but with careful layout, you should be able to do it with something like this.

Good luck with the project, I want one soon!

I actually considered this, but the checkerboard pattern requires printing on both sides of the board. I bought all the stuff to do this and started my layout and then realized that I'd be trapping every other light if I didn't print on the other side. This lends itself to such a high chance of error, I decided to not give it a go.

I'm thinking I'll be able to afford getting a test board printed soon. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[scoobydrvr]

Okay, here's the skinny. I'm getting a board printed soon for a test/prototype. At my best current guess, it's going to be $50 a piece (give or take for shipping cost and misc pieces). That is figuring for a run of 5 boards. I had hoped the price might come down a little for making bigger runs, but it doesn't look like it will. I'll see if I can work out a deal with Oznium to get a break on LEDs for quantities greater than 200.

One thing I do need that I've been unable to find is a sort of rubber plug to go in the back of the housing to fill the hole left by the bulb. If anyone has any suggestions or knows where to find them, please let me know. If I can, I'd like to make this kit as complete as possible.

 

[scoobydrvr]

Go here... just do it!

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/18791-finally-custom-taillight.html