Cracked Frame...

[Knl3178]

I had a frame you could have had for free. It got collected with the kerb side collection last week. Wish I Had known. You're probably no worse off anyway. Once it's welded it should be good as new if the guy knows what he's doing. Could be an opportunity to do some engine mods. A nice cam perhaps


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[Mac fz6n]

I had a frame you could have had for free. It got collected with the kerb side collection last week. Wish I Had known. You're probably no worse off anyway. Once it's welded it should be good as new if the guy knows what he's doing. Could be an opportunity to do some engine mods. A nice cam perhaps

What colour was it? NO NO, I don't want to know :spank:, it's gone and I need to move on...

The guy going to do it is a very experienced welder and a long time rider :thumbup:

And I am taking the opportunity to do other repairs/upgrades while the bike is apart.
Only limit is funds at the moment (how much I can sneak past the wife).

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[Mac fz6n]

Well, time for an update.

I have finished stripping the bike.
I removed the subframe earlier in the week, and have been slowly undoing and removing the wiring/cables at night.

Today I removed the swing arm, the front end and controls.
I have just finished pulling the frame off the engine!

Now to get the frame welded!

I have new foot pegs, clutch/throttle cables, new levers (on the way) and new handle bars.
Hoping to replace brake lines, repair instrument panel (broken mount), replace swing arm bearings etc.

Next few weeks are clean and repair.
Then it's lego time, putting it all back together.

It's been a big job, and I've got a long way to go, but I've enjoyed it so far. :thumbup:

Thanks to this forum for all the great advice/info/tips which have helped plenty so far.

Cheers,
Mac.

:rtfm: :rtfm: :rtfm:

 

[Puttin Along]

I just bought an 05 FZ6 with 32k and there is a crack in almost the same spot! Owner said he never saw it before, which I find hard to believe! Got the bike a little cheaper though. It's a good idea to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to help deflect/disperse the spread. Gonna do this, then grind a groove over the crack and try to weld in place with out tear down. Will take pics and report back. Any other word on cause? Wheelies and coming down hard?

 

[georgerdp]

I've owned bike since 7k on the clock (now 80k), so I don't think it's ever been removed.


I haven't started to pull it apart yet, but I did have a quick check of the mounting bolts.

I found the lower rear bolt wasn't tight! (see attached)
Not about to fall out or anything, but definitely not to spec.

Guess that's part of the reason???

Anyway, going to pull it apart and try welding.

I'll do my best to record my progress and any more issues I find along the way.
Hope to take plenty of pics if anyone is interested.

Wish me luck...

Mac.

I found the lower rear bolt is not tight at mine as well , at all . Has a free play . I have checked after I read your post . Cheers . Hope you will sort out yours . About that bold should
be tight up all the way ? To maximum ?

 

[Mac fz6n]

I just bought an 05 FZ6 with 32k and there is a crack in almost the same spot! Owner said he never saw it before, which I find hard to believe! Got the bike a little cheaper though. It's a good idea to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to help deflect/disperse the spread. Gonna do this, then grind a groove over the crack and try to weld in place with out tear down. Will take pics and report back. Any other word on cause? Wheelies and coming down hard?

I would like to hear how you go welding in place.
I've already pulled mine apart, but would be good for anyone else who has this issue.

I don't wheelie or stunt, just commute weekdays and hit the mountains on the weekend.
I might lift the front under heavy acceleration, but it's only a few inches.

I believe the main cause is the loose engine bolt mentioned earlier.

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[Mac fz6n]

I found the lower rear bolt is not tight at mine as well , at all . Has a free play . I have checked after I read your post . Cheers . Hope you will sort out yours . About that bold should
be tight up all the way ? To maximum ?

Good to hear you found it before it cracked the frame (This forum is good for that)

I would torque the bolt as per manual (see attached - 2004 manual)

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[georgerdp]

Good to hear you found it before it cracked the frame (This forum is good for that)

I would torque the bolt as per manual (see attached - 2004 manual)

Cheers,
Mac.

I will get a torque wrench soon as shop is open . I am at work now so thanks to this forum again and to my free time at work .
I have seen is a lot of room in that bolt sleeve , the bolt has some up/down free play . should I untight all the bolts and to do like here (image)?

Or just the untight bold ?

Sorry if are silly questions , I have not much experience some of the things are new to me .

 

[Carlos840]

I will get a torque wrench soon as shop is open . I am at work now so thanks to this forum again and to my free time at work .
I have seen is a lot of room in that bolt sleeve , the bolt has some up/down free play . should I untight all the bolts and to do like here (image)?

Or just the untight bold ?

Sorry if are silly questions , I have not much experience some of the things are new to me .

I would check all the engine bolt and tighten them in the correct sequence shown in the page you posted.

I actually did it already on my bike after seeing this post and both self locking nuts on the right side were a smidge under the correct torque!

 

[Mac fz6n]

I would check all the engine bolt and tighten them in the correct sequence shown in the page you posted.

I actually did it already on my bike after seeing this post and both self locking nuts on the right side were a smidge under the correct torque!

I agree, it would be best to check all bolts and follow the sequence in the manual.


I'm glad to hear that a few people have read this thread and then checked their bikes :cheer:

I've done similar in the past, read a thread/story, then checked it out myself.
It's the best part of this site (along with the great people who contribute).

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[FinalImpact]

See PM... [MENTION=25799]georgerdp[/MENTION] [MENTION=8083]Mac fz6n[/MENTION] [MENTION=24196]Carlos840[/MENTION]

Thanks and keep up the Good work!

 

[ChevyFazer]

More power to you man. You're doing it the right way I did it the easy way and it was still a birch. I just jacked my motor up, blocked the forks and started unbolting sh** but hey the frame survived 3 wrecks and a tango with a semi after I was done lol


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[Puttin Along]

Spoke with the owner of BREW Bikes LLC he said he will not weld it as I planned. He said if welded the aluminum in that area will go back to a temper of T-0 which will crack much faster. I suggested a torch silver solder to keep the heat down. He said that anything over 350 affects the aluminum and he will not touch it as it is a liability! = sad face! Gonna talk to another 2 welders for second opinions and other options. He would not comment on the safety as is. I still think I will drill at the end of the crack to disperse further stress.

 

[ChevyFazer]

Spoke with the owner of BREW Bikes LLC he said he will not weld it as I planned. He said if welded the aluminum in that area will go back to a temper of T-0 which will crack much faster. I suggested a torch silver solder to keep the heat down. He said that anything over 350 affects the aluminum and he will not touch it as it is a liability! = sad face! Gonna talk to another 2 welders for second opinions and other options. He would not comment on the safety as is. I still think I will drill at the end of the crack to disperse further stress.

At the time I welded mine I was working as a metallurgical plant and tempered mine after welding. The guy you talked to don't have a clue. After welding the welded area will become harder than the surrounding area and can and will cause embrittlement. Basicly since the welded area is harder than the surrounding area stress cracks can form around it since it is now way harder. Tempering the entire frame removes the embrittlement and basicly meshes the weld with the crystalline structure of the original material making your frame happy happy happy and stronger than original. If you have anymore questions pm me. I had a step by step process of how I did mine but I can't find my thread, if you can find it there's more info there

Also if you can find a local heat treating shop talk to them about doing a stress relieving temper on your frame after being welded and tell the welders you speak to that your going to do that afterwards so that will remove any liability on their part


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[Mac fz6n]

Spoke with the owner of BREW Bikes LLC he said he will not weld it as I planned. He said if welded the aluminum in that area will go back to a temper of T-0 which will crack much faster. I suggested a torch silver solder to keep the heat down. He said that anything over 350 affects the aluminum and he will not touch it as it is a liability! = sad face! Gonna talk to another 2 welders for second opinions and other options. He would not comment on the safety as is. I still think I will drill at the end of the crack to disperse further stress.

Sorry to hear you've got this issue.
When I first noticed my crack I could only find 3 recorded cases, seems there is lot more now.

My guy is going to weld and then heat treat the frame, guess you need to find someone who knows what their doing.

Good luck with it, keep us all informed how you go.

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[Puttin Along]

Well that's that!

 

[Mac fz6n]

Well that's that!

WOW, I see you did it without taking the bike apart!
Was it hard to do?


I'm interested to see how it goes opcorn:
Please keep us informed.

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[elus1ve]

After reading this thread, I went to verify the frame-engine bolts and the bottom one was slightly loose. It's a 2007 with 70,000Kms on it. I want to get a torque wrench to make sure I got it to specs as too rigid may not be a good thing either.

Thanks to you guys, I have probably avoided a major headache. So thanks!

 

[Mac fz6n]

After reading this thread, I went to verify the frame-engine bolts and the bottom one was slightly loose. It's a 2007 with 70,000Kms on it. I want to get a torque wrench to make sure I got it to specs as too rigid may not be a good thing either.

Thanks to you guys, I have probably avoided a major headache. So thanks!

I'm happy to hear this :thumbup:

I hope everyone reads this thread and checks their bike, this crack is happening more often and I believe it can be avoided.
Everyone who has contacted me about this has found the lower bolt is loose.

Thanks for your feedback.
Ride safe.

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[Mac fz6n]

Okay guys, got my frame back today :thumbup:

I'm really happy with what he's done, welded both sides and then welded a plate over the area to strengthen it.
Then heat treated the whole area.
All for $120

Now I just need to clean it up and paint it.

I can't put the bike back together yet, I'm still waiting for other parts to arrive.
Swingarm bearings, throttle/clutch cables, pazzo levers, radiator hoses, brake lines etc.

Cheers,
Mac.